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Welcome to the new PGCA Forum! As well, since it
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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
John D.
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It's a shame |
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01-28-2020, 12:31 PM
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#1
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Member
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Member Info
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 591
Thanks: 394
Thanked 968 Times in 224 Posts
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It's a shame
Working with relatives in a different part of my family to acquire (I mean buy) an AAHE 12ga. (1910) that's been blued...everywhere (skeleton butt plate, barrels, trigger guard, frame, you name it) except for the forend latch, trigger and grip plate which have all been gold plated. The stock has been varnished and checkering is in quite good condition. The gun has been in "our family" since 1916 and no one knows when the gun was blued, or whether it was hot blue or cold blue and all people that would have knowledge are now deceased. My questions are, can a blued gun be restored to factory finish? How can you tell if it's been hot blued or cold blued? If hot blued, has that process effected the metallurgical properties where the metal could not be restored to factory finish? I'd like to save this gun if it is salvageable and know it will be expensive to do so but it may be worthwhile. PGCA letter says the gun was returned for restocking in 1916 abut no other work shows up. Your thoughts please. Thanks.
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01-28-2020, 12:36 PM
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#2
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Member
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Member Info
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,960
Thanks: 1,811
Thanked 8,681 Times in 3,371 Posts
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bluing can always be redone-
the correct finish for the barrels is slow rust blue, not cold blue
the issue with hot bluing is the soft solder used to join the barrels, not the barrels themselves - it may, or possibly may not be compromised due to the heat used
this should be inspected by a qualified double gun smith
__________________
"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE
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The Following User Says Thank You to Rick Losey For Your Post:
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