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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
John D.
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Hammer gun load advice |
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04-05-2020, 01:55 PM
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#1
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Member
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Member Info
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 22 Times in 9 Posts
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Hammer gun load advice
New forum member here. After decades away from shotgunning experiences including hobby restorations, I recently bought a basket case top lever 12 on-line with the intent to have a fun shooter for occasional Skeet or a grouse hunt...maybe even as a Cowboy shooter. Fingers crossed the seller's description of modest pitting but shootable was accurate, I had some old 10 bore wads that I sanded down to 12 ga. and some Pyrodex RS for my BP rifle. I cut off a few AA hulls at the crimp, got a 3dr. 1 oz load to fit, and when the gun arrived, within an hour I was at the range. She went bang with no issues and the cyl. bores were in evidence with huge 10yd. patterns. So I ordered proper wads and began the restoration.
First surprise is chamber length. Visually minimal forcing cones, the chambers are smooth out to 2 3/4", but when using the depth gauge, the forcing cones are really like another 1/4" of chamber, just less polished, to a really minimal step up into the bore of less than the thickness of the plastic hull's wall thickness. Didn't give it much thought, so modified my load to fit a normal 2 3/4" hull and full crimped 1/2 dozen for another test. Not finished, but shootable, I drove to a private club and as a favor, they let me fire those 6 at station one Skeet. Hit 5 of 6 even dealing with a lot of drop-at-heel.
Got the gun looking right 'purty", and with a combo of hand powder dumping and my dusted off MEC loader, I loaded up several boxes (2 3/4dr. RS, 3/8ths wads, 1 oz. in a shot cup cut from a WW wad), drove back to that skeet range only to find the closed Covid-19 sign. Aargh! New gun, no place to shoot.
Basically wanting to learn more about the gun, I joined this forum 3 days ago. But the data here is overwhelming. Not only have I found no real ID info (top lever SN 48xxx) age? grade?; but information overload as I tried to follow the threads on safe low pressure loads. Surprises include constant references to factory brands with the posters assuming the reader knows of them, and how common it appears that the conventional wisdom of no damascus ever even with black is NOT on Parker guy's don't do it radar.
My gun appears to have been honed to "improve" the pitting, and reading the admonitions about wall thicknesses, but without plain info on details, I'm now nervous my gun might not be safe enough to shoot with confidence.
I assume my load is very low pressure (???), way less than the 8000 PSI smokeless threshold often cited. But...
My bores measure .734...trouble is without knowing what they might have been before, that doesn't define how much has been honed away.
And at the chamber end, lengthening the chamber forward AND honing the bore have removed most of the forcing cone. But I don't have an unaltered gun to stare down as a visual comparison.
The barrels ring like a tuning fork when struck. But otherwise, how do I know my gun is ok other than a long string and a proof load risk?
Advice? Help?
Thanks,
RickR
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Rick Rappe For Your Post:
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04-05-2020, 03:13 PM
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#2
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Member
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PGCA Invincible Life Member
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Member Info
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 34,044
Thanks: 41,328
Thanked 38,134 Times in 13,823 Posts
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Hello Rick -
First, please tell us what the whole serial number is and we can look it up in the Parker Gun Identification and Serialization book (if it is listed) and we can tell you some basics on how it left the factory.
A PGCA Research letter should complete the story of originality. But first and foremost, get the wall thickness measured at strategic points along the length, and circumferentially at those points as well, by a knowledgable and competent double gun expert.
Yes, a lot of us shoot modern powders in our composite barreled Parkers but we either buy low pressure ammo specifically made for these guns or we load our own to published low pressure loads.
Pictures of your gun would aid in the discussion.
.
__________________
"I'm a Setter man.
Not because I think they're better than the other breeds,
but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture."
George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic.
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