Damascus bbl protective coating

[Don Strelioff]

Should Damascus bbl’s have some type of sealant on the outside. Example lacquer or wax or varnish . Just curious I have a Parker with Damascus bbl’s I read somewhere about coating them . Just asking

[B. Dudley]

Same with case colors. Some put a coating on them some don’t.
Parker did not originally coat their metal finishes with any sort of protective coating. And some of the costs that people use can soften and flake off when used. I personally prefer to just keep things wiped down with oil and keep them natural.

[Don Strelioff]

Thanks for the info I don’t use a coating as such just oil on the metal and sometimes wax on the wood

[Harry Collins]

When I refinish Damascus and Twist barrels I wax them. The rational is this: during refinishing the barrels have been in a lot of water and to make sure there is none left under the ribs a heat gun is used to ensure dryness. If any moisture weeps from under the ribs the wax will keep it from ruining the finish. The wax on the barrels is then buffed.

[Breck Gorman]

Dale Edmunds recommended a hard carnauba wax. Bachelder recommended Watco Danish oil. Oscar Gaddy used a spray lacquer.
Renaissance Wax is not a good product on Damascus, and can obscure the pattern in my experience.
I’m with Harry. A Good hard wax protects, doesn’t get affected when it’s wiped with light gun oil, and doesn’t chip or yellow like lacquer or drying oils.

[Joe Wood]

I thoroughly degrease my barrels and then coat them with Formby’s satin finish ting oil. Wipes on easily and dries hard within a day. Does not flake and if it wears it it very easy to replace. Just use acetone to remove and redo. Almost as easy as cleaning a double. Really surprising how bright old, original Damascus finish can be. The finish has very little solid to it and flows easily, eliminating streaking and does not fill engraving.

[Bill Graham]

Originally Posted by Harry Collins

When I refinish Damascus and Twist barrels I wax them. The rational is this: during refinishing the barrels have been in a lot of water and to make sure there is none left under the ribs a heat gun is used to ensure dryness. If any moisture weeps from under the ribs the wax will keep it from ruining the finish. The wax on the barrels is then buffed.

That's what Dale Edmonds told me as well. The wax step is a nice insurance policy for surprise rib leaks. I use Renaissance Wax. Dale like clear Briwax.

[Bill Graham]

For a spray on, Mohawk makes a nice lacquer for brass, which is very clear and does not yellow over time as far as I can tell. Dries quickly, and levels well. You will get a nicer end result if you very lightly rub with 0000 after a few coats and before the final.

[Stan Hillis]

As I recall, Oscar used and recommended Behlen's spray lacquer. I'm just reporting, not recommending.

[Richard Flanders]

I use IBIZ pure carnauba wax. Got it from someone in Florida who imports it. Absolutely pure carnauba with no abrasive, assuming it hasn't changed. You put it on once and you're done. Amazing stuff. Just did a search; it's readily available now, far more than when I got mine.