Parker Questions

[Chris Montgomery]

Good morning,

I am starting the process of getting an idea of the backstory of Parker that has been passed down to me. I was able to run serial number (15787) and find that it was made in 1879. I am putting together the information to have a research request made, and need some help in trying to decipher the details about the gun and am seeking some help from you all if possible.

I believe this is a lifter type action, and straight grip, but after that I am not sure of the rest. Is this forend a splinter or beavertail? The butt (sorry no picture of that) is solid smooth metal, no wood exposed. Would that still be considered a skeleton, DHBP or Recoil Pad?

Also, I'm at a loss as how to remove the forend, which I believe is necessary for removing the barrels. Trying to get to the area where grade and steel type could be found. The barrel length is 28 inches.

At the end of the day, I am would like to get as much information on this as possible, and obviously also try get a general idea of what the value might be, so any suggestions from you all would be very appreciated.

Thanks very much for any help you can offer.

Best,
Chris Montgomery
Kitty Hawk, NC

[David Livesay]

I'm sure someone will respond to your questions soon that can better explain how to safely remove the fore end and barrels. By looking at your pictures the gun appears to a lower grade gun in nice condition.

[Harold Lee Pickens]

A well preserved lifter action. Nice gun. That is a splinter fore end that comes out by pushing on the little metal key" that goes thru the fore arm and thru a lug on the barrel to hold it in place.

[Dean Romig]

That type of splinter forend release is called a keyed forend latch. Tap on the smaller end of the key. it will not completely come out so don't force it but will come out far enough to remove the forend, then lift the forend from the barrels. Then release the lifter plunger and the barrels will rotate down and off the frame. The numbers and letters on the barrel flats and the water table of the frame is what will give most of the information on the gun.

The butt plate is a simple solid steel butt plate, not a skeleton steel or dog's head hard rubber butt plate.





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[Brian Dudley]

That is a nice gun. That is how you want to find them!

[Drew Hause]

Then gun may have Parker Bros. made Laminated Steel barrels.
Here is a recent thread of interest
https://parkerguns.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44948

When you get the barrel dismounted, please post a full size high resolution close up of a section of barrel where the contrast is most apparent, and look for the marks mentioned in the thread above just forward of the barrel flats.

[Dan Steingraber]

Looks like a beautiful survivor. Use a small piece of wood on the small end of the forearm key to push it out. As Dean said, it won’t come out completely but will go far enough to remove the forend. Be careful with that old girl. She has survived 147 years, don’t bugger her up now. Congratulations

[Jay Oliver]

I get some weird looks, but I always use a thin popsicle stick to work out a keyed forend.

It works though!

Quick Edit: That is a wonderful survivor Parker! I like it a lot!

In addition, it looks to be a non-checkered gun from the factory. I like that utilitarian look on a nice honest lifter.

[Chris Montgomery]

Great, information thanks so much to everyone for their input. Will take a look at that key and see if it will cooperate. I'm very hesitant as I obviously don't want to to anything stupid and cause irreparable harm. Will let you know what I am able to sort.

[Chris Montgomery]

Didn't have a popsicle stick, but a small wooded spoon did nicely and was easier than I anticipated.

[Chris Montgomery]

Some more pics. Looks like "M" 314 as referenced on that other thread for the weight and maker I'm guessing. Barrell shows it's Plain Twist, and the Grade location has "U" showing.

[Drew Hause]

Thanks Chris.
Not just the 'M' but also the Parker P in a diamond

https://photos.smugmug.com/Damascus/Parker/i-bQ5HPfN/0/NhBG56HTZDS6Tg3KvVqdJRFXChRkQ6kLfkJnvvPWk/L/1879%20Lifter%20M%20and%20diamond%20P-L.jpg (https://drewhause.smugmug.com/Damascus/Parker/i-bQ5HPfN/A)

I suspect the barrels were blued at some point, obscuring the original pattern which I don't believe to be Plain Twist.

[Chris Montgomery]

Okay thanks, it has plain twist stamped on barrel is why saying that.

[Drew Hause]

It could be Chris, but the ribband edge welds are not usually as prominent in Plain Twist

https://photos.smugmug.com/Damascus/Parker/i-PMnkwjP/0/KdNcr88hkSrTKRFg4CK5sLXhkpKnRD8XgKKLw5qbz/S/IMG_7428-S.jpg (https://drewhause.smugmug.com/Damascus/Parker/i-PMnkwjP/A)

[Chris Montgomery]

Okay thank you, and I totally missed the "P" in the diamond!

[Dean Romig]

Unfortunately, my barrels really have no definition but the markings are the same.


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[Drew Hause]

OTOH this is a Plain Twist marked c. 1880 lifter with the 'M' and clear ribband weld lines

https://photos.smugmug.com/Damascus/Parker/i-xxdkjrW/0/LtWf4NhFsBmDHKHbk7xmnGj7f2mqLLJw7XPQhTKCS/L/Plain%20Twist%20M%201880%20Lifter-L.jpg (https://drewhause.smugmug.com/Damascus/Parker/i-xxdkjrW/A)

[Chris Montgomery]

Thanks for everyone's help with the identification. I am ready to submit my letter for a research request and just wanted to confirm the letter "U" being stamped indicates Grade zero. Also, if anyone has any guidance or reference how to get a suitable appraisal once I receive the letter back, I would really appreciate it. I am located in eastern NC. Thanks again!

[Dean Romig]

The U stamped on the water table by the serial number indicates the Underlifter type of action. The grade 0 guns don't normally have anything stamped indicating their grade. The grade is most often determined by the Barrel steel used. Normally the various Twist Steels were for grades 0 & 1 and Damascus Steel barrels were used on some grade 1 guns and most all of the grade 2's and above.

In my limited experience, the stamp indicating Parker-made Laminated Steel barrels is the P with the broken left side of the foot, stamped on the forward area of the right barrel flat, such as in this illustration...


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[Chris Montgomery]

Okay thank you, so then based off the pictures I have posted, how can I tell what grade this is?

[Dean Romig]

My best guess Chris is that it is a Grade 0.




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[Drew Hause]

Chris: This is the Parker listing in the 1878 Simmons Hdw. catalog; note no letter designation, which is why guns are referred to as "Dollar Grade". Note actual selling price was less than MSRP

https://photos.smugmug.com/US-Makers/Parker/i-zrC3fDd/0/MsCncQXxxJxH2cMWptcmHbpqGrKbwDvpPqLKQMBbT/L/1878%20Simmons%20Hdw.%20Price%20List%20-%20Cropped-L.jpg (https://drewhause.smugmug.com/US-Makers/Parker/i-zrC3fDd/A)

Part of Parker's 1882 price list; now with letters

https://photos.smugmug.com/US-Makers/Parker/i-VbPS7Gz/0/NKK6b2c2wV4qqL2ZD82SwRW4rpGpGrCsWWnh4LfSg/M/Parker%20Price%20List%2C%20July%201%2C%201882%20-%20Cropped-M.jpg (https://drewhause.smugmug.com/US-Makers/Parker/i-VbPS7Gz/A)

[Dean Romig]

Thanks Drew.

It's amazing th me that the 'cheapest' or lowest dollar grade was twice as expensive as the 'cheapest' or lowest quality Parker, the Trojan when it was introduced thirty years later in 1912.





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