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Jack Cronkhite Member 
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Give me your tired, your rusted, Your dented messes yearning to hunt free, The wretched refuse of the backroom store, Send these, the hapless, dinged and trunk-tost to me, I'll get them to the field once more! Poor old 108603. She was destined to drop her barrels for a hopeful transplant recipient. Sadly, it was not a compatible match without some further harm to the old girl. She has been sorely abused and long neglected. I'm a sucker for rescue dogs and after looking over 108603, I felt a surge of compassion and thought, what the hell, I'll give it a go. Some of you have seen some of her innards and tattered extremeties in the soldered sling swivel thread. I thought I would start a new thread dedicated to a second chance. It won't happen overnight, but I will continue to post before and after images. There are no after images yet Here's a before. Others will follow but I've learned you can only do a single attachment per reply if taking from the computer, so I'll upload to another photo site so I can give several images in a post. Cheers, Jack My butt hurts!! Attached Image (viewed 980 times): Last edited on Sun May 17th, 2009 12:57 am by Jack Cronkhite |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Buttstock wood       |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Forend Wood and Iron    |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Stock Head "Pinned" with a simple #8 wood screw |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Buttstock with sling swivel removed |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Barrels          |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Action      |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Floor Plate and triggers     |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Trigger Guard with an added screw hole obliterating SN  |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Sears, pin and home built sear spring (good sear spring rust-welded in action still) |
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Dean Romig PGCA Member
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You're a better man than I am Gunga Din  |
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Destry Hoffard PGCA Member 
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When I look at a gun like that all I can think of is how many times must it have been fired and how much game it must have shot. If they could only talk..... Bet a gun like that could tell a hell of a lot more interesting stories than an A-1 Special. DLH |
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Brian Dillard Member
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Who knew there were so many parts in an old gun... You're a better man than I, that would be off to the gunsmith in a flash. |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member 
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Hell Jack, that isn't so bad. It'll clean up fine. Just keep at it. You'll see.... |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Brian Dillard wrote: Who knew there were so many parts in an old gun... You're a better man than I, that would be off to the gunsmith in a flash. As for parts, wait for all the small ones, screws, pins and springs. Once they are all out and cleaned up, I hope to duplicate the technical page parts list image with real parts and add all those not shown on the page. I have used the services of a gunsmith here and there for some machining or welding that I can't do but for a "simple" dismantle, clean and reassembly, I've learned I can do those things and enjoy the tinkering. The most important tools for the job is lots of penetrating oil and that full set of magna tip bits, including the thin set. Even with that, there are smaller screws than the smallest bit. I checked with Brownells if there are any smaller magna bits available and learned there are not. I lucked out with grinding a small "turn screw" to remove the top lever set screw but my experience has been when doing that, the blade usually breaks or bends before enough torque is applied to start the screw. Even after a long soak in good penetrating oil, some gentle tapping or judicious heat application, it still takes a fair bit of torque to break some of the very small rust welded screws free. Jeweller's screw drivers fit some of these, but they do not have the strength to do the job. Destry: Thoughts of the hunts and the stories that could be told do wander through my mind as well. I think that is part of why I thought I would give it a go. It is also why I enjoy photographing long abandoned desolate prairie farm buildings I encounter when chasing roosters. Richard: I'll keep at it. This is one of those projects where forgetting it for a week or two or a month as things soak is reasonable - a perk of being retired with no particular deadlines for anything. Interestingly, after a week or so of keeping the barrels wet with penetrating oil and a bit of a wipe down with nothing more that an old dish rag, there is a lot of blue replacing the "rustina". Dean: A quote that I have used over the years. Young people usually respond with a bewildered look about them  , thinking the old guy must have lost it for sure. A generational thing I guess. Required reading lists change over the decades I guess.If anyone has a source for tiny, strong screw driver bits, I would appreciate the information. Cheers, Jack |
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Greg Miller PGCA Member
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Surprised that they did not melt the lead solder on the bottom rib when they brazed on the sling swivel. Would take a braver man than I to take a torch to the rib of a double. And, they seem to have done it! I think once you clean it up, that alone qualifies it for the guiness book of world records, or maybe at least for the Darwin Awards. Thanks for the pics, I have not had a Parker apart, and it was interesting to see the internals, even if it is hard to see them in this shape. Good luck with the rescue. Last edited on Tue May 19th, 2009 08:18 pm by Greg Miller |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Greg: I think had it been brazed on the rib would have separated. This is on with lead solder and it is fairly soft. I will get it off eventually. Today's small victory The unhooking pin did not move well. There is a small spring that allows movement within a short distance and then returns pin to its fully extended position. After a long soak, the pin was freed and the rust and grunge were worked out slowly. But the true victory was finally being able to remove the unhooking pin screw. You can see the head of that screw at top-left of this image. The slot was completely filled but after the grunge was removed, a jewellers screwdriver did break it free. The 3 pieces are now soaking separately for final clean up. Sometimes the fates allow. Cheers, Jack Attached Image (viewed 573 times): |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Next little victory The cocking crank pin stop screws are removed. The cocking crank pin has been punched out (had to buy a set of long pin punches to get at it). With that done, the cocking crank is out. All are soaking for a while yet before clean up. All that remains in the action now is the joint roll, joint pin and joint pin screw. (The large screw head at the front of the action. The slot is good so I don't want to mangle it) Still soaking. I stop applying torque at a certain feel. If it doesn't break loose there, back into the penetrating oil it goes. Cheers, Jack |
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Lon E. Morris PGCA Member
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Jack, Congratulations! I'll bet she will clean up fine and you will be hunting with her this fall. I especially like the Vulcan barrels. The really neat part is you got the gun in it's purest form, and know exactly what you have. I would much rather have you gun than some "faked" Parker. I agree with Destry! Lon |
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Dave Suponski PGCA Member
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Jack,You are truly an admirable gentleman...bringing this old girl back. Keep up the progress pictures.I like works -in-progress. |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Hammers Mainsprings Plungers Screws (Just a bit of fun removing this group) |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Extractor & Screw |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Latch & Screws  |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Top Lever & Screw  |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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So, that will be all my before pics. The sling swivel is still attached. Indirect heat did not melt the solder but I could feel the barrels getting warm so I stopped. Chisels next. The body of the action is almost clean. There is even a dot of case color under the top end of the lever.  The rest of the metal is a blue/black color.  All that has been used is penetrating oil, rags, thumbnail, q-tips, toothpicks, nylon brush and small blade screwdriver to clean machined edges. Some of the rust was almost a steel skin where there were moving parts under pressure. Still lots of effort required but the progress thus far is satisfying. The top-lever spring (flat type) is broken  and that welded sear spring won't be going back in. I can temporarily use parts from the family VH but will try to find those pieces over time.The toughest separation of parts has not been metal/metal. I still cannot remove the fore-end iron from the forestock. The metal/rust/wood bond is unreal. The wood is ugly but I intend to keep it and do what I can to refurbish. Just in case this isn't ready for fall, my wife agreed it would be a really good idea to buy a very nice looking VH with no issues that appeared one day on GA. A deal was struck and it will find its way from NY to SK over the next few weeks. I have not contracted the "itis", I can quit any time (I think). Cheers, Jack Last edited on Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 04:06 am by Jack Cronkhite |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Looking for opinions. You can see the rust covering everything. I am slowly getting rid of it. What is coming through is a fair bit of the original barrel blue remains. The action is silvery blue and black with some fine pitting. Internal parts are mostly a dark brown or blue/black or worn to silvery steel. Some screw shafts are heavily pitted but most heads are reasonable. Once I have it as clean as I can get it - what next?? Would you keep it as is with just a light coat of gun-oil to stop further deterioration or re-blue anything? I recall someone said the internal parts were not blued, yet they look kinda dark blue. What was done to the internals at the factory to have them look as they do?? Thanks, Jack |
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Thomas Schiffer Member
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Jack: Good to see you cleaning it up and putting it back together. I'd certainly see what it looks like with a simple clean-up and a bit of stock work. I have been amazed at what you can find under a seemingly terminal case of rust! It'll make a fine field gun that would be hard to hurt with use. VH No. 104642 made it all the way down here to Kentucky and has been happy here in spite of some misdemeanors (recoil pad and buggered a few buggered screws in the trigger plate on a trip to Minneapolis many years ago). It has been used by three generations in this family, starting with my grampa. Did you decide not to remove the hinge-pin? I understand it is not easily done, but am curious as to what it looks like. In mine, the "screw" slot is no longer "north and south" but barrel is on-face and tight. Good luck with your project. ts |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member
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Once I've cleaned all the rust off, I coat all internal parts with Ballistol. Just soak them and let them drip dry then reinstall. It seems to leave a coating that does not run off entirely and protects them very well. I've taken a gun so treated apart after a year and it's still just as it was when put together. Last edited on Fri Jun 5th, 2009 02:52 pm by Richard Flanders |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Thanks gents. I'm looking at her as a gun with character so my inclination is to get through the clean-up and necessary repairs. All numbers match, including wood so I'll try to keep it together and find one sear spring and top lever spring somewhere. I am still unable to remove forend iron - really stuck to the wood and it has been soaked a lot. I guess it needs a lot more. As for the "hinge pin" ( joint pin, joint pin screw and joint roll), I'm at the point of considering discretion to be the better part of valor. Nothing has budged so far and I read on another thread that one needs a press to remove and reinsert the joint roll, so whatever rust issues might be there don't seem to be an interference with functionality. Cheers, Jack |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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--Okay, I lied. Here are a few more "before" pics. Today was the day that I gave up being gentle with the forend iron. I tried many ways to gently remove it, from light tapping with an amber hammer, to heavier smacking with a rubber mallet, to inserting a pin punch into the screw holes and gently smacking sideways with a brass hammer, all to no avail. By the way, it has been soaking in penetrating oil from the get go. I tried a gentle pin punch tap on the forend tumbler but thought better of that but that got me thinking about completely filling the slot in some manner that would hold the full width of the tumbler to spread the forces across its entire width. I found I could do that with an 11mm box end wrench. So, the wrench was placed in the vice and the tumbler caught with about 1/2 inch of clearance from the vice jaws. With that solid set up, a couple taps on the wood with the rubber mallet finally raised the metal above the wood. A little more wiggling and it was free. Here's a few pics. Remember, this has been soaking for a couple of weeks and the rust is still dry in many areas. Sorry about focus on this shot to illustrate the wrench solution. The second pic is wood not metal.          Last edited on Sun Jun 7th, 2009 06:25 am by Jack Cronkhite |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Here are some "in progress" shots. I kept parts more or less together in small plastic bags filled with penetrating oil and left them hanging for a while. Then, a clean up and back into a new bag. First images are of initial soak, then a second soak and even a third. Each time, more of the rust goes and more of the metal shows.    |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Two contrived solutions. A .410 brush with tip wrapped in steel wool did a good job on the action mainspring cylinders. You saw how rusted the springs and plungers were. The whole area was actually a solid cylinder of rust. I don't have a hone small enough to get in there but the bore brush/steel wool combo is doing a decent job.  The top rib/barrel join was completely filled with rust. I started at it with a jeweller's screwdriver blade and then thought better of it. I found that cedar shims worked amazingly well. Snapping piece after piece and running it along the join has eventually cleared out the rust. The nice thing about the cedar is it always broke in a manner that gave me a sort of keen wooden blade - solid enough for the job and gentle enough to leave not a scratch behind.   |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member
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I do the exact same thing with the brush/steel wool when necessary. I chuck the rod in a cordless drill and have at it and the rust goes away pretty quickly. The wood on the forend looks pretty good actually; the metal is a mess but will mostly clean up ok considering. I also use wood on that rib junction. Round toothpicks work well and I bet that cedar did very well. |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Richard: I used a lot of toothpicks in the action here and there. They broke immediately on the rib/barrel exercise. The shims gave me enough rigidity to be able to apply rust grinding pressure. The mainspring cylinders are fairly pitted. I know that makes no difference to functionality but now I'm really into this, I would like to smooth them out somewhat. Is there a short cylinder hone that would fit? If I understand barrel hones, a .410 barrel hone may not work as the springs would overcome the stones in such a short distance and end up not leaving a cylindrical bore for the mainsprings. Any thoughts on this?? Cheers, Jack |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member
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I guess I wouldn't try to smooth them; I'd just try to get all the rust out then treat them with Ballistol to keep them that way. But... perhaps a home made hone of a small dowel wrapped with wet/dry paper would work to hone them some. Slit the dowel the put one end of the paper into to keep it from just spinning on the dowel then wrap enough around the dowel to give it some spring and be large enough to exert pressure when put into the hole and spun with a drill. Or, alternatively, take a new bore cleaning mop and glue one end of the paper strip to it with contact cement or gorilla glue then wrap some around tightly, stick it into the hole and let it expand and spin it with a drill. You get the picture; there has to be a way to dream up something with what you have or can easily get. Keep it lubed with water or very light oil as you hone to keep the paper from clogging with removed metal/rust. Start with coarser paper then graduate to the finest, which in my collection is 2000 grit paper, or 0000 steel wool. My Rutland tool catalog(1824 pages of pure ecstasy which NO ONE should be without!)800-289-4787 has carbide flex ball hones as small as .25"($10.95!) between 120x-320x grit and stainless steel deburring brushes(v stiff) as small as .024"($4.26) that would do you just fine. If they don't have what a tool guy needs, he doesn't need it. Give them a call and get a catalog..... I wouldn't be without one. As for removing rust on parts like you have soaking, I use a GUNK product called, "Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner" that's for automotive cooling systems. It's a caustic I think as you can't use it on aluminum. You make up a weak solution of this stuff, toss everything in and the next day take them out and wipe ALL the rust off to bare metal with a paper towel or rag. Amazing stuff and won't harm unrusted steel. I've used it for decades on rusted old tools I pick up at old mines around Alaska. And it will clean an old radiator and engine block out like you have never seen. Cooling system "flushes" are absolutely useless and pedestrian compared to this stuff. I consider it one of lifes true miracle inventions. For parts where you can't get at and remove the rust there is a Loctite product called "Extend Rust Treatment" that my brother in law, a body man who works on some old heavily rusted cars in Michigan gives his highest recommendation. This stuff soaks into and stops rust from advancing and he says it REALLY works. On the bottle here it says: "Destroys rust, Seals and protects metal, Dries to a tough protective primer coating" that can be painted over. Perfect for the rusted quarter panels of old cars that you can't or don't want to cut out and replace, or for nooks and crannies in guns that you can't get at and want to stabilize. Loctite P/N 75430. Last edited on Sun Jun 7th, 2009 05:43 pm by Richard Flanders |
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Hugh Rather PGCA Member
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How about a close fitting wooden dowel slotted to hold 400 to 600 grit paper with oil. Proceed slowly,you only want to polish ,those pistons fit closely,don't want binding . This gun reminds me of a 16 gauge I cleaned up that I called the Zack Taylor gun after a Parker he described in the classic "Successful Waterfowling"book.He spoke of it being "driven out of sight"in mud and rusted in salt water but it was his favorite. Last edited on Sun Jun 7th, 2009 05:29 pm by Hugh Rather |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member
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Jack: Rutland has a adjustable H/S steel bladed reamers with ranges between 1/4" - 9/32" going up to 2-3/4"- 3-11/32". The small one is only $11.28. Pg 105 of catalog no. 54. |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Another find under a coat of rust and mud. I don't recall seeing a number on the back of other buttplates but maybe I wasn't paying attention. This may be a bit difficult to see. Almost looks like pencil lead. Anyway, at home under good light it is clearly 6 03 So, every numbered piece on this gun matches. Has anyone tried to re-build a butt-plate? I'm thinking fiberglass and a bit of carving might work. Other thoughts??? Is the buttplate "hard rubber"? I recall someone saying mineral oil is good for cleaning these. Is that recollection correct? Also, any other products anyone has used successfully?? Thanks, Jack   Last edited on Wed Jun 10th, 2009 06:15 pm by Jack Cronkhite |
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Dave Suponski PGCA Member
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Jack,Parker dogshead butt plates are made from "gutta percha" This is a type of hard rubber. A few years back my wood guy"The Stock Doctor" Dennis Smith repaired one on a VH grade gun using colored acraglass.To this day I still cannot see the repair. As far as the pencil marking on the back I have seen many marked this way, Last edited on Wed Jun 10th, 2009 07:24 pm by Dave Suponski |
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David Hamilton PGCA Member
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Jack, You might save a bit of time by buying a new Dog's Head Butt Plate from Galazan. David |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Gents: Thanks for the info. I'll try the acraglass. I do have a reproduction DHBP and it sits in the workshop. Maybe I'm a nutcase, but every time I think of putting it on the family gun (why I bought it) I say no to myself. With this gun and it's starting condition and now with the 603 on the butt plate, I'm again saying no. I'll gain a bit of pleasure in my pursuit of happiness by fiddling with the original to see where I get to. I am no longer pressed for time on anything in life (other than maybe life itself) so I'll keep plugging away. Good news on another front though. 104355 is finding its way from NY to MT. All bureaucracies have been satisfied with whatever paper they needed. Will meet my Exporting FFL at the border one day to bring it home. From the pics and description, I think I will have a good condition VH from the get go. All I should have to do is resist taking it apart, now I have the right tools. Maybe it will need a little freshening up on the inside Cheers, Jack |
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Thomas Schiffer Member
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Jack: I have effected a fine repair of a Colt Single Action grip which I assume is the same material. I used clear epoxy which may be the same as Accraglass. Parker Ser No. 30306 arrived today and I will be into a project like yours only mine is not as rusty...no screws were reluctant. I will be posting under the original query. My (steel) buttplate has a ghost of the correct ser no on the back (pencil?) ts |
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Dave Noreen PGCA Member
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New Parker Bros. top lever springs are also available from Galazan. |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Dave: Thanks for the tip. Cheers, Jack |
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Jim Williams BBS Member
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Jack, I restored about 1/2 in. of a missing toe from a DHBP by making a mold out of wood. I cut an oversized outline of the missing portion of the toe into a piece of plywood slightly thicker than the buttplate. I drilled several holes into the broken edge of the buttplate to allow the acraglass to flow into them and get a good bite on the buttplate. I mixed up acraglass with the black dye and fiberglass flock, then worked it into the depths of the holes drilled in the buttplate. Then I laid everything out on waxed paper, lined up the buttplate with the toe mold, and poured in the black-dyed acraglass until it filled the void. After setting, I carefully cut the wooden mold away, installed the buttplate on the gun, and carefully sanded the oversized toe outline back to match the stock toe outline. After that I scribed the border line and checkering lines to match up with the remaining original portion. The result was an invisible repair, and the owner was thrilled with it (so was I). Jim |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Sounds like fun. I had been thinking about drilling holes along the edge and was thinking of inserting metal pins so that the acraglass would have a means to hold all together - thinking along the lines of cement work and rebar pins (on a tiny scale). Lots of time to still think about and receive ideas. what did you use to cut the lines in the finished product? I had wondered about bothering, since the surface is so worn it will almost need to be fully re-cut. Anyway, still thinking. Thanks for the info. Cheers, Jack Last edited on Sat Jun 13th, 2009 05:21 pm by Jack Cronkhite |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Today was the day the swivel finally came loose. I used a small carving chisel to get all around the edges, then heated the chisel tip red hot and kept tapping it in behind the swivel base. Then a wire in vice grips also heated red hot and pushed in behind. Eventually I had a bit of a clearance. With that, I began tapping a wedge screw driver behind, alternating with the hot chisel/wire combo. Eventually, the wedge effect broke it loose. All in all it was 3 days, off and on, to remove it. I don't think I scratched the barrels or rib. We'll see once all the solder is gone from the barrels. Many times during the process, it was very tempting to just hit it with the torch. Cheers, Jack   |
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Tom Leshinsky PGCA Member
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You could have wired it up and used a propane torch to get it loose and still can to get the solder off. You also can make a mold out of modeling clay and use another butt plate to mold the missing piece that way you have less wook with the checkering. Silicone rubber mold making stuff also works, you can get it in a jewelry supply store. |
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David Purnell PGCA Member 
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Jack, you done good on the swivel removal. Dave |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Thanks Dave. Tom: Hadn't thought of making a silicone mold but that sounds like a fine idea. I was leery of the torch for removal. I started with indirect heat on the swivel but before the solder started to melt, the barrels were too hot to touch with a bare hand so I quit. I'm not sure how much heat the rib can take before separation occurs. What is the conventional wisdom on that? Started on the wood in the past couple days. A local gunsmith said some folks have had good luck with the furniture stripper in the picture. It seems to work The wood is not effected at all Just removes the finish and the wood is like it started out - except for the major dents and scratches. In the past I would have sanded but this stuff makes that seem a real chore. It is taking longer on the oil/mud soaked areas but it is coming. The forend is an oil challenge. Gasoline????   |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Thought it would be interesting to show the difference in barrel color. So far just the penetrating oil and rags and cedar shims and 0000 steel wool. Still has a fair bit of "varnish" rust spots. Any hints for that stuff??? |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Ever have one of those days? A lifetime of junk here and there and you can remember exactly where some little doodad that you saved a decade ago can be located in case you ever found a use for it. Skip ahead the whole decade, still know where the doodad is but start dismantling some guns and miscellaneous other junk. Now I did save the little zip-loc bags about 4 or 5 years ago, not knowing they would become home to some Parker parts. I dismantled in the basement and started hanging bags onto the coat hanger. I then decided there would be way too many for that, so moved the operation to the garage. Fast forward a couple weeks. Opening bags and removing parts and wiping down for another soak (haven't found the full strength Gunk yet) Then realize you can't find a tiny screw and spring. Clean up the entire garage/basement work area. Still can't find it. Starting to get concerned the outta control pup may have snagged a bag and buried it somewhere. Retrace your steps over and over. Drag out the magnetic broom and go over everywhere - find some strange things but not what you're looking for. Go to the beer fridge (basement) to cool off and just happen to glance up. Still hanging in the bag off the coat hanger. How many times in the past several days have I been right under the darn things while I was feverishly looking on the table and bench. By the way, the double gun in parts on the table is not a Parker - a family Jannsen & Sons Belgian hammer in not much better shape than 108603. That rooster gracing the basement wall is my first from 1966 taken with a Savage 755A autoloader. Taxidermy by my Dad. But I digress. Short term memory seems not a strong point these days and my dear wife takes pleasure in pointing out that I can remember every little bush somewhere on the prairie where I got this rooster or that sharptail or whatever. (She's right on that). Anyway, panic mode is over. Moral of the story? When all else has failed - get a cold beer. Cheers, Jack   |
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Tom Leshinsky PGCA Member
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Jack, if you did use heat on the bbls you have to use wire loops every 4" or so and put weges under the loops on the top and botom ribs so they don't come apart. You have to have the weges very firm. |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member
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If the ribs are soldered with silver solder, I think it has a melting point of somewhere between 900 and 1000 deg F. Regular 50/50 will let loose well below that. You did good at any rate. How about using Flitz on the rust? Last edited on Sun Jun 14th, 2009 04:29 am by Richard Flanders |
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Jack Cronkhite Member
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Richard: Never heard of Flitz. Had a look at their website. Would you suggest the liquid, the paste or the spray calcium/lime/rust remover? Jack |
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member
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I've only got a tube of the cream. Lots of folks on this forum have used it so they should chime in with advice. I've heard lots of good input from some of them on it's use on guns. |
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tom tutwilerjr Member
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Might try Wenol, Metal Polish. German made and they use it on Rolex watches etc. Comes in a tube and it will indeed remove light rust without impacting the metal. Had a gunsmith turn me on to it. I think most places that sell high end watches have it. Big tube will run you about $15.00 US and will last for years. I have indeed used it on a parker I sold and it did a wonderful job of cleaning up oxidation. Wouldn't use it on case coloring as just like Flitz, your case coloring will be removed. |
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