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Dave Miles
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| Joined: | Thu Jan 6th, 2005 |
| Location: | Michigan USA |
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Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2005 10:41 pm |
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In all seriousness, on a VH 20 gauge. How difficult is it to remove the stock and give the receiver and trigger group a good cleaning? What is the best lube to use afterwards, and is there anything one needs to watch out for when putting things back together? This gun is just a shooter, so if I mess it up. I don't mind sending it to someone. It's just most people don't like fixing other peoples mistakes. 
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Larry Frey
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| Joined: | Fri Jan 7th, 2005 |
| Location: | Connecticut USA |
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Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2005 11:01 pm |
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| Dave, Things might be slow on this site for a while as it will take time for people to realize that its back up. You never know how much you enjoy something utill its gone for a while. I can't help with your maintanance question but would like to ask how you posted the picture of the hammer gun in your other post. I wish more people would include pictures as they ad a lot of intrest to an already interesting site. Larry
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Dave Miles
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| Location: | Michigan USA |
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Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2005 11:15 pm |
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| When you're typing your post, if you look at the bottom. There's a blank area, then a gray box, to the right, that says browse. You click on that, to browse your hard drive. You have to know where your pictures are stored. Click on the picture from your computors files, and it should put it in your post.
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Harry Sanders
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Posted: Sat Jan 8th, 2005 12:25 am |
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| Sweet! Direct posting of photos!!!! Thanks for bringing it to light. You should be able to disassemble and clean your gun. Though I will tell you that it'll likely need complete disassembly. You will need a set of Gunsmith screwdrivers or the ability to grind screwdrivers you already own to correctly fit the screws. These screws can become quite tight after use and dried up lube.
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James Williams
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Posted: Sat Jan 8th, 2005 03:11 am |
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Dave,
Removing the stock isn't all that difficult, but it does require a few tools and a LOT of care. The most important things you will need are a screw driver or three that actually FIT the different sized screws, a non-marring drift pin to drive out the sear pin, and a non-marring hammer (plastic-faced, etc). The first step is to dry fire the gun on snap caps, remove the fore end (so as not to re-cock the hammers), and then remove the barrels. Next is to remove the screw in the trigger guard (by the serial #) and gently lift the guard from it's inletted bed (pushing forward on the guard may help), then unscrew the guard from the trigger plate by revolving the whole guard around the front stud about 4-5 turns. Under the trigger guard you will find another screw head which you can remove next (the tip (other end) of this screw is visible on the top tang by the safety). Next, you can remove the large screw under the top lever. This requires a different size screw driver. Next, remove the three screws in the trigger plate. (Note: it may be easier to remove these screws if you only break each screw loose sequentially, a little at a time. If you completely loosen them one at a time, the last screw may be under an uneven strain and be more difficult to break loose). After these screws are out you turn the receiver over and use a wooden dowel, or a non-marring soft-metal drift inserted into the rear of the slot in the water table and tap gently to drive the trigger plate from the bottom of the frame. At this point the stock will become very loose and floppy on the receiver, but you CANNOT remove it yet! Be very careful as the trigger plate comes out, making sure that the stock doesn't jump around and break some of the wood in the fragile head portion. Also be sure to catch the cocking slide which rides just inside the trigger plate. Once the trigger plate is off, the final step is to remove the sears. If you try to remove the stock without removing the sears, you WILL break the stock. This is the reason you let the hammers down before you even began. Pay careful attention to how the sears are oriented (draw a picture if you have a poor memory). The sear pin is visible on either side of the outside of the frame at the lower rear corner. Using a drift slightly smaller than the sear pin, carefully drive it out the other side of the receiver, removing each sear as it is cleared by the pin. You may now remove the stock. There will be a few parts left in the stock (safety mechanism, automatic safety rod, mainscrew ferrule) but it is not necessary to remove these for normal cleaning. You can clean the receiver out with your favorite gun solvent, then blow the crud out with compressed air. After it is clean to your satisfaction, spray the inside with something like RemOil, wipe most of it out, and add a drop of gun oil to each joint between moving parts. While you're at it, now would be a great time to add a coat of sealer (like Tru-Oil) to the inletting in the head of the stock, to keep gun oil from ruining the wood. Don't let it collect in puddles anywhere, because the fit between wood and metal is a close tolerance.
Re-assembly is the reverse of the above, except that you must make sure to engage the safety slide on the tang with the safety lever in the stock as you slide the receiver back into the stock. This is a little tricky, so make sure it works properly before continuing. The sears go back in next, the pin is driven through, and the cocking slide is put in place to engage the cocking hook and hammer notches, then the trigger plate is put into place and tapped with a plastic-faced, etc. hammer until it is fully seated. After that, it is just a matter of replacing screws.
Do all work with the receiver firmly supported in a vise with soft jaws. To not do so is to invite ruined screw heads, broken inletting, etc. There are a few operations (like removing the sear pin) that will be easier out of the vise, but be very careful! For screw drivers, you need the hollow-ground tipped ones, and will likely have to shape the tips with a file a little to get proper fit in the slots.
I may have left something out, but I don't think so. If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
Jim
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Dave Miles
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Posted: Sat Jan 8th, 2005 09:43 am |
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Thanks Jim,
I will print and study your directions. I was going to replace the buttstock, so I thought I would do some cleaning as long as I had the stock off. But, at this point, I think I may have to let a professional handle the job.
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Dick Baum
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| Location: | Mingoville, Pa |
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Posted: Sat Jan 8th, 2005 11:25 pm |
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| Dave: I read Jim's directions and don't think he has missed a thing. However, I think I would watch a professional remove the stock once before I tried it myself. There are too many chances for a mis-step. Just my humble opinion. Dick Baum
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Harry Sanders
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Posted: Sun Jan 9th, 2005 01:43 am |
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| I believe we may have missed the screw under the top lever. this must come out before the sear pins and before wer take the floor plate off. Much care HAS TO BE TAKEN when driving the sear pin out as the stock is loose on the action and WILL move around. I always like to use some washers that fit correctly and put the rear most tang screw back in so that I don't splinter or ding up the wood to metal fit on top of the receiver when I tap the sear pin out.
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Bruce Day
PGCA Member
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Posted: Mon Jan 10th, 2005 05:57 pm |
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| Don't mess up the screws! Many of us hate bunged up screw heads , or screws that are not aligned on Parkers. Its a big deal for a little indicator.
____________________
Bruce Day
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Fred Preston
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| Joined: | Tue Jan 4th, 2005 |
| Location: | Red Haw, Ohio USA |
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Posted: Tue Jan 11th, 2005 08:37 pm |
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James,
Great post. I printed a hard copy. About three years ago I was driving back from Boston and stopped at DelGrego's shop in upstate NY (I called ahead and set the time and my problem; I was having trouble with the safety and SST on my 20ga. DHE). I was greeted by young Larry and he took the gun, sat down on a stool by the bench with the gun in his lap and, with the right turn screw, proceeded to remove the butt stock and some parts from the rear of the receiver while BSing with me all the time. He shaved a little wood from the inside of the butt stock, replaced a spring, reassembled the gun and handed back to me, all in about 15 or 20 minutes. It's worked fine ever since. It would have been nice to have a video of the process as my memory couldn't keep up. Your post will surely help.
Thanks, Fred
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