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marshall moore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 01:46 am |
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| Gentlemen,Is there a easy way to remove the barrels from my Parker other then via qualified gunsmith? After my near debacle this morning, many thanks by the way, I thought I would defer to a higher authority. Again, many thanks!
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Pat Dugan
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 01:56 am |
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Take off the forend by pulling on the forend latch, The forend should drop off. Pull both triggers to let the internal hammers down. Hold the barells in your left hand and push the top lever to the right and they should drop right off as you pull down on them. Do it over a bed the first time so if you drop something it wont hurt.
PDD
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marshall moore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 02:08 am |
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| Success! Many thanks Pat. I am teachable after all. I see a Kf and and then a big 4 with a little 7 and what looks to be a 2 up on top. Any clues? Last edited on Fri May 22nd, 2009 02:08 am by marshall moore
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marshall moore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 02:20 am |
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| Okay, Found it on the home page. I guess the 2 is the frame size and 4.7 is the weight. Not sure of the Kf but thanks for your patience.I'll fall back in line.
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 02:37 am |
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marshall moore wrote: Okay, Found it on the home page. I guess the 2 is the frame size and 4.7 is the weight. Not sure of the Kf but thanks for your patience.I'll fall back in line.
Per the Parker Story, the authors really do not know what the Kf means. It is on early VH guns. I am sure there is some speculation. I have a 20ga with that stamp.
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marshall moore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 03:01 am |
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| Kurt, I'm sure I would not be the first to wonder if it were initials of one of the craftsmen. I see the story is available..looks like I'll have to save up for it though.
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 03:07 am |
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It could be some sort of inspection stamp.
TPS is very nice to have and I find myself referenceing it all the time. Also, spend the $30-35 on the Parker Gun identificaion and serialization manual by Price and Fjestad.
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marshall moore
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 03:09 am |
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| Roger that Kurt. Thanks for the heads up.
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Steve Huffman
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 09:44 am |
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| Why do you have to pull both triggers to remove the barrels ?
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Dave Miles
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 10:47 am |
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Steve Huffman wrote: Why do you have to pull both triggers to remove the barrels ?
You don't, and I never do on mine.
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Leighton Stallones
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 04:06 pm |
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| I have to pull both triggers on all three of mine to remove the barrels.
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Carl Brandt
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 05:42 pm |
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Steve,
There is a pin that protrudes from the front of the receiver, ahead of the roll pin, that when it is extended (br removing the forend) allows the cocking hook to disengage from the cocking link. If the internals are gummed up with old grease this pin sometimes does not come all the way out. Dropping the hammers effectively jars the pin loose and lets you take the barrels off. Disassembly and cleaning indicated.
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Steve Huffman
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Posted: Fri May 22nd, 2009 07:10 pm |
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| Carl ,Ok So what you are saying is that thoes who need to pull both triggers need to clean their guns.
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Kevin McCormack
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Posted: Sat May 23rd, 2009 09:34 pm |
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| The K with the italic superscript f has been discussed numerous times on this site. When I spoke with Leon Bartholemew, former Parker Bros. barrel maker, at the "Parker Homecoming" in Meriden some years ago, he said that the K was the inspection mark of Walter King (also seen as WK) and that the superscript italic f was taken from the German word "fertig", which means final or finished. The two taken together are thought to represent the successful final inspection and approval of the barrels before being sent to the next line of production of the gun. A large majority of the gun craftsmen in the early days at Parker Bros. were Germans, and they borrowed freely from their language in proofing and inspection marks.
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marshall moore
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Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 11:40 am |
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| Thanks Kevin. This forum is a wealth of information and I greatly appreciate the responses. I been overwhelmed by members generosity.
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Jeff King
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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 01:58 am |
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Pat Dugan wrote: Take off the forend by pulling on the forend latch, The forend should drop off. Pull both triggers to let the internal hammers down. Hold the barells in your left hand and push the top lever to the right and they should drop right off as you pull down on them. Do it over a bed the first time so if you drop something it wont hurt.
I have never done that prior to removing barrels, and admit I do not know that much about Parker's. If the hammers are not cocked when barrels are removed is their any problem in reinstalling barrels?
PDD
____________________
Jeff
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Chuck Bishop
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Posted: Mon May 25th, 2009 12:17 pm |
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Last edited on Mon May 25th, 2009 12:27 pm by Chuck Bishop
____________________
Chuck Bishop
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Jim Williams
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Posted: Tue May 26th, 2009 06:06 am |
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Jeff King wrote: Pat Dugan wrote: Take off the forend by pulling on the forend latch, The forend should drop off. Pull both triggers to let the internal hammers down. Hold the barells in your left hand and push the top lever to the right and they should drop right off as you pull down on them. Do it over a bed the first time so if you drop something it wont hurt.
I have never done that prior to removing barrels, and admit I do not know that much about Parker's. If the hammers are not cocked when barrels are removed is their any problem in reinstalling barrels?
PDD
No, there won't be a problem reinstalling the barrels with the hammers uncocked. The only thing you have to watch out for is if you remove the forend from an ejector-equipped gun and the ejectors somehow get tripped, the ejector hammers in the forend must be re-cocked before trying to re-install the forend on the gun.
Jim
Last edited on Tue May 26th, 2009 06:06 am by Jim Williams
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Jeff King
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Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 01:19 am |
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Thanks for the info. Mine is a GH, non ejector. I had read something about that process of recocking ejectors but did not remember. I will probably start storing it now uncocked.
____________________
Jeff
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Jim Williams
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Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 04:47 am |
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Jeff King wrote: Thanks for the info. Mine is a GH, non ejector. I had read something about that process of recocking ejectors but did not remember. I will probably start storing it now uncocked.
Fear not, and that is technically a good practice. However, I really don't think it is necessary in a coil-type mainspring gun like a Parker (this is opinion, not documented fact). I have a 1911 VH that has been in my family for almost all of its service life and I know for a fact that it has always been stored cocked. It still strikes primers as well as any other gun I've got.
On the other hand, I remain squeamish about the Parker factory-sanctioned practice of dry-firing a Parker - at least on a high-repitition basis. The old factory literature stated that they could be dry-fired with impunity without fear of ever breaking a firing pin and on that point I would agree. The DelGregos have a drawer full of spare Parker hammers because they have "never" had to replace one (don't know if that is meant literally or just practically). Nevertheless, having studied just what goes on when the gun is dry-fired, the hammers still take a beating because they really aren't true rebounding hammers. They don't meet spring resistance at the end of their stroke to cushion the blow, but rather they free-float for the last little bit of the stroke and their inertia is what provides the force to dent the primer. Without the primer to cushion it, the hammer still gets subjected to a forceful shock at the end of the stroke (although the firing pin portion does not). As a result, I envision that a steady regimen of dry-firing (like someone practicing daily mount/swing/dry-fire routines) would eventually work-harden the hammers enough for a failure to occur.
Sure, if you need to let the hammers down and don't have snap-caps available, then go right ahead. I just (again, my opinion) don't like doing it if there is an easy option available to avoid it. In fact, if I don't have snap caps around and I want to let the hammers down to disassemble a receiver, I take it over to the edge of the workbench and place the standing breech against the edge of the wooden table top and let the firing pins strike the wood to cushion the blow. Probably un-necessary, but that's just me.
Jim
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