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Over-torqued screws
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Jack Cronkhite
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 08:43 pm

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When cruising internet gun sites, I see so many Parker images where one or more screws is either under-torqued (should not cause a problem to register properly) or over-torqued.

When a screw is out of register because it has been over-torqued, will there be problems after re-setting??

Are threads already buggered as a result?
If backed off, will the joined parts now be slightly loose?  Will that lead to future problems?

What is the proper way to re-set over-torqued screws?

Just wondering.

Here's an example of over-torqued floor plate screw on Gunsinternational today




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E Robert Fabian
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 08:46 pm

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They may just need to be swapped, lots of times you can swap your forward screws and that does the trick.

Jack Cronkhite
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 08:51 pm

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Swapping sounds like a good first step.  Hadn't thought of that.



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Chuck Bishop
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 08:52 pm

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The screws should be marked on the bottom .  One should have a +, the other a - and the third unmarked.  I think on some guns 2 screws are of the same length and the other screw longer.  Sorry, I don't recall which side the + or - goes.  I'm sure someone will chime in on what goes where.



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Jack Cronkhite
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 09:57 pm

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Chuck:  That is a good tidbit to know.  Mr. Parker and friends were thinking things through pretty well.  Jack



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Chris Travinski
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 10:03 pm

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Jack,

I have found that if the screws aren't mixed, you can alter how they are indexed by the amount of torque you put on the third screw by the trigger guard.  The floor plate is slightly tapered all the way around so it is somewhat dynamic.  If you find the screws are turned too far and aren't tight, loosen them up and knock the floor plate loose again, and then try it again after you have tightened up that third screw a little more.  When everything is correct, the screws will be flush to the touch as will the edges of the floor plate.

Jack Cronkhite
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 Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 10:18 pm

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Chris:  That makes perfect sense - a bit like torquing head bolts.  Now those are done according to a defined sequence.  How about the Parker now.  Is there a defined sequence?  Any I have done (read two), I get it all finger tight and then make the rounds, applying slightly more torque each time.  So far, I have been llucky.  Now I'm wondering if I lucked out with the + and -  ??  If I ever dismantle again, I will be looking for those signs.

Cheers,
Jack



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Chris Travinski
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 Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 12:23 am

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If you put them back in the same place it's pretty easy to index them.  The screws were filed flat once put into the action before any engraving etc, so they will only fit in one hole in one position and be flush.

Harry Sanders
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 Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 12:28 am

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Oscar fixed this with the black iron wire he used to wire up parts for case coloring.  He'd take a small piece and place it under the head and tighten to index (crushing the wire) that way everything was tight.

Carl Brandt
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 Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 03:40 am

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If they are only slightly off, like this one, Locktite Blue works wonders.


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