Recoil Pad Installation - How to suggestions please

[Pa SxS]

As we are of you Edgar

[B. Dudley]

You talking to me bill?

[Bill Murphy]

Yes, I would like to know what you think of that method.

[B. Dudley]

Well, sort of. I would not recommend using any sort of power equipment on the pad while it is attached to the stock. Too many chances of things to go wrong.

What i do is true up the base of the pad since most are not flat from the start. I attach the pad to the stock, get the outline of the stock by scribing it with a sharp awl or something of the sort. Remove the pad. Sometimes the line is plenty visible as is or it may help to use something to show it off. I like to use the blue chalk line chalk. Just sprinkle it on and rub it into the line to show it better.
I then mount the pad to a grinding jig. I use a miles gilbert jig. I use a T-bevel to get the angle of the toe and heel in order to set the jig to for grinding. I use a 12" radius sander for grinding. I grind the toe and around the sides half way up first and then i set angle for the heel and do that end. I grind up to the line and not past it.
I then remount the pad. Usually there is about enough to catch your fingernail on after grinding. It is at this time that i do use 3M painters tape on the wood and use strips of polishing cloth to bring down what is left by hand. The blue 3M tape holds up well to sanding on it and it flexes nicely for curved butts.

The type of pad plays a big role here since some hand finish nicer than others. The bases are all about the same, but the rubber part can be problematic when hand sanding. Most of the vintage style pads finish well on their sides.
Sometimes you then have to finish the back with plugs as wih a silvers pad. The strips of polishing cloth work well here. Also wet sanding with oil will get a smooth finish at the end. For back finishing, personally using the Silvers number 3 pads thag CSMC sells. The back and the corners shape and sand VERY well. Their cheaper "period correct" pad does not sand very well on the face.

I hope this information helps some. Again, this just what i do. It does not mean it is right or wrong. Just what i do and what i have found to work well.

[Craig Larter]

I have simplified the whole process and have had Brian install my pads.Perfectly done every time! No worries about damaging the stock finish.

[B. Dudley]

Another note is that pads can be mounted to curved stocks. Some pads are more flexible than others. I have found that the silvers pads flex pretty well. I have been able to get kick-eez pads on curved stocks also. But, sometimes, the curve in stocks is just too extreme to get the pad to pull down fully in the middle. And sometimes the location of the screw holes can be important on a curved stock. One sikvers pads, i aleays use washers that fill the entire plug hole as to allow for a more even application of pressure on the pad base. This really helps with curved stocks.

The toe and heel angles need to be roughed in while mounted on the stock since it will all change when removed.

Obviously curved stocks complicates things. And also the additon and fitting of large spurrs on a plate add to the complicstions as well.

[Pa SxS]

Brian, I found that using a pointed object for the scribed line can possibly chip the stock finish at the end of the stock. I put blue painters tape on the bottom of the pad, mount the pad and use a fine pen to make the outline. Remove the pad, cut off excess tape and grind to the line. The sander sands the tape along with the pad and it makes seeing the line easy.

[Keavin Nelson]

Good advice from Brian.

[B. Dudley]

Another note is that if you are making a new stock or refinishing an old stock where sanding of the butt is involved. it is a good method to grind the pad down close as i previously described and then do the final finishing of the pad when on the stock and also sanding the wood. Using a sanding block. This will provide an even surface from wood to pad.

This will also work best if using a pad that sands well by hand, such as the silvers and some of the other vintage pads.

A lot of modern pads do not finish too well by hand. Kick-eez pads finish great in the power grinding phase and finish ok by hand. Pachmyer pads are not all that great and limbsaver pads or horrible. Using oil for lubricant can help.

[BRDHNTR]

I'm going to have Dan Cullity install the new Hawkins pad that I have received. Talked with Dan the other day and going to bring to 20 ga Trojan that I just purchased from Mark Kircher to Dan tomorrow. Will also have Dan remove the frame from the stock and give it a good cleaning, the safety slides very sluggishly and I suspect there's a bit of crud or whatever built up. Neither Mark nor I believe the frame has been off the stock for many years so a good cleaning is in order and prudent. I'll be able to take the stock home along with the forend and strip it in acetone and give it a good finish. Eventually I'll have Brad re-case color this Trojan so when I give it to my second grandson he'll have what will look like a new gun and will appreciate it even more (of course after Papa explains the facts of life about proper gun handling and gun care.) I found my old belt sander that I earlier thought was long gone (it still works) but without the bracket I don't dare trying to take down the Hawkins pad. Hence Dan will do it. I want to thank everyone who contributed to this threat that I started and especially Brian who's advice and guidance to all the contributors has been spot on.