Correct Screwdrivers

[C. Aaron Beck]

Wondering what size gunsmithing screwdrivers to buy in order to properly dismantle and reassemble my parker, 10 ga hammer with 3 frame. Would a basic kit include all the necessary or are there odd sizes involved?

[Bindlestiff]

OK guys, here is a good one to add to the FAQs. If we can put together a good answer to this, I'll post it in the FAQ page. You know, clean the screw slot and grind one to fit or do the hollow ground commercial sets work out of the box. How does one know when a screwdriver fits the way it should? .... etc, whatever else I don't know to ask.

I have never taken a Parker apart and do not think I ever will, so I am the last person to answer this one. But, this isn't the first time it has come up on this forum so ..... can someone pull together a comprehensive FAQ answer on the topic?

[Roundsworth]

I have 2 identical sets of hollow ground screwdrivers that I bought about 30 years ago. I do not hesitate to hit the grinder with one to make it fit properly. It really paid off all these years! Cheers!

[OH Osthaus]

the nice thing about the Brownells set is that you can get the wheel with it to grind them correctly and do a custom fit, and you're just doing a tip, you can get another of the same size if you need it.

I am no expert, but, with hollow ground parallel sides, I like a snug fit side to side and very little if any gap in the length of the slot.

[Dean Romig]

I'm with Rick - get two sets and never hesitate to grind them on a precision wheel - don't use the same grinding wheel you use for general purpose shop work.

Hey Robin - bring that ol' 16 ga. hammer gun over some afternoon and we'll grille up some steaks, toss back a couple of beers and I'll show you what makes that thing tick.

[TARNATION !!!]

I took on a couple rough Parkers that have been completely dismantled, one of which is back in service. I am not a gunsmith. I asked the same question a couple years back and got a few recommendations. I decided to go with the Brownells sets.

I found that these sets will have a tip that fits (except for the unhooking pin screw. That screw slot is so small, I found what I needed in a set of jeweller's screw drivers). I did not have to grind any of the Brownells tips. You definitely need the "thin set" as well as the "super set".

The goal is to completely fill the screw slot side to side, depth and full width. So, the very first thing to do is clean the slot of debris, rust, dried hard oil or whatever else might be in there. Toothpicks are a good start but if you need something more aggressive a dental pick can be used. Once the slot is clear of foreign matter, you need to find the tip that best fits the slot. You can succeed if the width of the slot is not completely filled (but almost is). Depth and side to side of the slot are critical to be filled by the tip, otherwise there is a good chance of burring the screw head. This is why the wood shop or mechanic's screw drivers with wedge tips should never be used on your Parker screws. You might get away with it but the risk of damage is high. One screw that is often seen damaged is the "joint pin screw". Unless there is a very good reason to remove this screw, like a severely damaged "joint roll", it is probably best to leave it alone. I've started to believe that all those damaged "joint pin screws" out there are due to someone thinking they would take the gun apart without knowing what that screw does. It is a big screw and looks like it should be an easy removal but it is not. Torque transmitted by hand is usually insufficient. The more one applies increasing torque to no avail, the greater the probability of slipping and damaging the head.

With proper driver tips, patience and perseverance and maybe some penetrating oil if needed, non gunsmiths can dismantle, clean and re-assemble their Parkers. You will also need a small hammer, drift punches (brass or nylon preferred over steel) and six inches of 1/4" dowel.

Here are two links. If you decide to DIY, don't scrimp on the driver sets. Your Parker will thank you in the field or at the range. No commission from Brownells but I'm happy with mine.

Jack


Magna tip super set

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...ER_SETS_trade_

Magna tip Thin Set

http://www.brownells.com/1/1/3693-ma...brownells.html

[M Vollinger]

Hi Jack:
I looked at the links for the super and thin sets. Of the ones you previously recommended, you would buy two of each of these bits for spares and to grind them for custom fits?

1. Butt Plate 360-4 or 360-5 (measured a variety)
2. Grip Cap 240-3
3. Trigger Guard 240-5
4. Front Tang 270-3
5. Rear Tang 210-5
6. Fore end iron 240-3 and 210-3 (front screw)

Thanks,

Mark

per previous post......
With proper driver tips, patience and perseverance and maybe some penetrating oil if needed, non gunsmiths can dismantle, clean and re-assemble their Parkers. You will also need a small hammer, drift punches (brass or nylon preferred over steel) and six inches of 1/4" dowel.

Here are two links. If you decide to DIY, don't scrimp on the driver sets. Your Parker will thank you in the field or at the range. No commission from Brownells but I'm happy with mine.

Jack


Magna tip super set

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...ER_SETS_trade_

Magna tip Thin Set

http://www.brownells.com/1/1/3693-ma...brownells.html[/QUOTE]

[TARNATION !!!]

Mark That is helpful for those who don't want to buy the full sets. Save a few bucks for ammo that way.
Cheers
Jack

[Autumn Daze]

Jack, Where ya been .....long time no hear from ya! You were missed.

[StubTwist]

I was wondering the same thing. Nice to hear from ya Jack!