Lifter 10 ga. ?

[Don Carter]

Hello, New here.
I have a chance to buy a 10 ga. lifter. manfactured 1878,02 frame, fine twist barrel, M grade[best I can tell]. Barrel sound good [ring test], chambers good, barrels pitted [about a medium pitting, could be better] for about the next 6'' ahead of the chambers, wood good [no cracks or chips],locks sharp and crisp, new firing pins, hammers good. The barrels lock up very tight up and down, side to side there is a very slight movement [can't see it but can just feel it] if you don't shut the barrels briskly.
I would like to shoot the gun [Black powder only] and the gunsmith selling the gun says OK with black powder only.
I know opions are hard to give without seeing the gun.
But would the gun by my discripsion be worth paying the $250.00 they are asking? And what about shooting this gun?
The only things that concern me is the pitting and the side movement on lock up.
Thank you
Don

Also this is a straight stock not a pistol grip.

[Bill Murphy]

It's probably safe to shoot with smokeless or black as long as the pressure is on the low side. When you get the gun home, scrub the bores until all the pitting that is going to disappear has disappeared. Be aggressive. If the gun is tight when you snap it shut, snap it shut every time you close it. It sounds like a good shooter. Yes, the price is OK if it has barrels and a stock.

[Don Carter]

Thanks for the reply Bill.
I'm thinking for a load. Using a 12 ga. load of 70-80 grs. of 2f and 1-1 1/8 oz. shot. I will have to measure the chambers for length.
When you say scrub the bore. Are you referring to using wire brushes and some sort of bore cleaner? I asume that is what you ment.
I also have some stainless wool from Bownells. To aggressive?

If I get this gun in the next few day I'll try to post some picture.
I know many of you are familar with these guns but your opions are well worth it to me. This would be my first Parker.
Thanks again.
Don

[Dean Romig]

After the steel wool treatment be sure to swab out the bores very well. The steel 'dust' that would otherwise remain in the bores will rust up in a day or two and leave a real mess. I made this mistake . . . once.

[Bill Murphy]

Once I have run enough steel wool through the bores to determine that what I have is really pitting and not just rust and dirt, I switch to oil soaked emery cloth repeatedly pushed through with a dowel.

[Don Carter]

Well I got the lifter today.
Worked on the bores with course wool and twice as good [rust inhibitor]. Still need to go to the emery cloth. But it looks like pitting. Tried some pictures but didn't come out worth a darn.
Cleaned up the out side of the barrels and receiver some also.
The chambers measure 2 5/8". Bores both measure .800 give or take. Have to look up what that measurement would be.
Like to clean up the wood a bit but not sure how. I don't want to refinish just clean. Any sugestions?


Thanks Don

[Dean Romig]

A furniture cleaner like Fromby's should get the grime off pretty easily without causing harm to the remaining original finish. Use a soft brush to clean the hardened gunk from the checkering. Moderation is key here - you don't want to thoroughly soak the wood with the stuff but just use it sparingly.

[Don Carter]

Clean the bores the best I could [pretty good pitting], cleaned and reoiled the stock.
Loaded some pretty simple [for now] black powder loads. Very low presure.
2 5/8 hull, 70 grs. 2F, fiber wad, 1 1/8 oz shot.
Shot 4 of these round and it didn't blow [no I wasn't holding it].
Don't have a roll crimper as of yet so will try again later.
Don't want to ruin the gun but I do want to run some correct round through the gun before I actually take it hunting.

Don