Parker Gun Collectors Association Forums  

Go Back   Parker Gun Collectors Association Forums Parker Forums Parker Restoration

Notices

Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
Unread 01-30-2018, 09:20 PM   #21
Member
Dean Romig
PGCA Invincible
Life Member
 
Dean Romig's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 31,562
Thanks: 35,442
Thanked 33,042 Times in 12,322 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Graziano View Post
Unfortunately, I tried the Big 45 pad on my LC Smith with Hoppes. It removed the minor surface rust, and a swath of blue. What a shame. Those armor steel barrels will need to go out for reblue.

Joe, that has never been my experience with Frontier pads on any of my barrels.
Dare I say your barrels may have been improperly re-blued sometime in the past?
I don't want to appear insulting but they advertise the Frontier pads as safe for blued steel and case colored steel. I can't imagine what went wrong.






.
__________________
"I'm a Setter man.
Not because I think they're better than the other breeds,
but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture."

George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic.
Dean Romig is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post:
Unread 01-30-2018, 09:55 PM   #22
Member
TxHuntermn
PGCA Member
 
Mark Ray's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,623
Thanks: 4,800
Thanked 2,318 Times in 755 Posts

Default

[QUOTE=Dean Romig;234368]Joe, that has never been my experience with Frontier pads on any of my barrels.
Dare I say your barrels may have been improperly re-blued sometime in the past?
I don't want to appear insulting but they advertise the Frontier pads as safe for blued steel and case colored steel. I can't imagine what went wrong.

I agree with Dean, I have been using them on his recomendation. I will say, if the surface has what i call bottle or cold blue, the pads will take it right off!,, THANK GOD!!
__________________
" I love the look Hobbs, my Vizsla, gives me after my second miss in a row."
Mark Ray is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-30-2018, 11:45 PM   #23
Member
Dean Romig
PGCA Invincible
Life Member
 
Dean Romig's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 31,562
Thanks: 35,442
Thanked 33,042 Times in 12,322 Posts

Default

For those who might doubt... read the small red print.


.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1010101.JPG (444.3 KB, 29 views)
__________________
"I'm a Setter man.
Not because I think they're better than the other breeds,
but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture."

George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic.
Dean Romig is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post:
Ironing out dents
Unread 03-17-2018, 02:27 PM   #24
Member
Campchair
Forum Associate

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts

Default Ironing out dents

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Harm View Post
Try a pad wet with water and a iron on high. Lay the pad over the gouge and apply the iron to it. Keep it moving back and forth. When the steam after a couple of seconds quits coming off it, move the pad to a wet spot and redo. If wood is missing this won't work, but a dent will usually rise. You may have to do it a number of times, maybe 20 or 30, but don't be in a hurry. Brownells sells a little triangularly one with a handle but I just use a old iron I bought for $2 at a garage sale. I've raised many a dent with it and a old white sock with a cup of water.
I’m not sure if the WEN type soldering guns are even sold these days, but I have one I got back in the 1970’s. It was in a plastic suitcase- like box with several accessories. One of these is a tip ending in a small steel square about 1/2”x1/2”. I’ve found it is the best heat source for dent removal I’ve ever used. I take a piece of un- dyed cotton and a small saucer of water. Fold the cloth till it forms a pad 8-10 layers thick. Lay the pad over the spot, then go over it in an ironing-type motion. When it dries out, re-wet it. Been using it for several years and I’ve raised some pretty deep dents.
William Wood is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-20-2018, 12:55 PM   #25
Member
Tom Flanigan
PGCA Lifetime
Member
 
Tom Flanigan's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 865
Thanks: 284
Thanked 1,253 Times in 425 Posts

Default

With respect to the negative comments about Tru Oil, I have used it successfully for years to refinish stocks and also to refresh old finishes. I suspect that the negative comments may be because of the way it is used or the fact that it has to be thinned occasionally.

On refinished stocks, I wet sand the wood with Tung oil and then use my fingers to work the mud into the pores against the grain. I repeat the process, letting the mud dry fully, until all the pores are filled.

Then I rub a small amount of Tru Oil into the stock and wipe it down with an old clean T shirt. This leaves a very small amount of True Oil with each iteration. I re-do the process until I get the depth I am looking for.

I’ve never had a problem with Tru Oil. If used properly, it works well……in my opinion.
Tom Flanigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-20-2018, 03:46 PM   #26
Member
Robert Brooks
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 360
Thanks: 2,431
Thanked 217 Times in 147 Posts

Default

I have done stocks in the 60s with Tru-Oil and they still look great. Bobby
Robert Brooks is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-21-2018, 03:18 PM   #27
Member
King Cobb
PGCA Lifetime
Member
 
Bill Holcombe's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,325
Thanks: 724
Thanked 1,521 Times in 405 Posts

Default

I refinished a VH with Truoil about 6 or 7 years ago. Still looks great. You can find the discussion on here somewhere where Brian Dudley and others were giving me suggestions and info on the process. Also had some good succes with laurel mountain forge. Especially the sealer finish.
__________________
"The Parker gun was the first and the greatest ever." Theophilus Nash Buckingham
Bill Holcombe is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-27-2018, 04:16 PM   #28
Member
Campchair
Forum Associate

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Holcombe View Post
I refinished a VH with Truoil about 6 or 7 years ago. Still looks great. You can find the discussion on here somewhere where Brian Dudley and others were giving me suggestions and info on the process. Also had some good succes with laurel mountain forge. Especially the sealer finish.
This might not be the "right" place for this posting, but since it is discussing stock finishes, I believe everyone that does any gunstock finishing or refinishing should get a copy of "Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (Fox Chapel Publishing) Practical & Comprehensive with 300+ Color Photos and 40+ Reference Tables & Troubleshooting Guides" Pretty long title, but it is a pretty impressive book. Although it is aimed primarily at the furniture builder, all the usual firearms finishes are covered as well (The author even covers TruOil) He enlisted the help of coatings chemists to de-mystify wood finishes. The author takes each type of finish for wood that exists, notes what each of the manufacturers call each type, and then shows what happens chemically as it is applied and dries or cures. He starts at raw linseed oil and finishes with the latest polymer finishes. He answers most of the questions I have had in 30 years of finishing and refinishing gunstocks. He SHOWS how to properly "cut" shellac, do French Polishing, and has hints on application pads you can make, methods of application, etc. Now, I have no connection with the author, publisher, or any booksellers, but I have found it is a valuable tool for any wood finishing project. His discussion of what was available popular for all wood finishing in the 1800- early 1900's might be particularly interesting to those with restoration projects.
William Wood is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to William Wood For Your Post:
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:58 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1998 - 2023, Parkerguns.org
Copyright © 2004 Design par Megatekno
- 2008 style update 3.7 avec l'autorisation de son auteur par Stradfred.