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Worn Hinge Pin?
Unread 12-28-2014, 08:33 AM   #1
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Default Worn Hinge Pin?

I have a 16ga VH that once was my grandfathers. About 8 yrs ago, I dropped it off at DelGrego's for a major restoration (new wood, rust blue, and case colors). There was some play in the barrel to frame fit so I sent it back to Lawrence for repair. Lawrence did something with the fore end so that when the fore end is on, the gun is tight. However, with the fore end off, the fit up is loose, not greatly but I can feel it. Talked with Lawrence about this and was told to not to worry as the fore end was doing its job by tightening the action up fine. I'd like some second opinions as this is a family heirloom that will likely go to my grandson when I pass. By the way, the teal decoy was carved for me by Dave Warner of Oswego, NY when I was employed at S.U.C.O. Oswego in the early 70's and Dave was a student there at the time. If anyone knows of his whereabouts, pls let me know.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 08:43 AM   #2
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The forend is the final piece of the puzzle in a way. But the gun should be tight with the forend off.

The only thing the forend has to do with anything is maintain a tight feel when the gun is opened up.

Your tightness with the forend off is all done with the hook and the locking lug/bolt.

True, that what is really important is if the gun is tight In shooting position (with forend on), but, the forend is not considered an integral part of the "bolting mechanism" per say.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 08:50 AM   #3
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Tightening up a Parker by the forend method involves adding material to the rear of the forend lug on the barrels and filing for a fine tight fit. This process effectively pulls the hook tighter against the hinge pin but also pulls the barrels away from the breech face and as the gun wears more at the hinge the barrels become more and more "off the face".
I would recommend sending the gun to a shop that will properly add material to the hook and finely fit the barrels as they were originally done in Meriden.... then the forend will have to be re-fit.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 09:23 AM   #4
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Opinions on this issue are endless. But some will contend they know more than the experts.

My opinion is that Del Grego is right. Feed the gun mild loads, shoot it, have fun. Don't worry about it now.

If Del Grego thought the issue needed attention during resto, he would have fixed it.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 09:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Campbell View Post
My opinion is that Del Grego is right.
My opinion is that he didn't address the root of the problem but simply put a band-aid on it.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 09:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Campbell View Post
Opinions on this issue are endless.
Ergo est.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 12:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Romig View Post
Tightening up a Parker by the forend method involves adding material to the rear of the forend lug on the barrels and filing for a fine tight fit. This process effectively pulls the hook tighter against the hinge pin but also pulls the barrels away from the breech face and as the gun wears more at the hinge the barrels become more and more "off the face".
I would recommend sending the gun to a shop that will properly add material to the hook and finely fit the barrels as they were originally done in Meriden.... then the forend will have to be re-fit.
Dean,
I couldn't agree more with the above statements. I've watched a well known Parker smith remove the forend metal and peen the backside to move enough metal into the slot to tighten the gun when open. This 10 minute fix makes the gun tight when open but dose nothing to correct the off-face condition which will only get worse with continued shooting.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 01:11 PM   #8
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I remember reading last year I believe, that some one stateside was gearing up to manufacture and sell new roll joints for Parker's ...I think it was Steve Bertram ?

That would be a fantastic way to go and something I'm trying to get my machinist friends to look at for me (when their time allows ).

Other than that...what Dean said .
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Unread 12-28-2014, 01:26 PM   #9
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If I had a bucket full of new roll pins or rolls, I still would have to find a gunsmith to do a good job of installing them. I would rather work with the hook, which anyone handy with a soldering iron can address with shims and files. Don't get the idea that I do this on a regular basis. I have guns that I have owned for forty years or more that are a bit loose on the hinge when open. I don't worry about them. They are just fine to shoot, because they are tight when closed.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 01:47 PM   #10
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I am working with some local sources right now to try and have some Parker parts made that would be very beneficial. Such as replacement and oversized roll joints. Also replacement straight cut bolts for early Hammerless style guns. The other item is high headed buttplate screws that will allow for proper fitting and timing of screw slots.

I have installed some NOS roll joints that were new with no wear to them since they had never been installed in a gun. It gives the extra material needed to rework the hook with no welding. It is a great option, but the lack of usable joints make it a rare option.
The only thing os that the joint would have to be hardened. It is a good option when a gun is being re-cased.

I have a whole bin of used roll joints, but most are as worn or more worn than the one you may be needing to replace.
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