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02-06-2012, 03:23 PM
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More...
Yet more of the Trojan...
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ron belanger For Your Post: |
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02-06-2012, 04:59 PM
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Ron:
Go ahead and enjoy the resto of this one. If you saw the GH flogger that I'm working on now, you'd consider this Trojan an absolute gem! |
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02-06-2012, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
 That's good news! Love to see what you're working on too! |
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02-06-2012, 09:33 PM
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Yeah, pretty pitted up, but not too far gone. Some draw filing and polishing would clean up those barrels pretty nice. And fresh bluing will work wonders. In regards to the action screws. Only that one is real bad. However, Galazan sells the Parker receiver screw sets (Brownells has the same kit too). They come with those screws. They need the heads rounded over and polished, but it is an easy source for all the screws.
__________________
B. Dudley |
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02-07-2012, 04:20 PM
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Is it a case where you can just unscrew one at a time and replace with a new one? Or...does some part inside shift and disable the action when removed? Just curious...ain't no gunsmith here.... 
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ron belanger For Your Post: |
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02-07-2012, 05:18 PM
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That's the best Parker gunsmithing question ever asked. Who will answer it?
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02-07-2012, 05:30 PM
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Ron,
I forget the disassembly of a Parker as it's been so long since I did it. I do have one apart that has been apart for years. But there's a tutorial somewhere on this site about disassembly. I'd recommend you go forward. Little harm can be done to this gun. Ring the barrels to see if they've delaminated. Closely examine the rib solder line for failure with magnification and good light (looks like you may have some solder "touch up" to do at the muzzle as a minimum) Examine the bore and chambers for pitting that would make the gun unsafe (damn few get this bad) Check the barrels for being on face without the forend on. Fix any of the above problems before proceeding (espcially off face problems). Now for the fun... Have the frame annealed first reassemble the toplever and locking mechanism. assemble the barrels on the action before beginning filing of the barrels. take detailed pics of the engraving (not a biggie here with a Trojan) draw file all the pitting out of the barrel outside, checking wall thickness as you go. assemble the forend iron on the barrels/frame before the next part Draw file all the frame/forend iron pits polish as an assembly. If you look at these guns, all the flats are flat and corners are supposed to be fairly sharp. Refer to pics on the web of good original examples. Look at the polishing lines for direction of polishing and grits to use. Barrels typically are taken to a 400 grit (wet/dry paper) finish, same with the frames. KEEP THE CORNERS SHARP (as they were originally). The idea of assembling the barrels and forend iron for filing and polishing is to keep the corners from rolling during polishing which ends up looking amateurish. I'm sure I forgot some things but that should get the thread rolling on what needs to be done |
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02-07-2012, 07:05 PM
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Ron:
As other say, do yourself a favour and find/study the proper disassembly procedure for a Parker. Warning... it is NOT as easy as a standard boxlock to take down. In fact, it's a royal pain in the arse. If you consider yourself "not a gunsmith," it might be worth $50 to have a good gunsmith take your gun to bits for you. Regards the "screws"... They should probably be soaked in Kroil for days before any attempt is made to move them. And only then if the slots have been thoroughly cleaned out first, and perfectly fitting turnscrews used. These guns are almost always clogged with rust and old grease. And a buggered screw is one BIG problem. Best to go slowly... and learn some gunsmithing technique as you go along. Read books and study much... then apply the knowledge with care. Best, Kensal |
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Serious pitting in spots after de-rusting...not sure if this should be gone forward with or not. Anyways, here are some pics of the Trojan after reassembly. Mind you, I didn't touch the side case screws nor disassemble any of the innards except the sears and associated parts to remove the stock. Someone else in history buggered these screws...
Linear Mode
