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08-31-2016, 01:42 PM | #3 | ||||||
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If it is completely flat, as you say, it needs some work. On a 1906 Parker the bolt and bite were designed with a specific taper to prevent the bolt from jamming on the bite and to allow for full contact even as the two metal surfaces wore against each other. It needs to have the proper taper put back into both pieces.
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"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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08-31-2016, 01:53 PM | #4 | |||||||
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Quote:
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08-31-2016, 02:14 PM | #5 | ||||||
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In The Parker Story on pages 96, 130, and 141 the history of the bolt and corresponding bite surface is discussed. In 1905 the mortised and pinned (replaceable wear plate) were patented and put into use in all Parker shotguns and even earlier guns which were sent in for any kind of service were fitted with the 1905 design.
I didn't find any reference to the angle but I seem to remember someone, maybe Dave Suponski (a machinist by profession), saying the angle was something like 3.5 or 4 degrees. Perfectly flat mating surfaces wouldn't cause the bolt to become stuck but an angle of less than the proscribed degree could cause jamming. .
__________________
"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
08-31-2016, 02:55 PM | #6 | ||||||
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Smoking the ledge shows a pretty nice fit with the underside of the bolt. When closing the gun gently, as described at the beginning, all is smooth and wonderful. Snapping shut is likely not advised, but it happens. When it does, it feels like the bolt linkages are over-traveling and becoming wedged somewhat and then hard to extract by working the top lever again. I get that one answer is not to snap the gun shut, but if that does happen, is it normal for a Parker's bolt to overtravel in this way? I've never handled another Parker, so I don't know. The Foxes in the family don't do this, so I'm looking to learn about the expected behavior of the Parker.
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08-31-2016, 03:07 PM | #7 | ||||||
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Try lubricating the surface of the bite plate.
Actually, Parker advised snapping the gun shut to allow for a better locking of the barrels by wedging the bolt tighter on the bite. .
__________________
"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
08-31-2016, 03:39 PM | #8 | ||||||
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The 1905-1909 style wear plates were offered both ways. Straight and tapered. I have observed more that were straight.
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B. Dudley |
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08-31-2016, 09:42 PM | #9 | ||||||
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If this is the same gun that you just put back on face your gun may be fitted a little tight. It may be self correcting with use and lubrication. Just a thought.
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09-01-2016, 11:46 AM | #10 | |||||||
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Should the nose of the bolt come in contact with the space between the bite and the wall at the back of the bite? |
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