CH

chris dawe · 03-03-2011, 05:39 AM

Well bye's ,the blank is in the vice and the chisel's will get the stone after work ....can anyone out there give me some measurement's of the panel shape one the stock ? I have access to absolutely nothing where I live ,the width and length of the main cheek and the same for the teardrop would be of great help...the origional was a capped pistol grip style, oh and before I go what was the lpi of the grip checkering ?

Thank's for all your help fella's
Chris

Dean Romig · 03-03-2011, 05:51 AM

What is the frame size of your CH? Are you making a straight grip or a semi-pistol grip or a capped postol grip? Do you need photos of stocks and grips?

Bruce Day · 03-03-2011, 08:23 AM

Mr. Dawe, perhaps you could announce where you are and there might be somebody who could help.

I think it would be exceedingly difficult to reproduce a C grade stock without having a C grade stock in hand, and the stocks differed by period of manufacture. Apprently yours is an extractor C, that puts it 1900 to 1889, and those years were often thin combs, the little bulb at the nose of the comb, the small peak in the checkering by the pistol grip, lots of little details that make a Parker.

chris dawe · 03-03-2011, 11:21 AM

I figured the the Newfoundland accent may come out in my typing

.....I'm in Newfoundland Canada,and there is no one else here that I know of who could possibly help ...the gun is a #1 frame ,and I will restock it as close to origional as I can ,as I mentioned before it left the factory as a capped pistol grip and I assume parker buttplate,it was shipped in June 1896 .

thank's for your time

Dean Romig · 03-03-2011, 12:19 PM

Chris, unless your letter states otherwise, your CH should have left Meriden CT with a skeleton steel butt plate. I have an 1894 CH on a 2-Frame and I can send some photos of the checkering, etc. but mine is not a capped pistol grip but a round knob or semi-pistol grip. I can either post the pictures here or e-mail them to you...

Dean

Bruce Day · 03-03-2011, 04:53 PM

CH 65,557

chris dawe · 03-03-2011, 05:52 PM

Dean my e-mail address is cj.dawe@hotmail.com ,the letter never mentioned the buttstock treatment...I was hopeing it was a plate cause it would be easier for me to get a hold of

,a skeleton plate is going to drive the project price up .....a lot !!! ,I would love some pic's of your checkering all the same ,and any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Bruce thank-you so much for the photo's they'll be a tremendous help....what type of grip cap should go on mine ,a plain checkerd one or the maker's name type ?

thank's again fella's ,I'll post pic's when it's done

Chris

Bruce Day · 03-03-2011, 06:23 PM

Until about 1903-4, the plain checkered one. But I have a 1910 C with the plain checkered cap and a 1904 C with the Parker Brothers Meridan cap. Go figure.

If you can take some real care and spend a long time doing it, nothing beats the craftsmanship and look of the skeleton butt. But the butt plate might set you back 100-200 if you can find one. The expedient way is to put a pad on it. That's why restocked C's and D's usually have pads. But I love the skeleton butts.

Dean Romig · 03-03-2011, 08:06 PM

Chris, generally if the letter does not address the butt treatment then the "standard" skeleton steel butt plate for grades 3 and higher hammerless guns would have been used.

The only difference between the checkering on mine and Bruce's is in the area of the grip cap on his... but then, where mine has the standard grade 4 or CH curved 'bump' at the upper rear edge of the checkering Bruce's displays a point more common to the grade 3 or DH. Another difference I see is at the top of the grip area immediately behind the top tang.

I would have e-mailed these pictures to you but I'm kind of proud of this gun so I thought I'd share it with everyone.

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Dean Romig · 03-03-2011, 08:10 PM

Here's another... top of the wrist.

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