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Unread 07-25-2018, 02:19 PM   #21
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Wesley
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I bought the gun and do not plan on selling, plan to restore it, hunt it, and eventually pass it down to my son
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Unread 07-25-2018, 03:19 PM   #22
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Welcome to the forums. I am not an expert like most on here, but I believe a 1frame 16 ga VH parker like yours is a very desirable gun. Hopefully the stock dimensions and chokes are suitable for you and your hunting pursuits. You can pattern it on paper to see what the chokes are like, or you could measure the constrictions to determine choke. It would be good to know what the chokes are.

And, hopefully you got it for less than collector value which leaves some meat on the bone for you to spend on fixing the metal. You might be at or a little over resale value at that point, but no matter since you don't plan to sell it.

I am just like you in that I would have the metal that should be case colored done and the metal that should be blued re-done. Then you'd have an excellent skeet, sporting clays and hunting gun that will withstand all the shooting you want to do and it will still be ready for your son after that.
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Unread 08-14-2018, 03:27 PM   #23
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Wesley there is no easy or nice way to say this. The barrels appear to be hot blued. I'm basing this on the barrel sheen and the solder that appears to be missing between the top and bottom ribs and the barrels at the muzzle end of the gun. Also the fact that the barrels were probably reblued when the frame was blued. Any gunsmith that would hot blue the frame would probably not realize that hot blue and soft solder do not mix. Hot blue consists of an extremely caustic substance that turns soft solder (lead) into a salt. It will may hold for a while but I promise you it will eventually let go. The only proper fix is to remove all the ribs, clean them up and remove all traces of the solder on the ribs and barrels, re tin, and solder the barrels back up. They will then need polished and rust blued. Before doing any barrel work the bore diameter, choke and barrel wall thickness and chamber length should be checked. This is not a "do it yourself" project and expect to spend between $600-$900 for the job to be properly done. And that will depend on the barrel dimensions being adequate for repair. Having the frame annealed, polished, engraving redone and bone case hardened will run about another $800. We haven't even discussed the stock yet.

What I'm trying to say is you are looking at an expensive venture and will have substantially more money in the gun than it would ever sell for. And I'm not including what you have in it right now. I'm trying to save you throwing more money in.

I know this is a bitter pill to swallow but the good news is it can be used as a learning experience and all this being said you've gotten off cheap compared to mistakes I've made over the years. I work on these guys now and all I can suggest is PLEASE have a COMPETENT gunsmith check out a gun before purchasing it that can measure the barrels properly, check the stock for repairs or things needing repaired, and overall what has been done and what needs to be done. If the seller is not willing to let you do this, do not walk away. Run. It may cost you $100 but will be the best money you can spend and if they won't let you watch or show you what they are looking for find one that will. Pretty soon you'll know more than 90% of the people that buy guns blindly and "hope for the best". I know because that's what I used to do many years ago. And I lost ALOT of $$$ but gained a great education. All the best, Don Hansen.
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Unread 08-15-2018, 10:50 AM   #24
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True, the gun is a mess, resulting from bad gunsmithing. However, the pictures are nowhere clear enough to pronounce the ribs unacceptable for use. I would use the gun long enough for the ribs to come loose if they are, in fact, incorrectly refinished.
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