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Unread 12-28-2014, 03:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by chris dawe View Post
I remember reading last year I believe, that some one stateside was gearing up to manufacture and sell new roll joints for Parker's ...I think it was Steve Bertram ?

That would be a fantastic way to go and something I'm trying to get my machinist friends to look at for me (when their time allows ).

Other than that...what Dean said .
Chris,
I made a roll joint for one of our members a few years ago just for the learning experience. I would have to say that it would not likely be a "cost effective" way to correct an off-face condition. I've had guns put back on face by adding material to the hook and redressing for a lot less than the cost of a new roll joint.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 03:17 PM   #12
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So would the preferred solution be to send it out to have the barrel hook addressed? In as much as with the fore end on it is tight to the face, I would prefer a longer term solution short of replacing the pin.

And who would be the best shop for this job?
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Unread 12-28-2014, 07:01 PM   #13
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I sent one to Mr. Merrington to look at (same issue , for end pulled it tight) had him put a new roll joint and back on face to finish the restoration and ice the cake.. Figured it this way, she is good for another 100 yrs.. Opinions are just that, but the gun seems to be is beautiful shape, finish her up...
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Unread 12-29-2014, 01:49 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Larry Frey View Post
Chris,
I made a roll joint for one of our members a few years ago just for the learning experience. I would have to say that it would not likely be a "cost effective" way to correct an off-face condition. I've had guns put back on face by adding material to the hook and redressing for a lot less than the cost of a new roll joint.
True,but if you could set up to run out a couple dozen or more at a time it would offset the cost ,I'm sure there's a market ...all it would take would be the right guy with the right equipment ,Parker did it once and the reproduction crowd did it years later,and Galazan must be doing it now ...Just a thought I've always had .

Like others and you have said ,Tig and refit is the most economical ,I've done it many times ....I can't help but wonder though every time one comes across the bench .....Why could no body else ever realize that Dan Lefever's ball and socket was the cure to the problem ? simply ,bloody genius !
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Unread 12-29-2014, 12:20 PM   #15
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With the fore end on I slipped a piece of paper between the breech end and the frame face and closed the action. Paper tight would not slide out.

With the fore end off, I slipped a piece of paper between the breech end and the frame face and closed the action. Paper tight, would not slide out. With he fore end off, I could feel some side to side play between the breech face and frame face. No play up or down, just slight play on side to side basis.

Does that sound like enough play to send out? Or just live with it for time being?
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Unread 12-29-2014, 01:27 PM   #16
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Line your barrel hook with a piece of common aluminum foil and close the action on a piece of tissue paper. If the paper doesn't pull out shoot the gun and enjoy it.
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Unread 12-29-2014, 06:03 PM   #17
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....
Does that sound like enough play to send out? Or just live with it for time being?

1. No

2. Yes
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Unread 12-31-2014, 07:41 AM   #18
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Thanks Bruce.
Steve. I lined the barrel hook with foil as you suggested and closed the gun. No play in action whatsoever but fore end latch would not close (Dean you were correct that any fix to the barrel hook would require re fitting of the fore end mechanism). Since the play is not severe, I'll follow Bruce Day's advice and live with it for now. Thanks to all and Happy New Year
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