PR forend issue

[Bob Jurewicz]

I just reread Frank's 2:47PM Yesterday post. He states he would file under the "nose" of the forend lug. Isn't tight fit result of excess metal on the long surface on the breach end of the lug not under the nose?
Bob Jurewicz

[Dean Romig]

Yes it is Bob - under the nose of the lug should only be filed if the forend closes properly but the latch lever won't seat flat.





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[David C Porter]

That's why I stated if your not experienced or comfortable with doing this send it to someone that is so you don't cause more damage. I've been a stock maker for over 40 years & know how to fit metal, stocks & checker. My word of caution is don't start filing on the metal until you determine if that's the real problem. If you start removing metal & the real problem is the wood then you can make the fit sloppy & then have to weld back metal to the tab. My main emphasis is if you're not experienced in the area, let a pro do it so you don't screw up your gun.

[B. Dudley]

Originally Posted by David C Porter

First you need to determine if the problem is the metal fit or the wood fit.
2. Remove wood & see if the forearm metal will close properly. If it doesn't then remove some metal on the back end of the barrel tab. If the forearm closes properly without the wood on, then the wood is setting too high & interfering with it closing. If that's the case then lamp black the barrel & close forearm slowly & tap to see where lamp black shows on the wood Indicating high spots that will need to be removed. If you're not experienced and/or not comfortable with doing this I'd send it to someone that is experienced in metal & wood fitting. Sometimes if you're not experienced in these areas you can chase a problem & in the end screw the gun up.

I will repeat, DO NOT touch the wood.

[Woodcock survey]

Perhaps no help at all but i have had a 20 repro since 85 and used it quite a bit. It is still very tight, too tight some might say. I was assembling it while talking with some fellow shooters and always have used synthetic grease on wear points. When i went to attach fore end it would not close always having been tight. A little extra grease was all it took to stop it from latching. Grease, dirt, debris, a ding in metal on either side can drastically change already very tight tolerances.

[BRDHNTR]

Both of my repros have tight forends and i plan to leave them that way.

[Frank P]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. The forend wood sits flush to the 28” barrels, but the latch has to be forced down the last 10 or so degrees and even then does not lay flush in its recess.

[David C Porter]

There can be many reasons why the 2nd barrel doesn't latch properly. Added 2nd barrel & not properly fitted. Forearm wood changed. Wasn't fit properly in the begining. There are many on this site that can steer you to a professional that can evaluate & correct the problem. The problem may be a simple fix, or require detailed refitting. If you yourself are not competent in this area don't take on the job yourself since you may create a bigger problem.

[Frank P]

I hear everyone loud and clear. I am not going to attempt any further work myself. I didnt remove much metal at all - just a little dust really, to see if things would work better, and there was some modest improvement. I'll hand it over to a pro at some point. Here's a pic if you're interested.

PR2 by FGP1154, on Flickr

[Bill Murphy]

Wow, what a Repro. The wood is outrageous, even compared to other outrageous Repros.