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Leather faced pad
Unread 07-19-2018, 10:16 AM   #1
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Default Leather faced pad

I've got a DHE which has a leather faced pad which is getting tattered and frayed. Replacing it looks to be rather straightforward, but I'm unsure about what sort of leather to use, or where to find it. Also any suggestions about the solvent to use to remove the old pad?
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Unread 07-19-2018, 12:49 PM   #2
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http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23868

I went to e-bay and found a fine-grained brown leather I liked for about $5. Enough to do a dozen guns. Removed old leather by just pulling it off and then denatured alcohol to clean. I traced the pad on the leather and cut it. Used shoe glue and then did a final trimming when on the gun.

I did not have any luck gluing on first then trimming to pad so I cut it out after tracing the second time. Took two tries because of first attempt to trim on the gun. Wanted a little darker brown so I used brown leather dye after that. No expert here though but a cheap and satisfactory result.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11278567149...&s=ci&mail=sys
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Unread 07-19-2018, 01:13 PM   #3
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Goat skin or Pig Skin is preferred for Leather on pads.
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Unread 07-19-2018, 01:25 PM   #4
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Thanks to all. Will start looking for some leather now
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Unread 07-19-2018, 02:32 PM   #5
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Connecticut Shotgun has the leather. and Brian recommended Barge Cement as the glue. They both worked great for me.

j7l2
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Unread 07-24-2018, 10:30 AM   #6
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Is contact cement the same as barge cement?
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Barge Cement
Unread 08-20-2018, 11:01 AM   #7
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Default Barge Cement

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dallas View Post
Is contact cement the same as barge cement?
Barge Cement = Contact Cement.
Actually, Barge Cement is a contact cement, but it’s about 100% stronger than hobby store/ craft supply contact cement. Not sure if Tandy Leather carries it any more, but (as far as I know) the ACE hardware chain lists it in their on-line catalouge. That’s where I get it. Buy 2 small tubes, more will go bad in time. It’s what shoe manufacturers use to permanently (!!!) bond uppers to lowers, soles to bottoms, etc. Follow the directions, which roughly are: Spread a THIN coat on both parts. Let dry ( I allow at least 30 minutes) Align parts EXACTLY where you want them and press together. DO NOT let the leather wrinkle, trap air pockets, or otherwise go where you don’t want it to go. Best technique is to fit everything together before applying cement. When it is ready, turn thinnest piece cement side up and slowly apply the two pieces at one edge. Check alignment as you progress. Work gradually to join the 2 pieces, “ rolling “the piece as you go. Use an leather folder to “burnish” the top (cement free) side as you go. ( The bowl of a metal spoon will serve this purpose well,too.) It’s very important to remember once Barge cemented items are joined, THEY WILL NOT COME APART! Cap tube securely between uses. It is, hands down, the best leather cement there is.
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Unread 07-27-2018, 06:31 PM   #8
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Change in plans. After taking off the tattered old leather, and examining the now, cleaned up pad, and realizing that the edge is rounded, rather than squared off, I've decided to leave the pad uncovered. What say you? Going to shoo the gun this weekend. If all goes well, I will have a brown goatskin for sale
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Unread 07-27-2018, 09:03 PM   #9
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John I'm with you leave as is. Where are you going to shoot this weekend?
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Unread 07-27-2018, 09:45 PM   #10
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Shooting Clays Sunday at Lewiston Sportsmen's League. If you're up north, come on over
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