Help with a hammerless double barrel teardown

[Chris Wren]

Originally Posted by Samuel Gross

After initial scrub with a stiff nylon brush to get the loose crap.....

Thank you! I did not know that process. I will admit the brake cleaner was a joke, but I knew I was going to have to find way to break the crud up. I will try this process.

[Chris Wren]

Originally Posted by Larry Stauch

Let's get back to this little comment that was overlooked; "The breach opens, and ejects shells,"
Now, did you really mean to say that the shells acutally ejected out of this Trojan or did they just lift so you could grab them?

The dummy shell I used would seat, and when the barrels were opened, the shell was extended out where I could remove it. The shell did not "pop" or "fly" out. My comment was made to say the mechanism that moved the shell was operational.

[edgarspencer]

Are you related to Chris Wren, the architect?
I think he specialized in churches.

[J. A. EARLY]

Originally Posted by Chris Wren

As for the stock, I am speaking with someone now about making a replacement stock since that one is packed full of JB Weld and has some weak spots in it.

Thanks for all the help!

Sinking money into a replacement stock would be financial suicide. Maybe look around for a used stock and have it fitted. Also, I would never put the parts in any water. I usually use a Dremmel tool with a bronze wire wheel at low speed to get junk out of an action, once the floor plate and easily accessible parts are disassembled. Also, no steel wool. Frontier 45 pad for cleaning anything metal on the outside.

[Chris Wren]

Originally Posted by edgarspencer

Are you related to Chris Wren, the architect?
I think he specialized in churches.

Funny you ask. I did a history report on Sir Wren back in high school. While working on that report, I did do some genealogy looking. I cannot find a direct link in my family line to him. I believe I am related, but in the manner that we both share a single ancestor, like he is a loooooooooooooong lost uncle.

Originally Posted by Jerry Harlow

Sinking money into a replacement stock would be financial suicide. Maybe look around for a used stock and have it fitted. Also, I would never put the parts in any water. I usually use a Dremmel tool with a bronze wire wheel at low speed to get junk out of an action, once the floor plate and easily accessible parts are disassembled. Also, no steel wool. Frontier 45 pad for cleaning anything metal on the outside.

It would be "financial suicide" in the aspect of ruining the value of the firearm, or in the aspect of cost involved in creating a new stock? The reason I ask, my boss has a machine that replicates rifle/shotgun stocks. This is a long time hobby of his and he has already commented he will help with the stock if I ask. I also shared some pics of the state of the buttstock. I have no plans to try and reuse this one for anything other than a reference.

On the topic of cleaning, how easy it is to disassemble the hammerhead? When I was trying to get the barrels off, I removed the 2 screws on the bottom plate and lifted it up about 1/8" to get some oil in there, but I did not remove the plate. If/when I decide to remove the plate, do I need to be worried about any springs that may fly out, or will the layout be fairly straight forward? I plan to video/photograph the disassembly to ensure I have documentation of how it came apart.

And on the "financial" aspect, I understand this particular shotgun in its current condition isn't what I would call "high dollar" or a "collector's item", but generally, is this model considered valued around $200-400? Higher? Lower? Sentimental value of this shotgun is priceless and I do not see this ever being sold or transferred out of the family, but I like to keep records, and would like a ball park number should I need to interact with my insurance (god forbid).

[edgarspencer]

Originally Posted by Chris Wren

Funny you ask. I did a history report on Sir Wren back in high school. While working on that report, I did do some genealogy looking. I cannot find a direct link in my family line to him. I believe I am related, but in the manner that we both share a single ancestor, like he is a loooooooooooooong lost uncle.

Wouldn't that have been exciting. Christopher Wren is somewhat of a icon in so many facets of the things I marvel at; Astronomy, Navigation, Engineering and fine instruments. When someone can claim the likes of Isaac Newton as one of his followers, It speaks volumes.
I went to Easter services at St. Pauls many years ago. Just walking through the main archway was enough to bring tears to my eyes.

[ssgross]

Originally Posted by Chris Wren

Thank you! I did not know that process. I will admit the brake cleaner was a joke, but I knew I was going to have to find way to break the crud up. I will try this process.

It's the same process as slow rust bluing, but without the need for initial rusting if you already have an "actively oxidizing patina". There are lots of videos out there to watch. After conversion, it will look cruddy, and possibly still rusty. But what looks like rust will be be very loose and powdery. 0000 steel wool knocks this now loose excess oxide off, and polishes the hard layer of bluing that was formed against the metal. All this is done dry, although some insist on "wet carding" with water.

When you are all done, use a good water displacing oil. anything with rust inhibitors in it will ruin all your hard work, as the finish is quite delicate in this dry state. I have found that plain kerosene is the absolute best. Dunk your parts, or brush on liberally for a barrel and let it set for for an hour or so. Following this use clean oil (again no detergents or rust inhibitors) for your first oiling. After this initial oiling the finish is "set" and you can use whatever gun oil you like or prefer for normal maintenance down the road.

Your frame looks like it has been refinished before. You can preserve its current weathered look and "patina" with the above boiling. If it looks too neglected, you can bring up the finish just a touch with a single careful iteration of rust bluing to make the weathering and age look more uniform, without taking away aged appearance.

[J. A. EARLY]

[QUOTE=Chris Wren;407700]
If/when I decide to remove the plate, do I need to be worried about any springs that may fly out, or will the layout be fairly straight forward? I plan to video/photograph the disassembly to ensure I have documentation of how it came apart.

QUOTE]

We see how you got the stock off without removing the floor plate! The guts of the stock head were gone. Otherwise it would not have come off. The trigger guard rotates off counter-clockwise. Then remove all three screws from the floor plate, noting their positions if they were aligned north south. If not, the long one will go in the back upon reassembly. This will give you access. But duplicating a stock from the one you have will be useless since it is missing its innards. Plus one can't reinstall a stock without removing the sears. It's not hard to disassemble but it takes practice and correct screwdrivers. There will be four parts that will fall out so be careful and note their escape. Photos taken help. I wouldn't go too far but just clean up the receiver/action (hammerhead as you call it). Please join PGCA for more advice/help. You may find your stock for there is a member's section where you can buy/sell and look for parts.

[Dean Romig]

Yup, that stock is junk...

Regarding cleaning, my go-to method is to use a sonic cleaning tank with the correct solvent (one that will not ignite) and let it sit in it for at least 6 hours. More iterations may be necessary but this is the method I use for cruddy internals. I use Big45 Frontier pads externally.





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[David Noble]

Chris, here is a link on the PGCA FAQ section on how to disassemble a Parker shotgun.
https://parkerguns.org/pages/faq/FAQ...yWithPhoto.htm