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09-13-2012, 08:50 PM | #13 | ||||||
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Thanks Chuck!!
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"The Parker Gun"...An Immortal American Classic |
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09-13-2012, 09:48 PM | #14 | ||||||
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Make sure you are loading the right length shell casing.
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09-14-2012, 09:15 AM | #15 | ||||||
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What hotshot said. That looks like a classic 2 5/8" hull trying to crimp like a 2 3/4" hull.
Other considerations. What wad are you using? Cut the hull open and collect the shot, remove the wad with a pair of needle nose pliers, remove and weigh the powder. Start over with the reloading process and weigh both the powder charge and the shot. If the powder charge is, say double the recommended weight, the wad will sit higher in the hull and prevent fold crimping. It is at least one of the above. My first concern would be the powder charge raising the height of the wad in the shell. Last edited by John Farrell; 09-14-2012 at 09:16 AM.. Reason: Fulfillment |
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09-14-2012, 10:06 AM | #16 | ||||||
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They are 2-1/2 inch hulls with sporting 16 wads. I had order G16 wads, I'm gonna call BP and see if it makes a difference. The powder wt is what is called for but the shot is 1 gram short. Does it make that big of a difference? Thank!!!
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"The Parker Gun"...An Immortal American Classic |
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2 1/2" hulls |
09-14-2012, 10:56 AM | #17 | ||||||
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2 1/2" hulls
That is as I suspected on first looking at the photo you included. You can probably stay with the components in the shell, except you will need some overshot cards from BPI or Precision Reloading and roll crimp the shorter shells. Roll crimping is not all that difficult.
BPI and Precision Reloading (1-800-223-0900) have roll crimping tools that are used in a hand drill or bench drill. IMHO the Precision Reloading is the better of the two roll crimpers. The BPI has one roll starter, the PR roll crimper has 4. Makes a better rc. Attached photos of some 16 gauge roll crimped shells. It's not brain surgery. A progressive reloader where you cannot remove the shell during the reloading operation is a problem. A MEC 650 works, you just have to remove the shell after dropping the shot and inserting the overshot card with the wad ram through the wad guide. A MEC 600 jr or other single stage is the ideal. It's slow going, one at a time for the roll crimping, but, the end result is good. JF |
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09-14-2012, 11:04 AM | #18 | ||||||
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Thanks John. Just got off the phone with BP and they're gonna send me some formulas to go with the sporting 16 wads. They also mentioned the filler wad.
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09-14-2012, 01:48 PM | #19 | ||||||
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Angel, I load on MECs so I can't help you with any questions on the PW but I load a lot of of 2 1/2" 16s using the Gualandi SG-16 and the DR-16 wads.
Here's my experience. The SG-16 works best in a 2 1/2" fold crimp hull, without any filler needed. The DR-16 works better in a 2 1/2" hull for roll crimping, without any filler. The DR wad is too tall for a fold crimp load. Both of these are 7/8 oz loads, which is all I load. If you want to roll crimp an originally fold crimped hull the Precision Reloading roll crimp tool works best. I also have roll crimp tools by Lyman & GAEP and these work better on hulls not originally fold crimped. These give a more rounded final crimp where the Precision tool give a more squared final crimp, but nothing wrong with the end result. I do all my roll crimping on a large drill press with a hull vise. Here's another twist. I struggle with getting good looking crimps on RST hulls. Once I have them final fold crimped I run the loads thru my GAEP roll crimp tool which greatly improves the looks. Probably doesn't improve the loads but does improve the looks. Photo below shows the before roll cimp-bottom, after roll crimp-top. Mike |
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09-14-2012, 01:56 PM | #20 | ||||||
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Thanks Mike.
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