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03-21-2012, 02:04 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Okay, I probably should have mentioned that this is a beaver tail forend...any differences between this and the splinter? There is a large screw at the muzzle end of the forearm which appears may be very long...sorry I didn't mention this before...
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03-21-2012, 02:27 PM | #4 | ||||||
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Hello Walt,
Hopefully this wont apply in this case, but before you disassemble the fore end, look closely at the fore end lug connection to the barrels. I've resoldered a few that have become loose and caused the same symptoms that you report. The lug will probably not even appear loose, and the barrels will still ring, but the solder may have failed allowing the lug to rotate slightly. The typical indication of the condition will have the lug appearing solid with no solder visible on the muzzle end of the lug, with a visible linear transition to shiny solder seen at the receiver end of the lug, where the rear end of the lug has lifted slightly. John |
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03-21-2012, 02:32 PM | #5 | |||||||
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Quote:
I'll check this out! |
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03-21-2012, 03:02 PM | #6 | ||||||
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John, Here are some pictures of the lug area...if you can spot anything please advise...it looks pretty solid to me!
Any idea what the little hole is for?? Oops...must have missed the part where you said the rear portion may have lifted...I'm assuming the muzzle end of the lug is the front?? |
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03-21-2012, 09:18 PM | #7 | ||||||
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Some theorize that ribs with no holes had the muzzle end left not soldered shut until after blueing. It's certainly possible to solder the end shut after blueing and not affect the blueing.
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03-22-2012, 05:37 AM | #8 | ||||||
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Hello Walt, in re-examining your pictures this morning it appears to me that that the stub rib located between the lug and barrel flats is integral with the lug. LC Smith guns had the same treatment for their 3" and sometimes Trap grade guns. The treatment was a great way to prevent lug rotation in guns that were likely to be used hard or fire 3" shells. The height difference between the front and back of your lug appears to be a function of design, and if the stub rib is still securely attached, then your lug should be in its original position, provided the shiny solder we see is not an indication of a repair that wasn't properly positioned. I'd start looking at the fore-end as the culprit, as the lug looks ok.
Sorry to have gotten you off track! Good luck, John |
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The Following User Says Thank You to John Liles For Your Post: |
03-22-2012, 07:00 AM | #9 | ||||||
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This could be a case of the wood contacting the barrels and preventing the metal from seating deeply enough to properly latch.
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03-22-2012, 07:35 AM | #10 | ||||||
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Yes, Walt, the long screw at the front of the BT forend must come out. Forend iron is not difficult to remove from the wood on a Rerpro.
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