how far is too far?

[Mike Phelps]

I've been disassembling my parker vh 12 gauge to give it a thorough cleaning and I’m not sure how far I should go with the receiver.

There is still a lot of gunk up around the hammers and inside the bolt group.

I do have the correct screw drivers and have been grinding bits to fit where needed, however it looks the screws on the side of the receiver have never been removed.

Is it worth removing the hammers? I haven't found a good guide to explain how to do this, so I’m tempted to leave it to alone and just continue spraying it down.

I'd also like to remove the top lever, but I don't know if the bolt group needs to be disassembled first.

If I do end up leaving it as is, what is the best way to clean it without removing any case coloring? I've read about carb cleaner, brake cleaner and lacquer thinner as all viable items. So far Hoppes and CLP is working well if i can scrub it with a q tip or toothbrush.

[Pa SxS]

I've never had to take the hammers or top lever off but here is instructions on how to do so: http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6118

Case colors will not be affected by acetone or mineral spirits but they will mess up your stock finish so keep them away from wood. Avoid any type of polishing compound when cleaning the metal as it will take off the case colors.

[Roundsworth]

Every now and then, I run into a situation like yours. I may have an antique rifle torn down to the last 1 or 2 components and run into an issue, such as parts being staked in, etc. I use dental picks, toothpicks, pipe cleaners, and lotsa Hoppe's No.9 solvent to loosen up the crud. My little air compressor is set at 120 PSI and does a fine job of blowing the loosened gunk out. Quite often, I have to repeat the process, but feel that the payoff is worth it by not boogering up screws or grinding flared or staked parts. Brass bristled tooth brushes and bronze wool are great for removing filth without damaging any remaining finish (bluing or CC) OR nicely aged patina. Good luck!

[Mike Phelps]

Thanks for the tips. The mineral spirits has worked well along with some compressed air.

I'm not going to take the hammers out, but I would like to take out the bolt group and top lever. Mine is different than what is described in the steps.

It looks like this:
http://parkerguns.org/forums/album.p...pictureid=1492

The top lever has the duck bill spring.

I was thinking as the bolt group does not appear to be under any tension, I should just have to undo the screws and the pieces will come out. Then I can clamp the spring and get that out.

[B. Dudley]

There are some gunsmiths around that have those ultrasonic cleaners that will get out all the gunk that might be hard to get to. And it usually does not require too much teardown.

[6pt-Sika]

I'm kinda fond of removing the forend taking the barrels off and going no further !

If it requires more then that I take it to a gunsmith I can trust and let him deal with it !

I will however not take a nice double to a gunsmith until he's proven to me on someone else's fine shotgun that he's capable !


I trusted my gunsmith buddy to work on my Westley Richards 12 bore . All it needed was a good action cleaning as it had years of lint from inside a leg o mutton case . Anyway while he was taking it apart I had to leave the room !

Can't stand watching someone work on my stuff

[J.B. Books]

Probably a little over 530 miles or so which for me is a round trip to Larry DelGrego & Sons. A long day trip and it starts about 4:30 in morning when I go. I avoid the anxiety of shipping, Lawrence takes the gun completely apart in minutes, the turn around on the gun is fantastic, parts are there if needed, I learn something every trip, nice people to chat with while there and the peace of mind is worth the gas and time on the road.