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Unread 06-22-2018, 03:20 PM   #61
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Leighton Stallones
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I TOOK MY VH OUT WITH .35 AND .35 AND SHOT SPORTING CLAYS WITH IT RECENTLY. I DO NOT BELIEVE I MISSED ANYTHING BECAUSE OF THE TIGHTER CHOKES AND THE CLAYS DISAPPEARED IN A CLOUD OF DUST. I USUALLY SHOOT .013 TO .015 IN SPORTING WHICH IS MY FAVORITE CONSTRICTION
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Unread 06-22-2018, 06:16 PM   #62
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Tom Flanigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighton Stallones View Post
I TOOK MY VH OUT WITH .35 AND .35 AND SHOT SPORTING CLAYS WITH IT RECENTLY. I DO NOT BELIEVE I MISSED ANYTHING BECAUSE OF THE TIGHTER CHOKES AND THE CLAYS DISAPPEARED IN A CLOUD OF DUST. I USUALLY SHOOT .013 TO .015 IN SPORTING WHICH IS MY FAVORITE CONSTRICTION
Full choke is amazingly effective on clay birds for those who know how to shoot. However, for bird shooting, I believe that the choke that best fits the situation should be used. In my mind that means cylinder or improved cylinder for 25 yards and under and tighter chokes for the average longer range birds. Full choke will really chew up birds such as pheasants and huns at close range over a dog. I use improved cylinder and modified for early season pheasants and modified and full for huns, sharptails and late season pheasants. I like 5's for pheasants for early and late season shooting. I use 6's for huns and sharptails.
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Unread 06-22-2018, 06:21 PM   #63
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I think you are spot on Tom. When I have a tight choke on the sporting clays field I often wait for the pattern to improve before shooting.
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