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Unread 01-20-2011, 03:30 PM   #11
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George Lander
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Chuck: If you know a surveyor, like Raimey Ellenburgh, ask him to tell you how many signed Kentucky Long rifle barrels he has encountered that were used to mark property corners. Read the Parker Story and you will see how few of these early Parkers were made and 140 years later how much fewer of them survive. If you're in to cowboy action guns, my suggestion would be to find a JABC or perhaps a Stevens in good condition & cut it down.
BUT SAVE THE PARKER, PLEASE!

Best Regards, George
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Unread 01-20-2011, 03:58 PM   #12
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A gun as old and worn as that may not be able to take the pounding of cowboy action shooting. If you enjoy bringing old guns back from the dead you will have fun and will no doubt be proud of the results. Damascus barrels in shootable condition can be used with low pressure loads. There is much you need to know about the gun before you do so. Please keep the gun in as original condition as found -or better. David
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Unread 01-20-2011, 04:33 PM   #13
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Hi Mark-

Again, thanks very much for your response and it was very well said by the way. You have given me enough good reason to keep it as orinal as possible. I guess it doesn't matter what type of restoration or reconstruction I do with a common-made parts gun, but there is good reason to keep a Parker like this, although well used and worn, in tact and as original as possible. Thanks very much for the input, and agian, very well said.

Along those lines, I have receivers and some parts for two other Parker hammer shotguns-double barrel hammer action, 10 gauge (S/N 29,929 stright top lever; S/N 50,728 top lever but curved). I have been looking for barrels and forestock for one and I need to install a vintage replacement stock in the other. Not much luck getting parts however, but still looking. When I am done, they will be composite guns, but still worth having.

Thanks for the input Mark. I appreciate it. Chuck
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Unread 01-20-2011, 05:11 PM   #14
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Hi Chuck,

Parkers vary in Frame size but the #3 Frame was the most common for 10 gauge Parkers. A #3 Frame measures exactly 1 3/16" between the center of the firing pin holes of the breach face. To determine frame size just start at a #0 Frame at 1" and add 1/16" for each increase in a whole number.

Dave "Autumn Daze" has a set of 28" twist 10 gauge barrels for a #3 Frame. Look for his posts and send him a PM inquiring what he has in store for them after he uses them for a Parker Pages artical.

Oh, since you are new to the forum you may not know that the Parker Pages is a most outstanding publication with articals written by some of our more learnered members. No kidding, some of these guys can definately research and write with the pros! With a Parker Gun Collectors Association membership comes the Parker Pages. Also, I have found the Parker guys (and a few gals) the most friendly and helpful of any organization!!! I consider Dave "Autumn Daze" and his son friends after introducing them to my BFT, that is my 10 lb DH 10, at the Hidden Hollow shoot last summer.

Membership also includes access to the For Sale, WTB, and Swap and Parts Recycling setions of this website. The barrels are on the Recycling section.

Respectfully,
Mark
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Unread 01-20-2011, 06:10 PM   #15
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Hi Mark-

Wow, you are a wealth of good information. I will look into joining; it sounds like the Parker parts swap and Recycling sections is the place to sell my parts or acquire the ones that I need. I took all my Parkers out and looked at the spacings and frames- here is the intel:

The new 10 gauge-
I measured the spacing on the new 10 gauge, and I came up with 1 1/8", which would make the frame a #2, right? Aside from the firing pin hole spacing, I know it's a 10 gauge because a 12 shell rattles around a bit and 10 fits snug. So this is an older Parker, without frame markings that is a 10 gauge. And based on the measurement, the frame size is No. 2. This gun is complete but I could use a new firing pin assembly and hammer (although I think I can weld the broke part of the hammer).

Parker parts gun S/N 50728 (barrels, forestock, receiver, locks, hammers, all but rear stock)-
Then I dug out my two other Parker receivers- this one also mesured 1 1/8" from center of firing pin hole to center of pin hole. I know this one is also a 10 gauge because the barrels accept a 10 gauge shell. This Parker has a number No. 2 stamped on the underside of the barrels- No. 2 frame, right?. So this one is a 10 gauge with a No. 2 frame.

Parker parts gun S/N 29929 (replaced and unfinished rear stock, receiver, hammers, locks but missing barrels and forestock)-
I measured the spacing on this Parker parts set and again, 1 1/8" not 1 3/16"so this one also is a No. 2 frame. The receiver looks like the other two (width), so what gauge is it? The other 10 gauge barrels look like they would aline with the receiver. So, based on this inspection, what gauge barrels do I look for? 10 or 12? These Parkers didn't have interchangable barrels did they?

Looks like I have a lot to learn about Parker guns for these retorations, including how to find the parts, and what parts to look for. Thanks very much for the help. I appreciate it. Chuck
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Unread 01-20-2011, 06:27 PM   #16
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Chuck,

Parkers are so interesting at least in part due to the many frame sizes. I have a #5 Frame Lifter 10 Gauge and 10's in #4, 3, and 2 Frame sizes. A #2 Frame may accept 12 or 10 gauge barrels (if properly fitted to the action). There were few #3 Frame 12's but you will see them on auction sites if you look.

I do not know the frame size of your new back action gun. Measure the maximum width of the barrels of that gun and your #2 Frame barrels (correct, marked on the barrel recoil lug). The back action 10 ga may be similar to a more modern #2 Frame. I DO NOT think the barrels will interchange. Also, DO NOT try to interchange barrels without removing the cocking hook. See the technical setion and also recent posts of those who got caught by the hook. Just because the frames are the same size does not mean that the barrels can be interchanged. If they are from the same type, i.e. Top Lever Hammer Gun, the barrels may be able to be fitted to the action. If you are lucky they may snap into place. Chances are greater for this if the barrel sets are close in serial number.

Stocks, fore ends, and barrels are hard to find but they do turn up. Keep your eyes open and do not heistate when offered to you. One can always sell but one can only rarely buy.

PS: I own a E Grade Hammerless 10 gauge on a #2 Frame with a set of VH 12 gauge barrels that were fitted to it. The 12 gauge barrels were cut to a bit less than 24" and are not much good for anything. Even with the short barrels the gun weighs 8 lbs! But, it is still neat to have a gun with 2 different gauge barrels!

Mark
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Unread 01-20-2011, 07:30 PM   #17
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Hi George-

That's incredible! I am working on three BP Kentucky long-type percussion rifles, and I would faint of I saw one used as a property boundary stake.

I agree, I have several scatter guns that are shooters and don't need more than that. I am going to keep this old Parker orginal and restrain myself to a light cleaning and hammer repair. Thanks very much for your input and insight. Chuck
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Unread 01-20-2011, 07:47 PM   #18
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Hi Mark-

Thanks for the information. It is very interesting looking at the different variations of frame, mechanics, and form. I got into this by restoring cheap 1853 Enfiles offered by mail order from IMA- they purchased an arsenal in Nepal. I started restoring these 'battlefield' condition rifles for a song. Although clones of more valuable Brittish made by Tower in London, these were $180 and to specifications. My intersts followed the progression of firearme development from flints to muzzle load percussion (rifle, single shot shotgun, some pistols), to single cartridge rifles to double barrel cartridge hammer and hammerless shotgun, stoping with the Winchester lever action repeater. But I got stuck on dbl hammer action shotguns and short guns. All those restorations were straighforward compared to these Parkers!

Your information gives me hope that I will be able to find barrels and a fore end for this one project Parker. It would be just fine with me if a set of 12 gauge barrels and forend would fit the receiver. It seems that the 12 gauge parts surface more often that the 10 gauge. I can complete the other project gun by fitting a stock that I picked up that is pretty close.

I though I saw an ad for a Parker with interchangeable barrels...totally cool. That's why I asked. I bet your Parker with interchangable barrels is a bright spot in your collection. I love the innovention of the antique firearms makers.

Thanks again for your help Mark. Chuck
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Unread 01-20-2011, 08:31 PM   #19
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Hi David-

I think you are right. I am now planning on a light cleaning and a repair of only the hammer and firing pin, with only a touch-up of one spot on the stock. I don't think I am going to worry about the dents in the barrels right now. Thanks very much for your input. Chuck
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Unread 01-22-2011, 05:18 AM   #20
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I would never cut Parker bbls, no matter the condition of the rest of the gun!
Someone, somewhere down the road will thank you for rescuing this gun.
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