Parker Gun Collectors Association Forums  

Go Back   Parker Gun Collectors Association Forums Parker Forums Parker Restoration

Notices

Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
0 grade Rib Relay
Unread 12-19-2010, 01:14 PM   #1
Member
winplumber
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,630
Thanks: 1,756
Thanked 631 Times in 402 Posts

Default 0 grade Rib Relay

Well I started my first relay job gun had a loose top rib so I will give it a try. Did the P Brothers fill the void between top and bottom rib with a type of putty before soldering ? When I removed the rib this was packed in between the two. My bottom rib is tight should I remove and redo also ? I dont see any spacers either . Does the bottom rib start and stop at forend lug and start again to the muzzle
Steve Huffman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-19-2010, 04:53 PM   #2
Member
Autumn Daze
PGCA Lifetime
Member
 
Dave Suponski's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,888
Thanks: 4,375
Thanked 4,047 Times in 1,727 Posts

Default

Steve, Could you take a picture of the barrels before you relay the rib?
__________________
"Much care is bestowed to make it what the Sportsman needs-a good gun"-Charles Parker
Dave Suponski is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-19-2010, 06:40 PM   #3
Member
winplumber
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,630
Thanks: 1,756
Thanked 631 Times in 402 Posts

Default

I will do that, I got ahead of myself I forgot to take a before picture,and when I was sanding in between the barrels I thought I should do the complete trip so I removed the twist pattern well I will have to use a little more solder block when I tin . Live & Learn beats sitting in the house and filling my gut with all the pre season junk .
Steve Huffman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-19-2010, 10:23 PM   #4
Member
Dean Romig
PGCA Invincible
Life Member
 
Dean Romig's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 31,557
Thanks: 35,430
Thanked 33,039 Times in 12,321 Posts

Default

Yes, the forend lug is a seperate piece with the bottom ribs forward and behind it being two individual pieces as well.
Dean Romig is offline   Reply With Quote
Barrel Putty
Unread 12-20-2010, 10:30 AM   #5
Member
Austin W Hogan
PGCA Invincible
Life Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 676
Thanks: 0
Thanked 408 Times in 197 Posts

Default Barrel Putty

Thank you for that observation of the putty between the barrels. I have a heavy two frame barrel set and a three frame barrel set that are of identical weight. The individual barrels are the same diameter, but the three frame set makes up 1/8 inch plus wider, as it should. I calculated that the void volume between the 3 frame barrels would need 1/4 pound plus of solder to fill.
Your account of putty filling the void also supports the need for drilling a vent hole in the under rib when re bluing a barrel set.

Thank you, Austin
Austin W Hogan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-20-2010, 04:51 PM   #6
Member
Parker Bachelder (Brad's Profile)
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 296
Thanks: 177
Thanked 1,925 Times in 202 Posts

Default

Steve,
The manufacturers did not fill the void between the tubes and ribs. The material in your barrels is most likely, old school flux. Early types of flux were quite fibrous and thick compared to modern types. I would not fill the void.
You will need to tin the top rib and prep the tubes, the solder should be applied to the rib. The heat required to set the top rib will certianly loosen the lug and other two ribs. It is important to support these areas to avoid a big mess.
If you are bluing barrels with rib leaks, we reccomend removing the keels rather than drilling holes. It will allow the moisture to escape.

Brad
Brad Bachelder is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Brad Bachelder For Your Post:
Visit Brad Bachelder's homepage!
Unread 12-20-2010, 06:08 PM   #7
Member
winplumber
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,630
Thanks: 1,756
Thanked 631 Times in 402 Posts

Default

Thanks All Any help is taken with joy.
Steve Huffman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-26-2010, 08:08 PM   #8
Member
winplumber
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,630
Thanks: 1,756
Thanked 631 Times in 402 Posts

Default

Heres my first attempt at the rib relay... Ive been having alot of fun with this.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC07088-1.jpg (172.2 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07089.jpg (268.1 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07131.jpg (118.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07133.JPG (103.1 KB, 42 views)
Steve Huffman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Steve Huffman For Your Post:
Unread 12-28-2010, 05:42 PM   #9
Member
Bill Murphy
PGCA Lifetime
Member Since
Second Grade

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15,521
Thanks: 6,118
Thanked 8,780 Times in 4,716 Posts

Default

I don't see any jigs, wires, or spacers. Tell us exactly how you are going about this project. By the way, congratulations on your attitude about this job. I would not be "having a lot of fun".
Bill Murphy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-28-2010, 06:33 PM   #10
Member
winplumber
PGCA Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,630
Thanks: 1,756
Thanked 631 Times in 402 Posts

Default

Bill there was none there when I removed the top rib ( I dint remove any of the bottom) so If the ribs did the job for 100 + years I think it will go another. I removed my wires and stuff after soldering.
Steve Huffman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:33 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1998 - 2023, Parkerguns.org
Copyright © 2004 Design par Megatekno
- 2008 style update 3.7 avec l'autorisation de son auteur par Stradfred.