Trojan 16 Guage Restoration

[B. Dudley]

Must have been sold to a dealer at wholesale price or something. I think at that time the Retail price of a Trojan was around $26.00

[Kensal Rise]

Larry:
It's your gun, but personally I would not touch the metal parts of this gun. They are in fine "classic" condition. If you want the wood helped a bit, fine. But it seems rather silly to destroy the beautiful patina and character of age this gun has. Not to mention its bodger-free condition. I'd simply lubricate it and put it back into the stock for another century.

Best, Kensal

[Larry Angus]

Kensal,

That is exactly what I am going to do. I only reworked the wood because the butt pad that was placed was rough and alway got negative comments when showing the gun to layman and expert alike. All serial numbers match including the wood and I am looking forward to getting it into service as soon as I can.

I will post an "after" pic when I get the wood back from Turnbull.

[Rod N. Gunn]

Good luck with your project. A couple years ago Austin Hogan suggested here that one use a "board" to keep track of screws (that way they all go back in the hole they came out of and therefore line up properly when the gun is reassembled). I have found this to be a really helpful tip (there are certainly other ways to do it but it works for me).

[Bill Zachow]

The $19 price was most likely the wholesale or distributor's price. The various Parker catalogs and price lists quoted retail prices. Thus, in general we are more familiar with those prices. As an example, we are all familiar with the Parker DH as a $100 gun. That gun, however sold for less than $70 to a retailer.

[Larry Angus]

I got the checkering restrike job back from Turnbull and I am ready to put everything back together. BTW the wood looks fantastic, I couldn't be more pleased.

I need a little advice on cleaning the innards of my frame. I don't think this gun as been apart since it left the factory in 1914. It is not gummed up, instead it has a dry black coating on everything. I was thinking of cleaning with ultrasound, but I do not want to remove the patina on the outside of the frame. What chemicals should I use on the inside of the frame. Also, once cleaned, I usually lubricate my other gun's sears and metal-on-metal parts with a light coating of moly paste. Obviouly, one does not want and abundance of oils and lubricants permating the wood as it leaches out of the frame. I am new to Parkers so I want to proceed with care.

Thanks - advice appreciated.

[Larry Angus]

OK, I could not wait, got a burst of energy and cleaned up the Trojan's guts and after the third try got it all together. Here are the pictures. All serial numbers including the wood match the only modification was the addition of the limb saver butt pad and the rework of the wood. Ready for practice and the chuckers and pheasants.

The Trojan 12 restock project is next. I sure learned alot about the insides of these guns. Many thanks to Brian Dudley's albums and advice on disassembly and assembly.

[B. Dudley]

It looks great Larry!

[Kensal Rise]

Larry:
If you've got the gun to bits, then ultrasonic is best. If not, good old automatic choke cleaner works well. Spray the heck out of all the crevices you can find, scrub with a toothbrush, etc. and let it dry for an hour or so. Then spray with WD-40 and let the excess run out (down) overnight. Wipe the remaining off, then lube the bolt and other moving parts with a Q-tip and LSA oil. Heavy grease is not the way to go. It will catch and hold all combustion crap and gum up your gun.

Best, Kensal

[Larry Angus]

Last question before I let this restoration discussion rest, go to the bit bucket, or whatever the moderator does with old conversations.

My Trojan 16 has pearl beads. I have noticed that most trojans an some VHs have brass beads. Was pearl beads an upgrade or did my grandpa just get lucky?

Thanks again to all for the great advice.