Titanic Steel

[gerrydelmonico]

How good was the T13 Titanic Steel that was produced in the 1930's Parker? Will it handle "modern" 2.75" hunting loads?

[Dean Romig]

The steel will handle the loads but remember that the wood is old and could crack or split under heavy loads. Most of us generally try to keep the pressures down by buying ammo that is made for older guns. Today's "off the shelf" ammo is made to pretty heavy standards so as to operate autoloading guns without a problem.






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[gerrydelmonico]

Good advise. Thank you!

[J.B. Books]

Rule of thumb, pressure stresses barrel steel, recoil stresses wood stocks. Your titanic barrels if they have what is considered "servicable" barrel wall thickness will handle current factory loads. However, as you increase both payload and velocity you increase the force of recoil. The contact points between receiver and stock are small. Age does not make wood stronger. Stick with what are moderate velocity, lighter payloads. This is much easier to do if you reload. If you are like me you will be pleasantly surprised at the performance of lighter loads, 7/8, 1, and 1 1/8 ounce out of 12ga and 3/4 and 7/8 out of a 20ga, again at moderate velocity, 1100 to 1250 fps.

Best shells for any old shotgun are, lower pressure, lower velocity, lower shot weight. I really recommend you get into reloading if you are going to shoot old guns on a regular basis. It simply opens up so many possibilities. The problem with factory hunting loads are the premium stuff are generally heavy loads in terms of recoil and the "bargain" loads are put together with inferior components (giving poor patterns) such as soft lead shot to save money.

If you don't reload, remember you are shooting a graded Parker, check out RST shotshells, they are pricey but many of the loads were designed for use with older guns.

Finally, most cracked stocks are the result of loose screws that hold the stock in place. Keep them tight. However, don't put a screwdriver on your gun unless the screw driver fits and you know what you are doing. If you don't have either, take it to a trusted professional.

[Dean Romig]

Thanks Duke.

[J.B. Books]

Originally Posted by Dean Romig

Thanks Duke.

Your welcome, next month I am thinking the Skipper from Gilligans Island or maybe Gilligan

[Dean Romig]

Or the Professor...

[C.O.B.]

Bruce I have a bunch of Remington Express #6 16ga loads. I used to use these when I had a Browning Sweet Sixteen but won't use them in MY Parkers. Are you comeing to the U.P. shoot ot The Southern? I'll sell them cheap.

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by Bruce Day

I didn't know I wasn't supposed to use those shells.

Bruce, I'm guilty once again of generalizing. I should have taken into consideration the fact that there are those who shoot "off the shelf" ammo in their old Parkers... so, please excuse me. No offense intended.

Personally, it matters not to me what others choose to shoot in their old doubles. But I would suggest those new to the game of collecting and shooting these fine old guns to simply err on the side of caution.

[J.B. Books]

[QUOTE=Bruce Day;32378]

Originally Posted by Dean Romig

........ We all generally try to keep the pressures down by buying ammo that is made for older guns........quote]



Gee, I didn't know that was what we all generally do. Last weekend on Kansas pheasants that were getting up long, CH shot the Rem Express Long Range 1/4oz at 1330fps for his 12ga Titanic barreled DHE and I was shooting Rem Express Long Range 1 1/8oz at 1295 through a PHE 16ga fluid steel. I also used a CHE 16ga Bernard damascus and was shooting Fed 1 oz out of the box loads. I lent a CHE 12ga with fluid steel barrels to another fellow and he was shooting out of the box Fed 1 1/8oz loads. Years ago Art Wheaton got a pallet of free pheasant loads from Remington for us to use in our Parkers and I ended up with a case of 12 ga Express Long Range and a case of 16 ga Express Long Range. I've been using those for the past 7-8 years now for long range birds. I didn't know I wasn't supposed to use those shells.

It is personal choice whether one uses light/moderate loads or heavy/stout loads. Without seeing "the" gun in question I think it is always good advice to recommend use of a light/moderate load. I have run plenty of heavy loads through fluid steel Parkers built before the '20's. I didn't hurt them as they are solid guns with tight stocks. However, after I started reloading light/moderate loads, especially the 7/8 ounce 12ga and 3/4 ounce 20ga I found I was giving up very little in observable performance on clays but lost a lot of recoil. Another bonus is that the cost of lead shot makes up 45-55% of the cost of each reload, lighter loads stretch your dollar too.

About the only time I shoot a heavy load is for waterfowling, however I recently stepped up to a 10lb NH 10 bore. I have found that gun with 1 1/4 ounce load will fold a duck or goose like a cheap suitcase if I do my part.

Light/moderate loads, gentle on your gun, gentle on your shoulder and gentle on your wallet. Like Mikey said in the old comercial, "try 'em, you'll like them"