question

[charlie cleveland]

took my stock off my parker d h 10 ga...as i took thetrigger plateoff a small oblong piece fell out of the gun...i m not sure how or were it goes can any body help.... charlie

[Big Friend Ten (BFT)]

Charlie,

Look at the Parts Illustration in the Technical Information page of the PGCA main page, http://parkerguns.org/

Is it part #20, the Trip? The Trip holds the Top Lever to the right when you open the gun.

[Kensal Rise]

Charlie:
Sounds like you're not familiar with Parker disassembly. Best to get a good take-down book, study it, and proceed slowly. I hope you know that the sears must come out before you remove the wood...

Best, Kensal

[charlie cleveland]

kensal your correct this is my first takedown...but to be honest a friend of mine who it really good with lc smiths and just about any thing else is the one who has actully took apart the gun..the little piece fell out when he took thetrigger plate off...he has pinned my broke stock that it did have and now ive got to go over too his place and see what acually has fell out...i believe it will be the little part that richard flanders said to get you a towel when dismantling a parjer when taking the trigger plate off but i will not really know until i see thegun sometime this week... your rite i need to get me a book and study a lot...willhopefully find where this part belongs with yalls help.... charlie

[Old and Reliable]

With LC Smiths you want the hammers left cocked when you dis-assemble. The others are right here Charlie- with Parkers you first need to snap down the hammers (use a soft wood block against the face of the receivers, and you have to drive out the rear sear axle pin before the stock can be removed from the receiver- as always, with fine mechanisms- go slowly.

[Big Friend Ten (BFT)]

Charlie,

If you print the pictures of the Illustrated Parts I listed in my first post and use these step-by-step directions you should not have any problems.

Parker Disassembly

Removing the stock isn't all that difficult, but it does require a few tools and a LOT of care. The most important things you will need are a screw driver or three that actually FIT the different sized screws, a non-marring drift pin to drive out the sear pin, and a non-marring hammer (plastic-faced, etc).

1. The first step is to dry fire the gun on snap caps, remove the fore end (so as not to re-cock the hammers), and then remove the barrels.

2. Next is to remove the screw in the trigger guard (by the serial #) and gently lift the guard from it's inletted bed (pushing forward on the guard may help),

3. then unscrew the guard from the trigger plate by revolving the whole guard around the front stud about 4-5 turns.

4. Under the trigger guard you will find another screw head which you can remove next (the tip (other end) of this screw is visible on the top tang by the safety).

5. Next, you can remove the large screw under the top lever. This requires a different size screw driver.

6. Next, remove the three screws in the trigger plate. (Note: it may be easier to remove these screws if you only break each screw loose sequentially, a little at a time. If you completely loosen them one at a time, the last screw may be under an uneven strain and be more difficult to break loose).

7. After these screws are out you turn the receiver over and use a wooden dowel, or a non-marring soft-metal drift inserted into the rear of the slot in the water table and tap gently to drive the trigger plate from the bottom of the frame.

8. At this point the stock will become very loose and floppy on the receiver, but you CANNOT remove it yet! Be very careful as the trigger plate comes out, making sure that the stock doesn't jump around and break some of the wood in the fragile head portion. Also be sure to catch the cocking slide which rides just inside the trigger plate**.

9. Once the trigger plate is off, the final step is to remove the sears. If you try to remove the stock without removing the sears, you WILL break the stock. This is the reason you let the hammers down before you even began. Pay careful attention to how the sears are oriented (draw a picture if you have a poor memory).

10. The sear pin is visible on either side of the outside of the frame at the lower rear corner. Using a drift slightly smaller than the sear pin, carefully drive it out the other side of the receiver, removing each sear as it is cleared by the pin.

11. You may now remove the stock. There will be a few parts left in the stock (safety mechanism, automatic safety rod, main screw ferrule) but it is not necessary to remove these for normal cleaning.

12. You can clean the receiver out with your favorite gun solvent, then blow the crud out with compressed air.

13. After it is clean to your satisfaction, spray the inside with something like RemOil, wipe most of it out, and add a drop of gun oil to each joint between moving parts.

14. While you're at it, now would be a great time to add a coat of sealer (like Tru-Oil) to the inletting in the head of the stock, to keep gun oil from ruining the wood. Don't let it collect in puddles anywhere, because the fit between wood and metal is a close tolerance.

15. Re-assembly is the reverse of the above, except that you must make sure to engage the safety slide on the tang with the safety lever in the stock as you slide the receiver back into the stock. This is a little tricky, so make sure it works properly before continuing.

16. The sears go back in next, the pin is driven through, and the cocking slide is put in place to engage the cocking hook and hammer notches,

17. then the trigger plate is put into place and tapped with a plastic-faced, etc. hammer until it is fully seated.

18. After that, it is just a matter of replacing screws.

Do all work with the receiver firmly supported in a vise with soft jaws. To not do so is to invite ruined screw heads, broken inletting, etc. There are a few operations (like removing the sear pin) that will be easier out of the vise, but be very careful! For screw drivers, you need the hollow-ground tipped ones, and will likely have to shape the tips with a file a little to get proper fit in the slots."


** In addition to the cocking slide, keep an eye out for the trip spring and pin which may also leap out. For identification of these parts see the "Technical Information" section of this BBS. Cocking Slide is #13 and the trip spring and pin #20 (aka: Paker Poker - what you push to return the top lever for breakdown storage of the gun).