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11-07-2009, 08:32 AM
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I'm in agreement with Steve. Only the forarm needs some attention. I agree with your assesment that the gun was probably restocked. You can contact DelGrego and confirm this.
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11-07-2009, 11:04 AM
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In my experience they will tell you if they worked on the gun but don't like digging out the old records to find out what they did. If you are having more work done they might be more inclined to pull the file. I too agree that the forend should be the focus of any further work on your gun. It looks nice!
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11-07-2009, 11:32 AM
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Ken ;Congrats on your first Parker , very nice looking gun ,now that you got the bug ,it won't be the last ! I doubt you will find out much from the Del Grego's about previous work on your gun ,I have contacted them a few times about a gun I thought they may have done ,they will tell you anything you want to know about Parkers ,except that ! At least in my experiences . Good luck with your new gun !! Russ
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Ref. repair question | |
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11-07-2009, 02:18 PM
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Ref. repair question
Thank you all for your feedback, I would appreaciate any thoughts on
how to tackle the forend. Ken |
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11-07-2009, 02:34 PM
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gentlemen, while we are on the subject of repairs, I have a ten gauge grade three hammer gun that the right hammer will not stay cocked. I have taken the side plate off and every time find the spring has slipped off the post that it attaches to. the gun inside is clean as a whistle. any ideas or should this go to delgrego? is it larwrence or larry you talk to. thanks for any info Gary Carmichael
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Fixing Lock | |
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11-07-2009, 04:12 PM
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Fixing Lock
Gary; I have had to repair two locks with that trouble recently. The first was OK after cleaning and reassembly. The second seemed OK after squaring the notch, but would not stay cocked when mounted on the gun. I found it necessary to transplant the trigger spring (the small one at the back of the lock) from another lock. I use a pair of the small, "needle nose" vise grips as a spring compressor. This makes it easy to properly seat the spring.
I would advise removing all the lock parts, cleaning in an ultrasonic tank if possible, with kerosene and a brush otherwise, and reassembling with the vise grips. If the spring still slips, try exchanging it with one from another lock. There is some difference in lock parts among grade 0,1,2 and higher grades. Best, Austin |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Austin W Hogan For Your Post: |
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11-07-2009, 09:06 PM
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Ken, the forend wood should be seperated from the iron, latch and tip. Then It should be stripped of its finish and finally should be soaked in acetone to leech out any oil in the wood. You may find by doing so that the wood will be lighter than what you see now. Next step is to re-cut the checkering and finally to apply the appropriate finish.
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11-08-2009, 09:05 PM
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After stripping and degreasing as suggested, scrubbing with a strong solution of TSP in water will often bleach/lighten the darkened wood. The water will usually turn dark brown when this is done. I used to soak them in TSP but found out the hard way that if the wood is really punky the solution will dissolve the surface wood, resulting in the surface being lowered, i.e. leaving the wood below the surface of the adjoining metal (ouch!). But a good thorough-but-brief scrubbing will not harm it while helping to lighten it. Sometimes it works wonders. On the other hand I have a forend right now that I've done everthing to and it just won't lighten.
Jim |
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Linear Mode
