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Can I reload old fashioned paper shells?
Unread 09-30-2011, 02:10 PM   #1
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Default Can I reload old fashioned paper shells?

I'm new to shotshell reloading, but have used all kinds of reloading tools for rifle and pistols for over half a century.

Here's what I want to do: Use a Lee Load All to reload old fashioned paper shells with a roll crimp. Does that happen anymore?

Am I stuck with plastic cases, a star crimp and plastic shot cup wads? Is it that much easier to use plastic wads and cases rather than paper shells and fiber wads?

If it is too much of a pain to reload paper shells I'll go ahead and use plastic, but I miss the feel of a paper shell in my hand and those old fiber wads flying out there in front of me.

Does anyone out there use the Lee Loader Load All? I've used those old Lee rifle/pistol hand loading tools since I was a kid and since I don't reload hundreds of rounds they work fine for me. They are also simplier and simple is good.
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Unread 09-30-2011, 03:18 PM   #2
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Steve,If you are going to get into reloading I would suggest buying a MEC reloader. They are a great machine and can be had on the used market in 12 gauge for short money. Others will chime in here on reloading paper shells. Quite a few of our members do and nothing beats the smell of a just fired paper shell.Well....almost nothing.
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Unread 09-30-2011, 04:14 PM   #3
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In the old days, I reloaded Federal Papers exclusively with plastic wads and Red Dot powder on both a Ponsness and Mec. They had the 6 star crimps and of course the smell was like perfume

While I've never used a roll crimper, there is no reason you can't roll crimp them and use either felt wads or plastic wads. Certainly it's faster and easier to use plastic wads. I guess it all depends on how many shells you have to load. If you only use them for hunting it wouldn't be too time consuming but if you shoot a lot of clay targets, it could get take you a long time just to load 100 shells. If you really want to use fibre/felt wads, you can get them here: http://www.circlefly.com/ Do a search for other threads on this site for suggestions on roll crimping.
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Unread 09-30-2011, 06:16 PM   #4
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-Steve, it may depend on how old your paper hulls are. Reloading data revolves around individual hull designs.
-In the case of modern plastic hulls, there can be numerous internal differences amongst each manufacturer's offerings. There are two types of Remington 10 gauge hulls, for example. One is for lead loads and the other is for steel loads. There is actually quite a bit of difference in the internal volume between the two.
-Anyways, without beating this up too bad, your choice of hulls may make proper load data difficult to obtain without consulting out-of-date loading manuals. I don't have any old manuals, but I am sure there are more than a handful out there amongst the seasoned handloaders.
-I just started loading shotshells for my short tens and have consulted the DGJ and Sherman Bell's tested loads. So far, so good.
-I use a roll crimper from Precision Reloading and it works wonders! I applied a wee bit of paste wax to enhance the operation. I bet it would work great on paper. Cheers!
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Unread 09-30-2011, 06:49 PM   #5
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I don't know if they are old fashioned, but Federal sells hundreds of thousands of rounds of newly made paper hulls every year. I buy 5-6 cases every year. I get at least one, maybe two reloads out of them, less than plastic hulls. I use a MEC progressive loader. The Hogdan reloading manuals list loads for them, have you looked there?
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Unread 09-30-2011, 07:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Bishop View Post
In the old days, I reloaded Federal Papers exclusively with plastic wads and Red Dot powder on both a Ponsness and Mec. They had the 6 star crimps and of course the smell was like perfume

While I've never used a roll crimper, there is no reason you can't roll crimp them and use either felt wads or plastic wads. Certainly it's faster and easier to use plastic wads. I guess it all depends on how many shells you have to load. If you only use them for hunting it wouldn't be too time consuming but if you shoot a lot of clay targets, it could get take you a long time just to load 100 shells. If you really want to use fibre/felt wads, you can get them here: http://www.circlefly.com/ Do a search for other threads on this site for suggestions on roll crimping.
I am going to start off easy. I do think I'll buy a Lee Load All in 12 gauge, use plastic and plastic wads. Seems the easiest. Then I'll evaluate my successes and see what else I can do. I load for a lot of old rifles, a 577 Snider, 577/450MH, 45/70, .303 British, 7.7 Jap; stuff like that. When I was a kid everytime I bought an old rifle I'd spring for a Lee Loader. In those days they made them in almost all calibers and I still use them today. Lee Loaders are no longer a hot item, but it takes me as long to load up 20 rounds in an old Lee Loader as it does to set up my dies if I'm using a standard press. Except for when crimping the rounds are fine.
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Unread 09-30-2011, 08:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Day View Post
I don't know if they are old fashioned, but Federal sells hundreds of thousands of rounds of newly made paper hulls every year. I buy 5-6 cases every year. I get at least one, maybe two reloads out of them, less than plastic hulls. I use a MEC progressive loader. The Hogdan reloading manuals list loads for them, have you looked there?
I have not even purchased my press. I'm just in the "Think I'll start reloading shotshells phase."

I'm going to be totally honest here. I've always been put off at shotshell reloading because it seemed so complex. How can that be? Loading for rifles/pistols has always been pretty easy. I've been reloading rifle/pistol rounds for decades. My entire adult life. Also, historically, shotshells weren't that expensive. I'd buy a case or two a year and they'd tide me over. Now I'm entering this damascus shotgun phase and while I can buy Polywad and RST shells...I'm thinking about reloading. I want to charge up some non-toxic 16s too, and I can never find non-toxic shells for my 16s locally.

I also want to load some heavy 12s; non-toxic that I can shoot in my Win Model 12s. I could kill a dozen geese daily outside my back door with a baseball bat - nearly. It's posted however, and I have to drive about a mile to get to legal shooting.
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Unread 09-30-2011, 09:44 PM   #8
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Steve

I have the Lee Load All in 12ga and 16ga. My recommendation would be to listen to Dave's advice and look for a used MEC for a bit more money. As far as non-tox shot, consider Nice Shot http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm...Code=NICE_SHOT
Expensive but I doubt you'll be disappointed with it's performance.

Cheers
Marcus
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Unread 09-30-2011, 10:00 PM   #9
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Steve,

I think you are over thinking reloading shot shells especially if you have been re-loading pistol and rifle as long you have. I believe it is easier. It is essentially the same as metallic reloading but just using different components. Re-size the hull and de-cap the primer, seat new primer, add powder, insert wad, add shot, and crimp. Just follow the recipes exactly provided in the loading book or from the powder manufacture and you'll be fine.

And the advantages is just like metallic reloading. For 357 Magnum for example you can load 158 grain SWC lead plinkers for the range, easy on the shooter and the gun or switch to full house flame thrower loads with Winchester 296.

For Damascus barrels and 100 year old wood, I like IMR 7625 powder, 1 oz. of shot for my low pressure loads. (5100 PSI, 1050 velocity) So I don't have all this extra powder, I also like 7625 for my plinker 44 Magnum loads using my pre-29 Smith revolver and I get pretty good accuracy from 25 yards. It's dirty and smoky but the clays or the birds never knew the difference.
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Unread 09-30-2011, 10:35 PM   #10
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What Frank said! I was apprehensive about loading shotshells for the same reasons. My 'Laminated' and 'Twist' barrel short tens require special ammunition, so I had to confront my fears and get on with it! I use Hodgdon Clays for a nice one ounce load in 2-7/8" 10 gauge shells for my Baker. I have not tried the gun on grouse yet, but testing clearly displayed deadly patterns at 40 yards. Good luck!
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