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Parker Titan 1920 model Barrel Detachment
Unread 07-08-2012, 10:19 AM   #1
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Glenn Hancock
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Default Parker Titan 1920 model Barrel Detachment

I've got a 1920 model Titan that my Grandfather gave me a few years back. I've started shooting skeet with it and I'd like to give it a good cleaning. My first problem is I'm not sure how the barrels come off. It has a pin holding it but its not wanting to slide out easily and didn't want to beat on it until someone could tell me the proper way to remove the pin?

Also, is there a video or instructions on how to properly clean the gun? I'm more than certain that it hasn't had a good cleaning in a very long time.

Thanks,

Glenn
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Unread 07-08-2012, 11:48 AM   #2
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Glenn--Do you mean a Parker Trojan! If so, the forend just pulls off. Just put your index finger under the tip of the forend and pull straight down. If it does not budge, loop a piece of ribbon under the tip that you can then wrap around your hand and pull straight down.
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Unread 07-08-2012, 11:48 AM   #3
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If it is a Parker shotgun, it is a Trojan model, not a 'Titan.' If its a Trojan, the barrels should come off the receiver after you remove the forend, held tight by a friction fit. Don't use any tools to try to remove the forend; sometimes something dull and blunt like the handle end of a tooth brush can help lever the tip of the forend up and won't mar either the bluing on the barrels or the forend wood inside the tip.

If the barrels don't rotate easily off the receiver, you have other problems: probably the cocking slide inside the receiver is not travelling its proper distance, unhooking the cocking hook on the lug of the barrels, which releases the barrels. Nine times out of 10 this is a result of congealed grease, oil, dirt, and other gunk inhibiting the correct travel of the cocking slide; in rare occurrences it may be a broken return spring in the slide.

If by "pin" you mean the main large screw head in the joint roll or break (where the receiver meets the forend), DON'T try to remove it - the joint roll and accompanying screw is a press-fit unit requiring tremendous pressure to remove (usually by using an arbor press). Trying to remove the screw only will result in a buggered screw head, guaranteed.

Try releasing the hammers (fire the gun) with the forend off the gun; this usually releases enough spring tension on the cocking slide to disengage the cocking hook on the barrels; if this doesn't work the action needs to be disassembled, a job for a gunsmith who is familiar with the Parker Gun, not a job for amateurs. Hope this helps
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Unread 07-08-2012, 11:53 AM   #4
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Hello Glenn , Not sure what you may or may not have here but I will take a shot at it ! If the Barrel Rib states ,Titanic Steel ,what you probably have is a D Grade or possibly a C ,if you are having problems removing the Barrels ,try ,shutting the gun ,pull the Right Trigger than the Left ,then remove the forend before opening the gun ,this sometimes works then open the gun and remove the Barrels but BE CAREFUL ,the Barrels should actually fall off of the gun and you don't want to drop them ! It probably just needs a good cleaning but I have owned a few that I needed to do this way to remove the barrels even once they were all cleaned and greased and oiled ! Pictures would be helpful as there is no such model to my knowledge called a " Titan " and you may not have an actual Parker Brothers shotgun there ! Best ; Russ
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Unread 07-08-2012, 11:55 AM   #5
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Or try this method. Like Kevin says, don't use anything that will mar the finish of either the barrels or the wood.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthr...ht=forend+tool

Incidentally, a 1920 Trojan did not have the slotted (screw head) hinge pin.

What is the serial number of your "Titan"?
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Unread 07-08-2012, 12:43 PM   #6
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Sorry guys, I meant Trojan and yes its a Parker...
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Unread 07-08-2012, 12:45 PM   #7
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You see, I knew I found the right place. It came right apart without a hitch. I was thinking I had to take the pin out, thank goodness I asked.

Now I can get all the other numbers to help identify the gun.

Thanks Again,

Glenn
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Unread 07-08-2012, 12:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Romig View Post
Or try this method. Like Kevin says, don't use anything that will mar the finish of either the barrels or the wood.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthr...ht=forend+tool

Incidentally, a 1920 Trojan did not have the slotted (screw head) hinge pin.

What is the serial number of your "Titan"?
Its 190009
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Unread 07-08-2012, 01:25 PM   #9
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Here are my specs for anyone interested:

1920 Trojan serial 190009
30" barrel and assuming full choke on both according to original sales literature. If I'm wrong please correct me.

Barrel weight is listed as 4^2 : is this pounds and oz?

The frame size is 2 and its a 12 gauge

Is there anything else I should know about the gun and I'm assuming that as far as cleaning I don't need to unscrew anything, just wipe down the obvious spots and keep moving?

Thanks,

Glenn
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Unread 07-08-2012, 09:14 PM   #10
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Unfortunately 190009 is not in the Serialization Book so we can only presume it is as it was manufactured. 30" barrels were one of the standard barrel lengths for the 12 ga. Trojan (30", 28", and 26" being the standards) but 12 ga. Trojans were made in every barrel length from 23" to 36" but only 14 that we know of were made with other than the three standard barrel lengths.

Please post more pictures for us.
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