black powder shotshell reloading

[Mike of the Mountain]

Good to hear you're tooling up for BP, Jim! I would try to avoid using plastic hulls and wads as the BP will burn very hot and the plastic will really gunk up your bores more so than just the BP residue. BTW, ROLL TIDE!!!

[Hammer Fan]

+1 on how much fun you are going to have. You'll get a lot of pleasure shooting the exact components your gun was designed for.

[jim garrett]

Paul, we do sometimes in reloading seem to "major in minors" and I am going to try both paper and brass, but the real test will be the patterning board. I also need to check poi as the Parker stock has a lot of drop and I need to adjust for that. Thanks for the email. Jim Garrett

[William Davis]

Good exchange of ideas, I picked up a few new tricks.

Couple of points my side

Plastic of any kind does not mix well with Black Powder, However if I did not have paper hulls would use Plastic, and toss them after one loading. Plastic wad of any kind is going to cause trouble.

My 1876 Lifter was probably chambered for Brass shells. However Paper works fine. Brass is good but volume I load, 150+ at a time, enough for a full round of clays, cost is an issue. And you have to clean the brass hulls after firing, paper I toss. One of my Schuetzen Rifles in 32/40 I run on RMC turned brass cases and they work very well. Been using the same 20 cases since 1996. Reload them at the range while shooting. Brass is not a bad way to go. Whatever you use make sure the wads fit the case.

I am probably over cleaning = wiping while shooting. However long time with Muzzle Loaders, Schuetzen Rifles and Black Powder Cartridge Rifles clean bores are a critical issue, and topic hotly debated among competitors. Methods, lubes, powder brands etc. Thing about black powder is sometimes it will fowl other times shoot long strings without wiping. It's very dependent on the Ambient conditions. Hot dry day they need to be wiped, damp cool, less so. Shoot a few rounds it's not obvious, long strings best be prepared to wipe the bores. You could pattern, clean bore, then again after 40 - 50 rounds and probably prove something one way or the other, however I go with my rifle methods even if they may not be needed with the shot shell. Considering case separation with old paper cases you need to have a rod handy anyhow.

William

[jim garrett]

Mike, thanks for the Roll Tide. There seems to be fairly large number of Alabama fans in Pa as there are Penn State fans in Alabama. It all goes back to the WELL deserved mutual respect that Coach Bryant and Coach Paterno had for each other. Now on to lesser important things such as bp shooting and loading. The Heritage event at the Southern this year was the first time I have ever shot black powder and I thought they had thrown a parade for me after the first shot. I haven't seen that much confetti falling since the Macy's parade last Thanksgiving. I had to buy the shells at Deep River and I don't even know the brand but they must have used toilet paper for filler wads. I have been fully warned away from plastic wads , but I may use a teflon sleeve and check the barrels for residue from the sleeve. My barrels aren't that perfect on the inside (sorta like a Cambodian minefield) so it has been recommended that the teflon sleeve might alleviate the issues there. I am supposed to get my ffg tomorrow so I will load up and give reports to anyone interested. Jim Garrett

[William Davis]

Jim

My Lifters barrels are pretty rough inside too, however the wipe routine and a soap and water clean up with a good brushing is all it needs. I don't know that Teflon is bad with BP but don't know it's ok either.

Way I brush my rough barrels is wrap of 0000 Steel Wool around a bronze brush. Have a rod that's fitted for a power screwdriver. Rotate under power for a few seconds, cleans up nice.

William

[jim garrett]

William, another way to clean bores is to use a Chambermate brush made by Kleen Bore and I also put it on a cleaning rod powdered by a chordless drill with shooter choice on it and make a few passes down the barrels. I use a newer brush for the chambers and forcing cones and an older, more worn, brush for the barrels. After the scrub I then cut a blue shop paper towel in 4ths and wrap a 4th around a Tornado brush for a few passes. I shoot quite a bit of sporting clays and this is the cleaning process for my Perazzis. With the bore sizes of the 1880 Parkers you can probably use a new chamber brush with no problem. By the way, I don't use the drill with the paper towel, as it is just a straight push thru. In addition to the hot soapy water cleaning I will probably use a black powder solvent and Butches has always been good for centerfires. Jim

[Paul Harm]

Jim, you'll just have to learn to shoot " head up, " not out and down like modern shooters do. Keep your weight the same on both feet, not more on the front, and you'll naturally shoot a gun with more drop. Good luck - Paul

[jim garrett]

Paul, I have always shot heads up and I am always looking for pictures of me shooting to make sure that I am shooting that way. My sporting clays gun doesn't have much drop so I am fight down the barrel without lowering my head.I do not however like the new trend in sporting clays guns to have a high rib. The only time i will get down tight on a gun is when I am shooting my Model 32 trap gun (Remington that is). Jim

[jim garrett]

Mike, I noticed in the AHFCA newsletter that you might have a few "Foxes in the henhouse". When I first got into S x S guns I started with Foxes. At one time I had 7 or 8 pin models...don't ask me why, except that I liked them. I know this is the Parker site, but we need to have some organized Fox shooting activity at the Southern. Jim