Rebounding locks ??

[Tom]

Hi
I have been reading about parker actions and they mentioned but did not elaborate on rebounding locks. They say this holds the hammer back after it has fired, in order to keep it out of the indentation of the primer. This is a cool idea.That naturally brings up all sorts of questions in my head.

Is this rebounding lock only on hammer guns or hammer less or both ?

Here's why I ask, I have just set my barrels back .004 to tighten up the face. I am very pleased with the results, so far I have shot six rounds of skeet with it and am always checking the gun out to make sure it looks ok. Upon examination the right hammer indents the primer pretty deep, quite a bit more than the left. My friend suggested file down the right pin a little before it pokes a hole in a primer. Needless to say I'm a little hesitant to just go filing away.
If I put a feeler gauge on the breach face both pins protrude the exact same amount after pulling the triggers of course.

So now I'm thinking are they being held back by a rebounding catch and when fired they actually stick out further before being held back ?

Setting the barrels back shouldn't effect the depth of the hammer mark if they are set back to where they left the factory. The more I think this over the more questions I have.
Can anyone shed some light on this ??
Thank you for any info, Tom

[OH Osthaus]

a rebounding lock keeps the hammer from resting on the striker/firing pin, a non rebounding needs to be put on half cock.

putting a barrel on face should not have any affect there.

are the firing pin protruding the breech face when at rest?

did you check the springs around the firing pins- they should hold them back a little, if they are not there I guess the firing pin could go forward by that little bit of room the springs would have filled.

or - is there wear to the the rim area - head space allowing the right round to recoil against the firing pin

just guessing with out the gun in hand

[Kensal Rise]

Tom:
Rebounding locks are a good thing. They keep the hammer from resting on the firing pin after ignition. Which, in turn, allows the firing pint spring to withdraw the firing pin tip from the primer indent. If your pins are retracting, there is no problem there.

However... if you right pin is impacting harder than the left with the same brand of primers/ammunition, the issue may be the retracting spring. It may be old/weak/compressed. Check this before doing any work on the pin. If the springs seem OK, then consider the need to file the pin tip. If it is not piercing the primer, don't. If it is, take off only a few thousandths of metal, round the tip, polish, and try shooting.

Actually, from the nature of your post, it may be best to have a dedicated double gunsmith analyze the problem. The fix will not be costly.

[Tom]

Thanks for the replys
The pins do protrude through the breach face when at rest, the exact same amount left and right.
I will check the right barrel for loose head space, I'm thinking that may be a long shot I should have noticed if it was that loose.
I will check the fireing pin springs next, to be quite honest I never knew it had some in there. I have not taken it that far apart yet.
I'm guessing the fireing pin goes out pretty far hits the primer then the hammer is held in check and a light spring retracts the pin a few thousandths.
Is this how the system works ?
If the pin is punching that primer in pretty far not fracturing it but pretty close I'm thinking it should be addressed if nothing else just to make the gun work as perfect as I can get it.
Thank you for any advice, Tom

This is a DH hammer less model, don't know if they are all the same .

[OH Osthaus]

The pins do protrude through the breach face when at rest, the exact same amount left and right.

I will check the fireing pin springs next, to be quite honest I never knew it had some in there. I have not taken it that far apart yet.

I'm guessing the fireing pin goes out pretty far hits the primer then the hammer is held in check and a light spring retracts the pin a few thousandths.
Is this how the system works ?

Yes, I do not believe the firing pins would protrude if the springs were in place and in good shape. Unless the firing pin has broken - I had one the still fired broken, it was the tip not retracting that gave me the clue something was wrong.

This is a DH hammer less model, don't know if they are all the same .

and yes - all grades function alike

[B. Dudley]

The first couple thousand hammer guns had non-rebounding hammers. They would have hammers which had a "half cock" safe position that the hammers had to be pulled back to before the gun could be opened with fired shells in it, or before loading the gun with new shells.
Hammer guns with rebounding locks do not have a locked "safe" position that you can pull back to. Instead, the hammers pop back to the "safe" position automatically and you must pull up on the trigger to be able to push the hammer forward.

The same goes for the hammerless guns too. The very first ones had non-rebounding hammers. Then they rebounded and did until the end of Parker production. The hammers in hammerless guns ease up just a hair after firing. That way they do not stick in primers.

Sounds to me like your issue is a non issue. Unless you are having misfires, or pins sticking in primers. There is no trouble. The fact that your one pin is hitting harder than the other may just be wear to the pin. If it is not sticking or puncturing the primer, you are ok.

[Tom]

Non issue sounds good to me. Not trying to make a problem just trying to make sure its right. I will keep an eye on it.
Thanks very much for all the replys, Tom

[Autumn Daze]

Tom, There are no springs on the hammer of a hammerless gun to help them retract. That feature is built into the lock mechanism.

[Tom]

Wow thats a key piece of information, I would have thought the springs were missing if I got into it. I have a VH action that I took the barrels off i'm thinking maybe i'll tear it completely down and learn what I can about how these things work.

Thanks, Tom

[Richard Flanders]

Before you tear into it make sure you read the directions that I think Brian has put on our forum here somewhere. There are several ways to screw a Parker up when taking it apart and especially when putting it together if you haven't read up on it a bit. It definitely isn't a case of just taking out screws and pins and having it fall onto the table in pieces.