1st Phase of GH Restoration

[Derek Iske]

So I went in for another pass on the barrels and it paid off. The pitting is significantly reduced and I thought it was ready for finishing until I noticed this plastic piece, really don't know what it was, but it was imbedded in my breech and a pick easily removed it. Now remains a large pit which is impossible to file out. Was thinking of sending the barrels our to get micro welded, I came across a welder on these forums. $50 plus shipping, quick and cheap to fill in the void. Or should I just leave it as is?

[Dean Romig]

That pit or hole is a non-issue. Just ignore it.






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[Dean Romig]

Xxx






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[wayne goerres]

Save your fifty dollars. You could do more harm than good messing around in the chamber areas. That pit wont hurt a thing.

[Eric Estes]

Very interesting points you make Will. I am no metallurgist, but as you suggest isn't all that is required a consistent and uniform layer of rust, not too little and not too much? What one uses to get there is more of a production efficiency issue than a quality issue? I don't know myself. I would be interested to hear some other experienced opinions.

[Bruce Day]

I am aware that both Brad and Dale Edmonds have redone many Damascus barrels that were first attempted by others.

One set I saw was never going to turn out well because acid etching had created such a difference between the steel and iron elements. A substantial amount of material needed to be removed.

Good luck.

[J. A. EARLY]

Originally Posted by Bruce Day

I am aware that both Brad and Dale Edmonds have redone many Damascus barrels that were first attempted by others.

One set I saw was never going to turn out well because acid etching had created such a difference between the steel and iron elements. A substantial amount of material needed to be removed.

Good luck.

I tried doing Damascus and gave up completely. I do use Mark Lee's Express Blue on fluid steel blued barrels and like Brian, I can do a set, once prepared, in five hours or less, one coat boiled right after another and finished in an afternoon. I am very happy with the results, but learned to boil them several times before starting the process to remove oil. It comes from nowhere and ruins a job (streaked) right as you are finished if you don't.

But I did learn a few tricks; one is that if you do see oil floating on the top of the water, one floods the tank washing the oil over the side. Pulling them out through the oil will streak/ruin your bluing job. After streaking a few sets I also learned not to start over from scratch, but just to take the oil streaks out and let them "catch up" in subsequent coats.

But I am an admitted amateur.

[wayne goerres]

Brad if you are still paying attention, Were do you get logwood. And what do you do when you have to pause during the rusting process like at night when it is time to close up and you haven't completed enough rusting processes.

[Derek Iske]

Originally Posted by wayne goerres

Brad if you are still paying attention, Were do you get logwood. And what do you do when you have to pause during the rusting process like at night when it is time to close up and you haven't completed enough rusting processes.

Wayne,

My plan is, if I have to stop before completion, stop on the wet carding of the barrels step after the chemical etching bath step. After wet carding I will move to a warm water bath of distilled water and Sodium Bicarbonate to neutralize any acids remaining, let set for an hour, rinse with hot water then force dry with a heat gun.

Then I will run wood dowels through the barrels, making sure a couple inches stick out on both sides, so I can suspend them on wood blocks on my bench and drape with a de-greased plastic bag to keep dust off.

To start back up, I may or may not wipe down with acetone.

If you are interested I have put together a procedure on how to do the barrels specifically with Pilkingtons. I can send it to by email.

Derek

[B. Dudley]

Wayne,
Logwood extract can be purchased from several sources. Even ebay. It is sold primarily for dying metal traps black. Can be purchased in 1 lb. packages. And it isnt that expensive when purchased that way. It is much more expensive when purchased from a textile outlet.