Solder pot for making shot?? HELP

[Keith Parrish]

Have recieved FREE a solder pot which I would like to use to make buckshot/slugs/anything shootable. The problem is that after 3 hours the solder doesn't melt should I dig out the solder which is in the pot and start anew, it is possible that someone put in lead free solder which may need a higher temp to melt? Should I dig into the guts and look for the heating element and try to replace it? If that's the case where might I find one to replace the bad one with? It has a nice sized crucible which holds 2 pounds. The pot itself is not 4 years old as my company bought it in 2007. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance...

[Richard Flanders]

Two pounds isn't much. What brand is this thing? I'd be tearing it apart to see if it has something wrong with it. You have any kind of a thermometer to see what temp it's getting up to? It needs to get to at least 750deg F to be useful, and higher hopefully.

[Keith Parrish]

PLATO SP-101 is the mfg and model.

Posted from work and at the nice place I am employed, the Monkey's had the switch turned so that you could not see the temp HI or LOW. I got the baby home and with a lil adjustment after I removed the plate that covers the bottom to open the guts and a minute with the switch out to figure which way makes contact on the HI side. I through her back together and in less than 20 minutes baboom!! we got nice flowing HOT melted Lead.

Now off to get pointers and tips for what tools I might need. Also If anyone has pointers on how to keep my pot serviced. yes 2 lbs isn't much but If i can get 25 rounds from a full pot then I am happy with a box of shells to go ruin some crows and yotes day. I'm not looking at running a production line just some nice rounds to go and give a try. What is that site "trackthewolf" ?? something to that effect?

[Jeff Mayhew]

Originally Posted by Keith Parrish

What is that site "trackthewolf" ?? something to that effect?

Yup. www.trackofthewolf.com. They cater more to the muzzleloading crowd, but they do have shotgun-gauge "pumpkin ball" molds that are reasonably priced. I just received one of their 10 gauge (0.760" diam) ball molds; will post results after trying it out over the weekend.

For more conventional molds I recommend Midway. Get some spray-on mold release and some lead flux (basically, wax and some additives), and an ingot mold (you can substitute a steel muffin pan if you're careful). You'll also need a steel spoon or similar implement to skim off the dross (junk on top of the melt, particularly after fluxing). And a sturdy ladle for pouring the lead into the mold.

You can buy a top-melter with 10 times the capacity of your 2 lb unit for $52 plus shipping from Midway. If you're going to use wheel weights or other scavenged lead, a top-melter (rather than a bottom pour unit) is the way to go; the crud will clog the spot on a unit that dispenses from below.

You will want to be able to control the temperature of your lead. A thermometer is nice, but if you know what to look for you can turn the knob up or down until you get the right results. And always get that mold hot!

[ch]

You now that lead fumes arnt something you want to breath.
Jeff have you shot a pumpkinball? sounds interesting.
Can I shoot a pumpkin ball through a full choke 10 twist NH safely?

[charlie cleveland]

calvin to have really good luck with the round ball measure the muzzle end andorder the mould about 4 thousands smaller than the muzzle end.. you boys will like messin around with the old parkers and them round ball and buckshot loads....makes them parkers into big game guns at close range..hope all yall try this.... charlie

[charlie cleveland]

forgot to add that all the buck shot and pumpkin balls ive shot have been through twist steel damascus steel and stub twist barrels the loads from 1 1/4 ounseto 1 1/2 ounce in the short ten the old 8 bore shoots a 2 ounce punpkin ball and the buckshot loads are 2 1/2 ounce.. charlie

[Jeff Mayhew]

Charlie’s the man on shooting pumpkin balls; I’m just trying to catch up and shoot my first one. After I cast a few with the new mold, I'm going to measure the diameter from a bunch of different angles, because the balls definitely aren't perfectly round. From what I can gather from the source website, Charlie's mold was made on a lathe with a ball fixture, so it's probably a lot more precise than the ones from the supplier mentioned earlier (TOTW). I'll use the sawed-off coach gun and first roll the balls down the barrel to make sure they pass through without issues. Chokes matter: when they were first offered, barrels with chokes were often marked "NOT FOR BALL”; something to take seriously.

It is my understanding that the pressure of a given load is influenced by the composition of the projectile as well as its weight. In other words, it has been said that a given weight of very large buckshot creates more pressure than the equivalent weight in smaller shot, all else being equal. Perhaps the experts on the forum can confirm or dispel this notion. If true, this is something to consider if your barrel wall thickness or condition is marginal, and when deciding on a powder charge. Guns ordered explicitly for shooting pumpkin balls would most likely have been configured with larger frames and heavier barrels, more like a musket.

Lead fumes are not a big deal in a ventilated area unless you get the lead too hot (approaching or exceeding 1000F). You shouldn't need to go above 750F or so; another reason to use a thermometer. Perhaps more important is washing your hands frequently while handling lead (avoid eating while casting), and of course safety glasses/goggles. Don't cast barefoot or with open-toed footware... I speak from experience!

Be safe and have fun!

[Richard Flanders]

Jeff gives sound advice here Keith. Glad he mentions the fumes and hand washing issues. I'd add to make sure to not use any scrap lead that has not been thoroughly dried out and be cautious of using scrap wheel weights as some contain minute amounts of mercury which will vaporize out of the melt at a much lower temp than lead lead. Good ventilation or working outside is must. Get on the "cast boolits" forum for lots of good advice. There are some serious and experienced casters on there who cover any issue that may arise.

I used to have a Navy Arms cyl-bored muzzle loading S/S 12ga that I shot .678" round balls through by using a Remington 12ga plastic shot cup. The balls are for my .69cal Springfield musket. The shot cups had a rib on the inside that protruded into the shot portion so I had to slice that out. I shortened the shot portion of the cup to be long enough to cover the ball. That size of ball would drop into and slide down the lightly bore-buttered barrel in that cup with the perfect "snugness". A Win AA shot cup wouldn't have the ribs and would take the ball perfectly. The 475 grain RB's would put one hell of a hole in anything you put them through. I found junk cars to be an ideal test medium; impressive.

[Keith Parrish]

yes at work we keep a vacum next to the pots for safe ventilation and have fans installed on each desk to keep from breathin in the lead and burnt flux. I plan to work the magic outside in the sun. After all that I am hearing bout them wheel weights I may just stick with ignots and something that I am sure about. I am looking into a ladel from rotometals but need one smaller than 2 1/2" diameter. Also I am looking into a sharpshooter mold I like the fact that the sharpshooter molds range from 0000 to size 2 and F buckshot.