Removing blueing question

[Tom]

Hi
I am preparing to rust blue a set of barrels and there are areas that I really can't get with the sand paper. I an effort to strip them clean I have read to use vinegar or navel jelly to get out the blueing I can't reach.

My question is if I use navel jelly can it attack the solder under the rib ?

That crevice is where most of the blue is that I can't get out, and I am paranoid of ruining the solder joint and by extension the barrels.
Just looking for some reassurance before I go ahead and pour it on.

Thank you, Tom

[B. Dudley]

Even if you use a chemical to strip the bluing, you will still have to polish that surface before you can re blue it. Yes, polishing off good bluing can seem like slow go, but it is the best way I go sometimes.
That evapo-rust that harbor freight sells is good. Or get that birch wood Casey bluing and that remover.
In order to polish down in the rib joint, take an old wide file. Cut it to a good length. Maybe 3" long and then grind a bevel on one side and use that to wrap your paper on in order to get into the crack.

[Tom]

Brian thanks for the reply

The barrels are polished, I removed 99.9 percent of the blue with sand paper. They are ready to go, but there are a few spots that I just can't get to. For example along the rib, most of the rib is spotless but it is not perfect. I was just wondering if the navel jelly would damage the solder joint.

Thanks, Tom

[B. Dudley]

I cannot answer that question definitely. I would not think it to. But, do some looking on-line as to if navel jelly had any effects on lead or tin. That should tell you.

But... Like I said, these areas should not be just stripped and then blued. They need to be polished still. The looks of bluing is dependent mostly on the polishing and prep. If chemically stripped areas are not then polished out, the bluing will look different in those spots.

Another thing to note is that if they are very minor spots in the deepest cracks, you may be able to leave them be. Since it is already rust blued, they will likely blend in with the new rust blue when all is said and done.
A good example is the matting lines and lettering on the ribs. When polishing the high spots on the ribs, and then blending with a stainless wire wheel, there is no way to get the matting lines and lettering stripped. But when they are reblued, everything blends together fine.

[Tom]

I'm starting to think leave it alone might be best, these are small spots. I may be over thinking this, they will probably blend in.
Tom