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Unread 05-03-2014, 01:07 PM   #21
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Dean Freeman
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More pics of the repair. Here are some photos of the hammer screws and the hammer repair

Incorrect replacement screw on left hammer


Correct screw on right hammer


Hammer repair, after a light punch and a bit of work on fit, the hammer is no longer loose and operates perfectly





A look at the sidelock engraving
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Unread 05-04-2014, 09:54 AM   #22
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This is what happens when you get into a big hurry and aren't taking care to remove parts properly...



I broke the sear spring on the right lock (which WAS in perfect condition). An expensive lesson to learn; take your time!
The cleaning and repair of the locks WAS complete. Now I have to find parts to fix this stupid mistake.


Waiting for a less incompetent restorer...

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Unread 05-04-2014, 11:09 AM   #23
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bet brian has got one of them springs..he s come through for me a few times..charlie
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Unread 11-04-2014, 10:36 AM   #24
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So after this last post I was gifted a few parts from a very generous member of the forum. I can't thank him enough for the help. I have rebuilt the locks and everything is in perfect working order. Now for the stock work...

I have one question that all may have an opinion though. The parts I was gifted were from a slightly older gun with rebounding locks. I have the parts to change my locks to the rebounding type. I'm wondering if I should do so? I would keep the old "tumblers" (not sure if that is the correct name for the part I'm thinking of changing) so as not to part the originals from the gun in case a future owner wanted to return the gun to its original condition. The main reason I'm thinking of doing it is the safety factor. Do you guys have any thoughts or opinions regarding this potential move?
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Unread 11-04-2014, 11:54 AM   #25
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Rebounding locks require a completely different lock plate. Or alterning your current lock plate. I am not sure which other parts you are speaking of. As far as I know, the only difference in the other parts is the tumbler since non rebounding locks have a sifferent type of slot cut in them for a half cock safety.
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Unread 11-04-2014, 04:34 PM   #26
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I was thinking of replacing the tumbler on my lock with the tumbler from a 2xxx series lock. It looked like it would change out, but I didn't look very close. I wanted to pose the question here before I even tried. If the tumblers won't exchange, then I suppose it's a moot point. But since we are on the subject. If you could exchange the tumblers, would this be a good idea or not?

Thanks Brian, you're always a great source of information. It looked as though the locks are identical except for a round bottom on the tumbler which is in turn forced back when the sear comes in contact with it. I'll post some pics later.

On another note, the locks from the 2xxx series gun were embellished at bit more than mine. Interesting and beautiful swirls (I'll try to post pics later). The action seems to be from the same $grade as my gun though. I would have simply traded lock for lock since the others were prettier than mine anyway with more color remaining. Alas, they needed some work to fit properly and wouldn't you know it, I don't have an annealing oven.
Regardless, 1351 is beautiful in my eyes and will hopefully be a looker once again some day.
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Unread 11-04-2014, 05:14 PM   #27
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Changing just the tumblers will do nothing for you. You need to change the whole lock plate out in order to convert to rebounding hammers.

Rebounding hammer lock plates have a step in the bottom of the plate that sticks out and stops the mainspring from traveling down past the bottom of the plate. You will notice that your plate does not have this since your spring hangs off the bottom of the plate. That little stop point is the part of the rebounding lock design that makes it all work.
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Unread 11-05-2014, 10:00 AM   #28
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I knew I should not have looked at this thread, now I want a project.

Good stuff Dean!!

Tom
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Unread 11-05-2014, 08:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dudley View Post
Changing just the tumblers will do nothing for you. You need to change the whole lock plate out in order to convert to rebounding hammers.

Rebounding hammer lock plates have a step in the bottom of the plate that sticks out and stops the mainspring from traveling down past the bottom of the plate. You will notice that your plate does not have this since your spring hangs off the bottom of the plate. That little stop point is the part of the rebounding lock design that makes it all work.
I was wondering what the purpose of that little stop was.
...So what's happening with that stop and the mainspring that makes the rebounding lock do its thing?
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Unread 11-05-2014, 09:30 PM   #30
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The step in the plate stops the spring from traveling beyond the bottom the the plate. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer springs forward and moves past that stop point freely due to forward momentum. The pressure from the sear spring and sear on the bottom of the tumbler is what makes the hammer return back to the rest position.
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