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08-28-2013, 09:12 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Destry made an excellent sugestion. If it leaves your stock to flat just reoil with light coats of danish oil or tung oil. I did a lifter 10ga this way and the but stock matched the fore arm perfectly.
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The Following User Says Thank You to wayne goerres For Your Post: |
08-28-2013, 09:36 PM | #4 | ||||||
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That will turn out to be a beautiful gun. I would highly recommend RST loads for it. I use them in my 10 bores and they work great.
Dennis |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dennis V. Nix For Your Post: |
08-29-2013, 09:01 AM | #5 | ||||||
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That is one nice Grade 2. I would mail it up to Keith Kearcher in Oregon for a going over and to take care of the barrel problem, fix the screws, and to clean out the bores. You will be money ahead shipping it to him. He knows how to do everything you need to have done and he will charge a very fair price.
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Bill Murphy For Your Post: |
08-29-2013, 10:59 PM | #6 | ||||||
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Mighta been my father that coated it with linseed oil. When he's around, nothing that is made out of wood is safe from the linseed oil. I have shovels and hammers that I will never touch again thanks to the linseed oil. You won't any linseed oil at my house.
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The Following User Says Thank You to greg conomos For Your Post: |
08-30-2013, 02:15 PM | #7 | ||||||
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Straight linseed oil, without The addition of Japan Dryer will not dry well for sure. You can knock down the finish that is on it with 0000 steel wool and you can even be less abrasive by lubricating with linseed or mineral oil while working it. This will work well in dulling down some, and knocking down the finish. Just wipe off the excess when done.
I find that linseed oil (or the linspeed product) works well for a flat/satin "at the wood" finish. This is where the finish is built up and then knocked back down to wood until the pores are filled. In the end, there is no finish on the surface, but instead filled into the wood.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
09-07-2013, 10:51 PM | #8 | ||||||
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I know most folks hate it but I think a linseed finish is the best for gunstocks. it does take sometime to dry but worth the wait
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ray Masciarella For Your Post: |
09-08-2013, 01:05 AM | #9 | ||||||
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Ray:
You may very well be right, as I know little of the many stock finishes. I do remember that the when linseed oil is used, it is of a higher quality than your hardware deck finish and it is, as i remember, often cut with a solvent. This looks like a very unprofessional job as there are a few particles (sawdust?) visible under the finish. Thank you for taking the time to respond, Patrick |
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11-21-2013, 05:10 PM | #10 | ||||||
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Patrick,
Congrats on the nice 10 gauge. Like Brian said. 0000 steel wool can actually polish that old finish off. RST brand shells are a good option to get things started. Best regards, Jeff
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"There's no substitute for experience." |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff Bonadurer For Your Post: |
Tags |
10 gauge, linseed oil |
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