red dot 10 ga loads

[J.B. Books]

Originally Posted by Carl G. Bachhuber

Of late I have been using Schoeller PT1044 wad plus 3 16ga. .125 card wads with my 1-1/8 oz loads in Remington SP10 cases cut to 2-7/8. These cases do seem prone to buckling if not supported during crimping. Once they buckle they will continue to do so.
C.G.B.

If you are using a MEC reloader and your hulls are buckling you need to make an adjustment to the cam. I was loading Federal hulls for a long time without issue and when I got some Remington hulls they buckled upon applying the final crimp. Once I adjusted the cam the Remington hulls loaded perfectly.

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/bp...ust/mecadj.htm

[Carl G. Bachhuber]

Interesting about the cam, I will have to play with it. Way back I used to load a lot of 3.5" cases, Federal and Remington, and had the press dialed in. When I started playing with the shorter cases I did not readjust it. I did find that adding a support collar around the head while crimping did alleviate the problem.
C.G.B.

[Eric Johanen]

This morning I am loading some Remington Hulls cut to 2 7/8 inches with a Winchester 209 primer, 34.3-5 grains of SR 4756, Remington SP10 wads using 1 Balistic Products .070 16 ga. card and 1 Circle Fly 1/8" 16 ga. card in the bottom of the cup. 1 1/4 oz. 7.5 shot for those longer shots on the clays course. The card stack height is just perfect for factory like crimps on my MEC Size Master press. Load # 8 Sherman Bell load using just the .070 card gave a dished crimp so I added the 1/8 card and am pleased with the results of the finished shell. This load works really well in my W.W. Greener and George T. Abbey Hammer guns. With 6's and 5's a very good field load. I'm going to see how this load works with the Federal Hull. Cheddite and Federal Hulls and 19.0 grains of Red Dot has become my go to clays load but it is nice to have a bit heavier payload for some applications. Can't tell you just how much fun these guns are with loads in the proper pressure range.

[Eric Johanen]

Yesterday I finished loading a small batch of Federal hulls. Using the same wad and filler combination as above eliminates occasionally hull buckling at the crimp. Firm support of the stack gives factory like crimps with Federal hulls as well.

[Paul Harm]

I thought I had posted this before but couldn't find it so here goes
When adjusting the crimp station, the CAM is the LAST thing you adjust. Adjust the crimp starter first, then adjust the seating stem to get the proper depth. When you are getting a correct fold of the crimp petals, and the correct depth set, THEN adjust the cam to eliminate the flare. NOTE The cam adjustment should be set at least 2/3 of the way up, while the other adjustments are being made. Then, and only then, lower the cam enough to eliminate the flare.



The roller will not touch the cam (or at least not have any force put on it by the cam) at the very bottom of the stroke. BUT, more cam means the cam will touch the roller and apply force to it longer (further down) in the stroke. The cam has a fairly sharp shoulder or lobe on it. When you start down with the press the roller rolls on the cam (because this part of the cam is circular) and the outer (plastic) part of the die is pushed down by the cam and roller. Until you get around 1/2-3/4 of the way down, everything I have said so far remains true regardless of where the cam is set. However, the cam is rotating as you come down. Eventually the cam rotates to the point when the roller goes past the shoulder on the cam. Past this point the cam is no longer circular. As you come on down the cam puts less and less pressure on the roller. But, the center punch will come on down because it is fastened solidly to the top of the press. If the roller gets past the shoulder of the cam too early in the stroke you will end up with the punch coming on down on the center of the crimp and this tending to squeeze the top of the shell outward. But the plastic part of the die is not coming on down, which means it cannot prevent the top of the shell from flaring outward. It takes a lot of fine tuning to get this just right. There is a reason why Mec adds the final taper die to the Grabber and 9000. Having a separate die that is used strictly to get some taper makes things a lot simpler.


Most people do NOT have straight in their minds what the CAM actually does. There are all kinds of convoluted beliefs as to what it actually does.

Adding more cam, (Lowering it at the adjustment slot), causes the crimp die to lower slightly at the near bottom of the stroke. The die has a taper at the top of the die, that when pushed lower, will in fact push the flare at the end of the hull inward, closing the hole in the center tighter, and usually will eliminate the flare and in fact may leave the end of the hull slightly rounded.

SO, in most cases, a properly adjusted CAM will reduce or eliminate the flare on the end of the hull, and probably leave it slightly rounded.
The above was actually two different post on another reloading web site. Hope it helps.

[RICHARD HOUSER]

Paul, great info.

thanks rch