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1928 vhe 12 ga 1 1/2 frame questions
Unread 03-26-2020, 10:44 PM   #1
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Don Strelioff
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Default 1928 vhe 12 ga 1 1/2 frame questions

Markings . On the bbl flats it says over proofed Parker bros . What exactly does that mean .
Questions 2 on the forend metal that sets up against the action there are 2 screws one on each side I presume this is for some type of adjustment. They are not bottomed they rotate easily.
Question 3 should I store my guns fired on snap caps or leave them cocked . Leaning towards fired on caps buts interested in other fellows thought . Thanks

Last edited by Don Strelioff; 03-26-2020 at 11:01 PM..
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Unread 03-27-2020, 04:53 AM   #2
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#1 it means it was factory tested with shells of approximately twice the pressure of shells it was designed to shoot. But in no way should you ever shoot anything heavier than the gun was designed to shoot.

#2 Those 2 screws hold the forend iron to the wood. If they spin freely the wood has been stripped by overtightening the screws.

#3 A lot of people like to drop the “hammers” on snap caps but that is entirely unnecessary. You can drop the hammers if you want to but you don’t need to use snap caps. Parker even stated on hang tags and sales brochures that it will do no harm to dry fire the gun.





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Unread 03-27-2020, 05:39 AM   #3
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I have a couple of ejector guns with the same screws turning freely (stripped). I've been told not to worry about it.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 06:41 AM   #4
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The wood is stripped out on those screws. It is not hard to have happen after such a long time with softened wood. Combined with people working on the guns that don't know what they are doing.

They do serve a purpose. But it would be ok to leave them as is.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 06:57 AM   #5
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I didn't think it was good to let the ejectors fly without some weight behind them.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 07:16 AM   #6
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I agree Rick.





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Unread 03-27-2020, 07:30 AM   #7
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If the two wood screws are so loose that they turn freely, without ever tightening up, take them out and insert a flat toothpick into the hole. Break them off so that they are below the surface by and eighth or so, then re-insert the screws. Don't use more toothpick than necessary, as you could crack the wood.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 09:33 AM   #8
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Ok thanks guys I was unsure I thought maybe they had something to do with a adjustment I will turn them in and see if they bottom out and tighten up .

Last edited by Don Strelioff; 03-27-2020 at 11:49 AM..
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Unread 03-27-2020, 10:45 AM   #9
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You can also fix stripped screwholes like that by half filling the hole with fine walnut sawdust, the finest you can make, say with a flat file or a miter saw and packed in somehow, then drip nice fresh super glue or Mini-Wax wood hardener in until the sawdust is soaked, then fill the hole to the top with sawdust and repeat. Let it dry then carefully redrill the hole. You won't even be able to tell you have done a repair when you're done and it will be as strong as new. I've used this method while repairing guitars and banjos and such.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 10:47 AM   #10
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Take Edgar's advice seriously about too much toothpick. Try not to fill the hole only enough to get a bite for the screw threads. Do not ask me how I know.

Last edited by Daniel Carter; 03-27-2020 at 12:23 PM.. Reason: mistake
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