A family Parker - Page 5

wayne goerres · 06-16-2013, 07:34 PM

Looks to me like your doing a pretty nice job. Going to make a nice wall hanger.

Patrick Hanna · 06-18-2013, 05:30 PM

Thanks, Wayne. Also, thanks for your lead to Brian Dudley. I've been in touch with him and he has seen photos, etc. He is able to supply the missing screws and is willing to help with internal cleaning of the action parts. After seeing the left barrel photo he agrees this is not a shooter--at least not with these barrels. I wish we had found better barrels, but there you have it.

Thank you for the help, Brian!

In other news, the extractor finally came free yesterday evening. No damage. Just temporarily seized by some bright rust, so that's excellent news. Once free, the rust easily came off the extractor shaft and the bore that it slides in. The barrels and receiver then locked up real nicely.

wayne goerres · 06-18-2013, 08:43 PM

Patrick if you join the PGA you will have axcess to the for sale section, It is possible to find a set of barrels for your gun. Their is usually lots of prodject guns for sale. Sounds like you enjoy these projects. Just be carfull you will get hooked.

wayne goerres · 06-19-2013, 08:05 AM

Patric it aLL breaks down to its your family gun. Any of these parkers can be bought back to shooting condition if you want. Its simpley a matter of economics vs what you want and can afford. It will always be your family gun. that makes it worth a lot to your family.

Patrick Hanna · 06-20-2013, 03:42 PM

I need some more advice. The trigger guard strap is frozen in place--presumably by rust.
Obviously, I will need to free it so I can pivot it out of the way when remounting this assembly on the stock. I've cleaned the painted finish off the base of the strap since this photo was made, and I have had Kroil soaking around the base of the strap screw for a day or so. Now, for a display of my ignorance: There is another threaded hole in precise alignment with the strap pivot hole. It's on top of the trigger block in this view. It appears only to go through to the trigger plate, but it's very difficult to tell for sure. If this were a single threaded hole, running all the way through the trigger plate, I could use the Kroil in the shaft, and get more direct flow to the threads below. Could I get that lucky? I doubt it, but I'm sure some of you have dealt with this ahead of me. Thanks for any advice you can give.

Dennis · 06-20-2013, 04:27 PM

Patrick,
I can tell you that when I received one of my Parkers I turned the trigger guard so I could check the serial number underneath the trigger guard tang. Mine turned easily but there was only one hole. If I can say this properly, the trigger guard is the screw head and you simply need to turn the trigger guard. Obviously easier said than done if yours is rusted tight. I would put some more oil in there and let it set for another day or so. Then if it doesn't unscrew by finger pressure I would gently and I really mean GENTLY use something non marring such as a screw driver handle and put a SMALL amount of pressure on the screw by putting it through the trigger guard. You don't want to bend the guard but sometimes a bit of leverage is just enough to free the rust hold and then will let it unscrew. Good luck with it. Probably others will have better ideas but that is mine.

Dennis

wayne goerres · 06-20-2013, 05:11 PM

I have had many shotguns apart and have never had one frozen. The hole on top of the trigger guard that your refuring to is a through hole. fill it with penatrating oil and let it soak. Instead of useing kroll oil use some Break Free. One of the best penatrating oils I have ever used. Be carfull I have seen lots of broken trigger guards. The trigger guard is right hand thread so turn it counter clock wise. You probable already know that.

Patrick Hanna · 06-20-2013, 05:58 PM

Thanks, Dennis and Wayne. Yes, I knew from experience with my modern double gun that the trigger guard should turn out counter-clockwise. And I can see from the parts illustration in the tech section that the screw in that sample threads all the way through the trigger plate. But this old hammer gun has that big block up inside the stock to receive the tang screw from above. When I look into the hole from that side and measure its depth, it appears to go all the way through the block. I just couldn't tell if I was seeing the trigger plate at the bottom, or if I was seeing the end of the trigger guard screw. I was hoping it was the latter. Thanks again, guys. I appreciate the help. Wayne, if Kroil doesn't penetrate it tonight, I'll go look for some Break Free tomorrow. Don't worry, fellas, I'll be gentle with it. Will report back.

Double Lab · 06-20-2013, 07:39 PM

Patrick,
Mix up some acetone/automatic transmission fluid in a 50/50 ratio. This has worked for me on some very stubborn screws. Tap on the part of the trigger guard that is threaded with a plastic or leather mallet. Re-apply. Tap again. Repeat until she breaks loose. Good luck.

Patrick Hanna · 06-20-2013, 08:22 PM

Daryl, now that's an interesting suggestion. I'm not debunking it, either. But I'm curious: How do you keep the acetone from striking off in your mixture? In my experience, acetone strikes off about as fast as denatured alcohol. Let me know, because if the Kroil doesn't work tonight and the Break Free doesn't work a few days later, I might need to try it.