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Unread 07-20-2014, 05:52 PM   #11
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B. Dudley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForrestArmstrong View Post
Not all perfectly parallel with the borders either but that is impossible to accomplish with borders that bend down.
Not all that impossible. Just takes proper layout of a pattern and knowing when not to close a pattern in.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 10:32 AM   #12
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I believe you, you are a better checkerer than me, but I still can't see how one maintains lines parallel with curved borders that taper to a point, like at the bottom of an English grip. Have any pictures?
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Unread 07-30-2014, 12:13 PM   #13
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I went back and looked at my remaining DHE. The checkering is quite good. Yes, it's bordered and then filled in, but aside from the process, the workmanship is excellent. The wide, unmullered border is perhaps a little off-putting. The whole of it is certainly superior to that on my ratty-ass Perazzi.
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Unread 07-31-2014, 09:37 AM   #14
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The key to any checkering pattern is knowing the type of pattern you are laying down and anticipating possible pitfalls. Sometimes it is knowing where you need to go and not where the tool may want to take you.
This is especially important when working around curves and things such as forend latches.

The proper way to checker a pattern is not to scratch in the whole outline and then fill it in. You scratch in one side of the pattern, and then your master lines and you fill in to the other side. So, your opposing borders are determined by the spaced lines you are cutting in. So, if the lines end up taking a hair of a deviation, it is not known by the end.

In a straight grip pattern, layout is critical since the lines are long and need to be straight. I use the rear border as my one master line so that way it is guaranteed to be where it is suppoed to be. Then work forward, closing the pattern in at the front.

A little difficult to describe. I will start a thread in the restoration section that will better illustrate what I am trying to say.
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