Restoring a basket case

[Dan Gerdes]

Just got a PH grade basket case. She's a 1890 twist Damascus #1 frame 12ga (SN 63355). This is going to be a father/son restoration project for my 2 sons (21 and 22 yrs old). She's got great bones for a "shooter" w/ not much boogered up in the metal area (screws, engraving, bbls, etc). We'll be doing the rust bluing, restocking, checkering, etc as a team. Great chance for them to learn.

The person before me took a wire wheel to the stock and bbls (as he said ... to clean it up). Stock is usable, but it's had a lot of wood removed from it. Butt plate and grip cap are completely ground smooth.
Big issues:
-Hinge pin has been "worked" by someone. The screw head slot is gone and both sides have been "flattened" by someone filing them (my guess by the looks). Frame is still square (checked that right off). Any ideas how to fix or pull the one side w/o a slot and not end up needing a new hinge pin (big job).
-Restocking (Brian, help?)- What grade of wood would you feel was "normal" for a PH, and will a #1 1/2, 2, etc fit the tang. I assume yes by reading here, but I'd need the cheeks pulled down to be correct dims. I have to ask because I have some killer walnut blanks, but don't want them wasted.
-Forearm, right now it's a splinter, but didn't know everyone's thoughts on putting a semi-beaver on her.
-Re-engraving - thoughts from everyone on removing the engraving and upgrading to an A1, AAH, etc before recoloring as a "gift" to the boys at the end? (yes, I mark the frames on guns like this to show they are upgraded).

Thanks much
Dan

[B. Dudley]

A gun as early as yours would not have a screw slot on the hinge pin. It is a straight 1pc. pin that is pressed in.

The barrels on your gun are Twist steel and should be blackened in Black/white finish, not rust blued all black.

Stocks for 1-1/2 and 2 frame guns are considered interchangeable from a basic dimensional standpoint.

The proper wood for a PH grade would be American Walnut with some figure, but not a lot.

Obviously the splinter forend is the correct style. Anything other than that would not be originally and then you are not really "restoring" it, but building a custom gun to work liking. I would keep the splinter FE on it.

[Dan Gerdes]

Brian:
Huge thanks... I was really worried the pin would need to be drilled to remove. I will target reshaping it to make it fully round again.

Agreed in that we'd rust brown the bbls then remove to show the pattern. I assume brown is correct for this period and not black? No problem either way. I had a running relation with Prof Gaddy before he passed and he taught me a lot on his experiments/methods with colors and rust browning. I learned a lot is an understatement. I just hope to be 1/2 the man he was some day.
She is a #1 frame (not 1 1/2 or 2). As for wood, I was thinking something about mid-grade w/ some feathering unless we decide to upgrade the engraving. I assume a #1 1/2 or 2 semi-inletted would fit the tang and trigger but be proud on the cheeks.

There really is no downside right now as I got her for well under what the parts are worth alone. The previous owner didn't think it was safe to shoot at all. I'm really just looking for some 2nd opinions, then friends to shoot her with when done. Ducks beware!

Dan

[B. Dudley]

Black and white is proper finish for a Parker. Or any other american double for that matter.

Beware of semi-inletted stocks since they may not be compatable with your frame. It is always best to duplicate from the orignal stock or one that you know is a good fit.

And yes, larger frame sizes are just wider in the cheeks.

[Dan Gerdes]

Again, huge thanks! Thanks for the advice on the stocks. I'll take the existing and start padding to the right dims. It will be the template for the duplicator.

[B. Dudley]

Who are you going to use for duplication?

[Tom]

Dan
Just a thought, before you get to deep into this check out the barrels and make sure they are good to shoot with.
Good luck on your project, they certainly are fun to work on.
Tom

[Dan Gerdes]

Brian: Option 1 is me, myself or I..... (pending time as I have a day job and it's a nightmare setup to get right) I know enough when to bow to those that do it every day (trading time for $$). I'd rather spend my spare time engraving.

Option 2 is YOU or Fred Wenig's old company. I got to know them pretty well from my days in Illinois and running over the border. The are no longer the company Fred used to run which has me concerned. Lots of the old crowd is gone. I do know several of the guys personally, but unless I have that 1:1 contact, she's coming to you.

Tom: Amen X10. I gave them a very hard run over (under the loupe and submerged looking for bubbles). Solder is solid, bbls ring true and zero pitting! Not even scratching inside the bores. I was starting to think hone job. The bore scope showed it wasn't. (win!) I don't think she was shot much given the level of very old grease inside the action, hinge pin, extractor, etc. Zero pitting on the face, firing pin tips look new (no scratching/scuffing), no wear marks inside the action from parts moving and a lot of color inside the action also. Outside was wire wheeled. (uggh) The condition of the guts is why I said "yes" to this one.

I have to say my objective isn't a HARD restoration (hanging tag level), but something the boys can enjoy when they are my age. Right now there is a small "fight" going on between them over "who gets" this one. That's part of the reason I'm looking at re-engraving into a high grade.

Dan

[B. Dudley]

I was not asking in an attempt to suggest myself for a source for duplication as i do not really duplicate for others. Only for jobs that i am actually working on.

I wanted to just wanted to make sure that you were not considering one particular outfit, and you are not, so we are good there.

Just make sure that your original stock is used as the pattern if at all possible.

[Dan Gerdes]

Brian
No worries.....
It's all good as we're restoring a great classic gun. I'm just glad it wasn't given up to some "gun buy back" program, or chopped to make a cowboy action gun.

Dan