Made the Plunge

Gary Laudermilch · 02-03-2014, 02:16 PM

I have several Parker repros that I absolutely love. Since I am not a collector but, rather, a shooter I have had little interest in an original Parker but found the discussions on this forum interesting and entertaining.

Well, today I walked into the local gun shop where a woman was trying to sell her late husbands guns. Among them was a Parker. The shop owner prefers not to deal in old sxs's as he know he could get burned. So, out of interest I took a look at the gun. What I found:

A 12g V non ejector gun - serial # 156428
30 inch barrels that appear uncut - the dead space at the muzzles is present
The screws are extremely good
Barrel blue is in the 90% range and is original (I believe)
The bores are immaculate and no sign of dents or dings
All serial numbers match
The gun locks up solid - no movement with the forend off
The frame has no pitting or rust and 50-60% of the original case colors are there, even on the sides and bottom. I also believe them to be original
The trigger guard finish is nearly worn off on the front radius.
The stock is where it gets dicey. LOP is 14 1/4 to a dogs head butt plate with peak. It has a repair to the toe on one side where it looks as though a large chip broke off at approx. the but plate screw location but only on 1 side. Someone replaced the wood with a different piece of walnut but did a very respectible job of fitting it but not matching the wood. Because of the repair I believe the butt stock to be refinished but again a very nice job.

When attempting to remove the barrels they would not come off. They open fully but will not unhook. So, I could not see the bottom of the barrel lump to determine frame size but based on the guns weight, which is rather light, I suspect it is a 1 1/2 frame. Also, the safety is almost impossible to move. It moves but only with a great deal of effort. It acts like it is gunked up.

Sooo, I don't know what made me do it but I made an offer of $1200 and left the store. When I got home they called and advised the gun was mine. I'll pick it up later this week, after which I'll post some pics so you guys can tell me I made a mistake.

Somebody with access to the serialization data tell me what it says. Why do you suspect the barrels will not unhook?

Damn, I have to quit looking at this forum!!!

OH Osthaus · 02-03-2014, 02:40 PM

unfortunately - that serial number is not in the book

for the barrels question -->

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthr...remove+barrels

Pa SxS · 02-03-2014, 02:41 PM

Gary, we have an order book entry but no stock book entry for your gun. I shows as you've described.

The problem with the barrels not coming off is a common problem, the cocking hook is not releasing. Since you said the safety is hard to move, I suspect the receiver internals are gummed up. Sometimes just dry firing the gun will release the cocking hook after many attempts. Also remove the forend and look for the cocking hook rod sticking out from the knuckle. It should be spring loaded and move in and out. If it doesn't try a little oil on it and work it back and forth. As a last resort, with the gun open sometimes the screw for the cocking hook is fully exposed and can be taken out. Much care must be done to not bugger up the screw. If all else fails, a trip to the gunsmith is needed.

I'd say for $1200 you did good.

C.O.B. · 02-03-2014, 02:55 PM

I think the issues with the gun are minor and easily remedied. IF the stock was refinished at some time that finish might have gotten to the internals and gummed them up. If the suggestion here for getting the barrels off doesn't work PAY THE SHIPPING to a qualified gunsmith some of which can be found here and have it looked at by a professional that knows these guns.

It sounds to me like you have made a great purchase for your first original Parker.

Mills · 02-03-2014, 05:05 PM

$1200 is a good deal for all involved, in my humble opinion

B. Dudley · 02-03-2014, 06:04 PM

You will try dry firing the gun first and then see if the barrels will unhook. Some guns are just like that. If not, then a good cleaning will most likely do the trick and that unhooking slide can get gummed up easily. Or the sping in the slide could be broken.
Either way, if the barrels cannot be unhooked, then minor surgery will be required to get them off. If you are not comfortable with taking a Parker apart, then send or take the gun whole to a gunsmith who is.
Safety not wanting to move is just gunk. Either in the button/slide area of in the safety jacket assembly.
Congrats on your first Meriden Gun!

Gary Laudermilch · 02-04-2014, 08:45 AM

Thanks to all for the advice and comment. Once I get it home I'll tinker a bit more to see if I can get the barrels off. Then it is off to a competent gunsmith for a good cleaning and check-up before I shoot it - and shoot it I will.

Enlighten me, if there is an order book entry but no stock book entry is it possible to get some meaningful information by ordering a letter? The real reason I bought the gun was to own a piece of history and to pass it to my grandson someday.

Thanks again and when possible I'll post some pictures to see if your assessment of condition agrees with mine.

Dean Romig · 02-04-2014, 08:57 AM

The issue with the safety could also be the result of someone over-tightening the rear screw in the lower tang or trigger plate. A thin shim between the tang and the wood could relieve the pressure on the safety mechanism if that is the problem.

Bill Murphy · 02-04-2014, 09:14 AM

I have bought guns that had not been fired for years and the safety slide responded to some penetrating oil worked under the slide and working the slide back and forth. You are not likely to get interesting historical information from the order book entry on a VH 12 gauge.

Pa SxS · 02-04-2014, 01:19 PM

Gary, order book information will give you who the gun was sold to, date it was ordered, date it was shipped, the grade, barrel steel and length, grip configuration, sometimes the stock dimensions and weight, and lastly the price. Sometimes you'll see special instructions like trigger pull, butt treatment, engraved shield, chokes, etc. The stock book, by itself, will give you barrel steel and grade, grip type, stock dimensions, weight, and if your lucky chokes.

The best thing is to have both stock and order book for the gun. You must realize that low grade guns were usually sold to hardware stores or sporting good stores. Sometimes hundreds of guns on one order to the larger sporting goods stores. Is it worth it? That's up to you.