Brass Shell Loading:

[Bruce P Bruner]

"Are the two brass cylinders in front of the funnel brass re-sizers?"

Yes they are sizing cylinders, a 12, a 16 and a 20. The 12 gauge one when inverted supports a 16 gauge brass shell rim for pounding in primers with a flat dowel and a mallet. I also prefer Old Eynsford, more zip and cleaner burning.

My two sons and I enjoyed some rifle bench time and "blowing some smoke".
If you look closely you can see the shot column.

[jeffery c]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30402043040...sAAOSwm25glEh7

Parker Bros. Number 29 loading tool: Do you happen to know how does this thing work? Do you use something similar?

[Bruce P Bruner]

Originally Posted by jefferyconnor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30402043040...sAAOSwm25glEh7

Parker Bros. Number 29 loading tool: Do you happen to know how does this thing work? Do you use something similar?

The cylinder fits over the shell case, the the round knob rod pushes the over powder wad into the case. Then you push in the vegetable cushion wad. It's a very rare loading implement but other than the Parker Bros. nostalgia factor it's hardly necessary. I have one but I don't use it. The over powder wad and cushion wad easily press in the hull first with your thumb and and then use an ordinary dowel over the wad column with 90lbs. pressure. The powder doesn't necessarily need compression although all of the air must be squeezed(forced) out.
I couldn't verify any Parker nomenclature on the tool, although it could be a Parker tool. I really don't know. I do know the Wad Guide in my photo is not a Parker Bros. branded tool.

[jeffery c]

Originally Posted by Bruce P Bruner

The cylinder fits over the shell case, the the round knob rod pushes the over powder wad into the case. Then you push in the vegetable cushion wad. It's a very rare loading implement but other than the Parker Bros. nostalgia factor it's hardly necessary. I have one but I don't use it. The over powder wad and cushion wad easily press in the hull first with your thumb and and then use an ordinary dowel over the wad column with 90lbs. pressure. The powder doesn't necessarily need compression although all of the air must be squeezed(forced) out.
I couldn't verify any Parker nomenclature on the tool, although it could be a Parker tool. I really don't know. I do know the Wad Guide in my photo is not a Parker Bros. branded tool.

It does say “Parker Bros. No. 29 12” on it if you look close at the listing pictures.
I offered the fellow $75 as the listing closed with no bids.

I’m interested in loading low volume brass shells for hunting. I have a wanted ad on this site if you happen to have any cast off or extra brass reloading items. I’m looking at loading 2 9/16” shells for my hammer twelves and 3 1/2” for my 10 NID Mag. I have a good supply of black for the twelves and want to load smokeless for the ten. Any advice here or by PM would be appreciated!

[Richard Flanders]

I have the knob end of a seating tool like Bruces and the chromed guide. The dowel end disappeared years ago and doubled as a primer punch and a wad seater. You just pulled it out of the knob and turned it end for end depending upon what you were doing. I used it and the hand crank crimpers for the first reloading of paper shells I did in the middle 60's.

[Paul Harm]

Because the primers are so small [ rifle or pistol ] you'll need a deprime tool made up that keeps the pin to knock out the primer centered very good. That pin is quite a bit smaller in diameter than what we're used to with the 209 primers. If you're going to use nitro powders in a brass case where you're not crimping you'll need about a 1/4" of brass above the OS card for glue to adhere to for enough resistance for a good powder burn. The reason I sold all those Magtecks was I didn't know back then what it took when using smokeless powders. Some form of enough resistance is necessary to get good loads. I now use a hot glue gun when loading 444 Marlins for my 410s.It's quick and easy to get enough glue for a good load. JMHO

[Paul Harm]

Jeffery, other than a pin centered good enough in a wooden dowel for depriming, all you'll need is a dowel to push wads down and a glue gun. For seating the primer I just set one on a piece of metal flat stock, put the shell on it with a dowel in it to wack with a hammer. You'll also need a little stand or a hole drilled in the work bench for the primer to drop into when depriming. Wads for brass shells can be bought from BPI or circlefly.com. They need to be one size larger because the brass is thinner than a regular paper or plastic shell. Use only fiber wads for BP. Good luck.

[Bruce P Bruner]

Paul is correct. My only deviation is using Sodium Silicate to seal the over shot card. Using a syringe I cover the entire card. This provides resistance for a faster more complete burn and ensures the shell is waterproof. For 16 gauge about 8 drops is enough.

[Jay Oliver]

Bruce, I enjoyed seeing your pictures and hearing how you reload brass shotshells. I always enjoy doing this and have had fun experimenting with loads and wad to find the best pattern. While I usually just shoot clay targets, I do like hunting with brass shells as well. Very easy to make a bismuth shell for waterfowl hunting too. Thanks for the pictures and starting this thread!

Jeff, I saw the Parker loading tool on Ebay as well. I thought about as well, but thought it was a little to pricy just like you. You really don’t “need” any of those(though I like collecting them), you can get by with a wooden dowel and a small nail to knock out the used primers. There are few ways to prime the shells and you can find cappers on Ebay. For the 12 gauge I like the shells from Track of the Wolf, but use Magtechs too. For 10s I used the Track of the Wolf ones. Here is a great video from Midway on loading 10 gauge brass shells. I will note, I have found I get better patterns with felt wads or I will split a ½ inch fiber wad in two and just use half of it. I also use Duco Cement to glue the overshot cards. Here the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI47bl2h0cU

I would love to put together a Parker hammer gun, brass shell black powder hunt this fall…

[jeffery c]

I got 39 of these brass cases to today from Richard!
A few questions come to mind as I get started:
Should I anneal the necks? How do you remove the factory roll crimp? Should I anneal the ends and use a plumb bob tapped in to remove the roll crimp. Lastly, what primers and wads should I use? — Looks like large rifle and 11 gauge, is that right? Should I use magnum primers for black powder?
Thanks!
By the way, I remember when they used to sell water glass at the grocery store. I never knew what for, maybe canning, or something to do with sealing cardboard boxes?