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Unread 04-05-2014, 07:08 AM   #21
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Bill Zachow
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This thread reminds me of a time over 40 years ago when I was in a gun shop in Syracuse that had an 1897 "brush" model Winchester. A "brush" came with a 26" barrel with cylinder choke. The gun was in pretty nice shape, considering it was over 70 years old at the time, except, the barrel assembly was loose. The dealer wanted $100 for the gun. I told him I could only pay $50, because the big wiggle in the gun. We settled at $60. After completing the purchase transaction, I asked him for a small screw driver. In about a minute, I had the forend off and the barrel lock screw and notch out. Turned the ring, put the notch and screw back in, and the gun was as tight as a drum. The dealer looked amazed and said, "you must be a gunsmith". I laughed as I went out the door. Still have the gun and it is deadly on partridges when I see one. O, also there were no background checks. Gave the guy the $60 and walked down the street carrying the gun. Today, probably be stopped/arrested by the cops.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 09:41 AM   #22
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My 97 Brush is the most useful 97 I own. I have a Cody letter proving it as an original Brush. They seem to be pretty scarce, even more so in high condition.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 10:24 AM   #23
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I like them also along with the two barrel set
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Unread 04-05-2014, 10:51 AM   #24
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Russ: I can't help with your question but did look at a Model 12 stainless 20 Ga. That was made I believe in 1927 and found it to be needing some restoration at the last Gun Show. Thomas
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Unread 04-05-2014, 03:20 PM   #25
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My 20 gauge Model 12 has one of these on the end.



The 20 is on the bottom. The 16 with the replacement magazine tube is in the middle, the gun on top is a 1923 Nickle Steel gun.

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Unread 04-05-2014, 03:40 PM   #26
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If I understand your reassembly problem you cannot get the bolt to seat forward so you can reassemble. I have my M12 trap gun do this on occasion. Some just don't want to lock forward with a thumb push. If you cannot get it to seat take the stock off (it is simple). There is a hole in the rear of the frame that you can put a rod through push the bolt forward and seat it. Last time I used a chop stick.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 03:50 PM   #27
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Check this out: nickel steel with factory solid ribs on both barrels with proof marks rolled to the side.
http://www.gunauction.com/buy/127098...n-cyl.mfd-1951
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Unread 04-05-2014, 05:16 PM   #28
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Steve's choke device is a Pachmayr Power Pac. I have them on a 28 gauge Model 12 and on a Model 42 skeet.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 10:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Murphy View Post
Steve's choke device is a Pachmayr Power Pac. I have them on a 28 gauge Model 12 and on a Model 42 skeet.
That's right! I have all three choke inserts, called close, mid and long range. The shot has to make a jump of about an inch from the muzzle to the choking tube. I sometimes wonder if the shot cup might turn a bit and bind in the throat of the cage. Hasn't happened yet.

I wish it was easy to find replacement Winchester barrels for model 12's and 97's. Used to be so, but no longer and Hastings, as far as I can tell, is only making rifled barrels.
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Unread 04-05-2014, 11:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Grims View Post
If I understand your reassembly problem you cannot get the bolt to seat forward so you can reassemble. I have my M12 trap gun do this on occasion. Some just don't want to lock forward with a thumb push. If you cannot get it to seat take the stock off (it is simple). There is a hole in the rear of the frame that you can put a rod through push the bolt forward and seat it. Last time I used a chop stick.
After I've had my morning coffee tomorrow I'll sit down with the gun and tackle it. I put Art Pepper on Pandora to sooth my nerves while I struggle. I've done it before and have not had to remove the stock....yet.
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