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Having a blast loading short 10; a few questions. (long and boring)
Old 12-03-2017, 03:23 PM   #1
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Default Having a blast loading short 10; a few questions. (long and boring)

I have reloaded shotshells and metallic cartridges for 50 years. I recently acquired a nice Parker GH 3 frame. I wanted a 10 gauge and after looking for quite a while bought this one because it had stock dimensions that actually fit me rather than the majority I see that I would have to adapt to. Got the necessary gear together as recommended in the excellent 10 ga reloading thread and I've had more fun setting things up the and loading hulls. Took the first batch out yesterday and nailed 24 out of 25 in a quick round of trap. Very pleased with the results and with those heavy 32" damascus barrels your follow through is automatic! It really smokes targets and the snowstorm from the fiber wad is kind of cool.

I'm loading 19 gr of red dot in Fed hulls shortened to 2 7/8 with the xacto and dowel homemade trimmer, WW 209 primer, Rem SP10 wad, one 16 ga .125 card and .5 fiber wad according to Craig Larter's recipe (thanks Craig).

A couple of questions:
1) Does everyone skiv their hulls after shortening and how much. I used a ballistic products power skiver and put about 1/8" bevel at the mouth. Seemed to work OK.

2} I followed Craig's load for Fed Hull, SP10 wad, 19 red dot and 1 1/8 7 1/2 but only had room for one .125 card instead of 2 and a .5 fiber wad instead of a .70. Wonder why there would be such a difference? If I loaded everything as listed it would fill the hull to the top.

3) I used a Ballistic products brass crimp starter as it looked more substantial for new never-been-crimped hulls. It doesn't spin like the plastic crimp starter on the sizemaster so I had to be very careful indexing previously fired hulls.

4) I loaded powder and the plastic SP10 wad, removed the shell and placed the card then fiber wad, then put the shell back in the machine for the shot. Do most do it that way or pre-load the card and fiber wad in the SP10 and seat them all at once?

Thanks for any answers you guys may have and for all the knowledge about this you have already taken the time to share on the forum. Most helpful.

Best
Tim
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:11 PM   #2
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I made a typo in my post. It should be 2x
.125 card wads and 1x.070 card was not .70. Sorry for screwing up I will correct my post.
I do not skive. I tried the skiving tool but it did little.
I load the card wads in the bottom of the sp10 before inserting the wad into the hull.
I use the gold crimp tool and find it the best.
I also lightly spray the wads with dry type case lub to make was insertion easier in the Fed. Hulls.
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:37 PM   #3
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Thanks Craig. Makes sense now about the wads. I'm going to try not skiving and see how it works for me.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:20 PM   #4
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I cut my hulls on a bandsaw so after wards I generally scrape around the inside edge with my pocket knife . I used to use a Dremel tool but that was a PITA , I suppose what I do wouldn't be called "skiving" and I'm not sure it's needed even . But I do it after cutting the hulls none the less . I just wish I had a PW LS1000 or even a converted 9000 , Grabber or 650 to load my 10 gauge shot loads .
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:38 AM   #5
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I made a tapered wood plug just the right size, it’s fixed to the end of a 1/4 rod. Spin it in the lathe or drill press it heats up the plastic and re forms like a fresh uncrimped hull. It’s a fair amount of trouble to cut down hulls, getting a few more loads out of them worth the little effort it takes to run the plug . It handles the skiving job too.

Use them for 16 & 10 were I am forced to use many Cheddite hulls. Ballistic products tool is tapered, one size fits all and not very effective in my opinion.

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Old 12-04-2017, 09:41 AM   #6
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I do not skive the trimmed hulls. I seat the wad and add the filler by hand then add shot. I also use a lubed fiber filler to cut down on the bits that can blow back into your face when shooting into the wind. There is still some debris but greatly reduced and is very fine and light so it won't blow back into you. 19.0 grains of Red Dot with 1 & 1/8 oz. shot, best load ever for a light ten. on the clays course.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:50 AM   #7
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On the loading, I use a mixed set of tools. Size and reprime on a PW 375, knocking the primed case out with a custom knock out rod that is cupped to avoid the fresh primer inside. Cases set up in a loading block. Then charge, insert the SP 10, then the fiber filler wads, last drop th shot, all on the PW 375, die removed hull sitting on a disk inside the sizer holder. Cases back to the loading block.

Last step crimp on a MEC 600 that delivers a nice crimp. It does not re size well at all. Reason for using the 375. Be better to do everything on one press and if I ever find another 375 cheap will alter it for dedicated short 10.

Little lube can help loading a lot. Some Imperial die wax on your fingers wiped on anything sticking makes the job easy. Only if it’s needed, some wads are hard to insert and cause buckled cases.

19 Red Dot 1 1/8 shot is a great load.

William
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:18 AM   #8
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I use a singe edge razor rather than a exacto tool - cheaper. I don't skive and have loaded many cut down 12 and 10ga. Also the plastic start crimp tool works just fine, never found a reason for the brass one. I load with a Mec 600 with a 12ga drop tube. I found the 16ga filler wad would wad to go up in the 10ga drop tube too easy. It still will with the 12ga tube if your not careful. I first seat the plastic wad, then LIGHTY seat the filler wad. I have never found a need for wax. A Grabber could be turned into a 10ga press. If I remember correctly there are two washers under the carrier plate, or maybe one on top and one under. Anyways, they must be made smaller to allow the 10ga shell to locate properly. Also, the area where the shell goes in the carrier must be ground bigger to accept the 10ga shell and you'll get mighty close to grinding into the primer hole. There's room, you just have to be careful. I converted one, but being a brain dead old fart couldn't get it work because I was trying to load 2 5/8" shells and there wasn't enough adjustment for the short shells. Probably could have with a bit more fooling around but I got tired of it and quit. That's my take on the 10ga reloading. I use just Mec's, and they seem to work just fine for resizing, crimping , or anything. Good luck. Sounds like you're doing just fine - and your shooting sounds real good.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:23 PM   #9
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Issue with my MEC 600 was bending rims on Cheddite hulls. Could have solved it by not using cheddites or perhaps replacing the ring on the MEC. I do think you need to size if function is critical. Have 2 PWs easy to set one up for the 10 From scratch new press I think a MEC Size master probably the way to go . Separate size prime charge seat routine is the way I load Metalic & way I am programmed

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