Roll crimping Federal paper

[John Farrell, Charter Member #33]

Addition to my post about standing the rewaxed hulls in a 170 degree oven to allow the excess wax to flow off the hull. Stand the hull mouth down in this operation. I stand mine in a 50 shell plastic holder from the MTM Molded Products Co. Put the shell holder in the oven, then put the hulls into the device and turn on the oven to 170. You only need 10 minutes or so in the oven. JF

[Hammer Fan]

Re-waxed a bunch of my Federal paper hulls last night, and the curling iron technique worked perfectly. I found it easiest to hold the handle of the curling iron in my work bench vise that way I had two hands free to handle the hulls and wax. I pushed the hull onto the curling iron with my right hand and slowly rotated it while holding the edge of the wax block against it with my left hand. The "Gulf Wax" blocks are about a 1/2" wide and are the perfect width to treat the area of the hull affected by the previous fold crimp.

After a few seconds of rotating the hull with the wax held against it, the wax would melt into the paper. After doing a few hulls you quickly learn just how much wax to melt onto the hull, it actually goes fairly quickly. I let a few cool and tried them in my bench turnover tool. It produced beautiful roll crimps! Now onto loading them up with black powder.

[John Farrell, Charter Member #33]

Before you get the hulls reloaded, try them in your gun to assure that they are going in easily. Too much wax on the hull and they get sticky in the chamber. That is the reason for oven warming them mouth down to allow any excess wax to flow off them and be absorbed by the paper towel they are standing on.

Wait a minute, I forgot to mention the paper towel in my previous diatribes on rewaxing. OOPS!

[Hammer Fan]

Will do John. Thanks for posting the technique on how to re-wax these hulls, it works like a charm.

[Steve Havener]

Originally Posted by Forrest Grilley

Re-waxed a bunch of my Federal paper hulls last night, and the curling iron technique worked perfectly.

Forest the curling iron works great to "re-condition" plastic hulls too.

It works especially good to open up the mouths or Remington 16 gauge game loads which uses a cheaper grade of plastic than the Express, Gun Club and other premium Remington hulls.

[John Farrell, Charter Member #33]

OK - this is positively my last comment on roll crimping. After this, everything I have worked out in my 80 years has been published, and hopefully, the world is a better place.

When you start roll crimping the plastic hulls, it pays to have the roll crimper in your hand drill or the old fashioned clamp-on style a little warm. I keep a propane torch handy, flaming of course, and I apply a little flame to warm up the crimping tool. When you hit the plastic hull it warms quickly and will fold over more better.

'nuff said. JF

[Keith Parrish]

NO JOHN FARRELL YOU CAN'T RETIRE YET.

It took alot of trial and error before figuring that out. I then got the wifes blow dryer to start things off and gave me enuff heat to heat my ole roll crimper.

You should post more and spread the knowledge!!!!

[John Farrell, Charter Member #33]

As a result of the overwhelming appeal from the roll crimping fraternity, I am going to divulge the absolute last roll crimping secret that has been held close to the vest for many years by myself and certain members of my coterie in whom I trust my most cherished secrets.

To avoid the open flame to heat the roll crimping tool, when dealing with loaded hulls, the alternative is to have an ordinary household electric iron - heated - lying on its side. Position the hand drill with the nose of the roll crimper against the heated flat side or just lay the roll crimper on its side on the iron while getting the next hull into position for the crimping operation. That will provide sufficient heat to start the plastic hulls rolling into a fine crimp. JF

[charlie cleveland]

thanks john for the tips... nothing like using anothers trade secrets saves a lot ofwasted efforts on things i dabble at... thanks charlie

[Don Kaas]

Actually, as in most things since the 19th century, "there is a tool for this". Texan made a deprimer/resizer/electrically heated reconditioner for paper shells. I bought mine on eBay and it worked great the few times I used it with Federal papers. I bought because of the problem you described when using my hand operated roll crimpers.